95 Windstar Front End Problem

uzzo2 · #1 11-26-2012, 04:33 PM

Man where do I begin guys? These vehicles seem to have more problems than Carter has liver pills. I've been feeling some slop in the steering wheel. I did both wheel bearings a while back. What a job that was when you don't have a press. I put it up in the air a little while ago and was thinking outer tie rod ends. But no, I can move the left side about 1/4" and the right side a good 1/2".

It's coming from the inners, but I can't tell if it has something to do with the rack or if it's the inner tie rod ends. I've read a couple threads about the rack and inners. Is the rack prone to getting slop in it or is it usually the inner tie rod ends?

Windstartled · #2 11-26-2012, 08:00 PM

I didn't know you could replace bearings on first-generation Winnies, do they use a different hub than second-generation models? On my own '00 bearings are sealed and can't be replaced without replacing the whole hub.

uzzo2 · #3 11-27-2012, 06:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Windstartled

I didn't know you could replace bearings on first-generation Winnies, do they use a different hub than second-generation models? On my own '00 bearings are sealed and can't be replaced without replacing the whole hub.

Yeah, I wish mine was that way, it would've been a lot less trouble. You have to take the entire hub assy. off, press the old bearings out and then press the new ones in. The problem for me was that I don't have a bench press. So I had to remove both assys., load them up in my truck and take them way across town to a friends place that does have a press so I could do it. It's a real PITA let me tell ya!

12Ounce · #4 11-27-2012, 06:51 AM

The inners wear more, but the rack teeth wear some ... and when rack teeth wear things get dangerous really quickly! I vote for a rack assembly replacement ... even though it is a bit of a job. Tip: the rack is held in place by splined bolts ... they must be driven out, you can't turn them!

AutoZone. I'm on my second or third one at 350k miles.

uzzo2 · #5 11-27-2012, 06:55 AM

Something I forgot to mention in the first post was that it's been wearing the front tires on the edges. That would lead me to believe that it is a tie rod issue. It also makes a squeaking noise when turning the wheel back and forth. It's been doing that for a real long time now. I have no idea what would be causing that.

12Ounce · #6 11-27-2012, 06:59 AM

....as I wrote above: the rack! It includes both inners.

uzzo2 · #7 11-27-2012, 06:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 12Ounce

The inners wear more, but the rack teeth wear some ... and when rack teeth wear things get dangerous really quickly! I vote for a rack assembly replacement ... even though it is a bit of a job. Tip: the rack is held in place by splined bolts ... they must be driven out, you can't turn them!

AutoZone. I'm on my second or third one at 350k miles.

Hey man, how's my neighbor from Hotlanta doing these days? I was hoping you were going to tell me that all it needed was a little JB weld and all would be well.

Windstartled · #8 11-27-2012, 11:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uzzo2

Something I forgot to mention in the first post was that it's been wearing the front tires on the edges. That would lead me to believe that it is a tie rod issue. It also makes a squeaking noise when turning the wheel back and forth. It's been doing that for a real long time now. I have no idea what would be causing that.

I'm with 12oz on this one, sounds like a worn rack. But the squeak in itself could also be caused by the strut mount bushings, happens mostly with the polyurethane variety during parking maneuvers. This can be annoying but it doesn't affect driveability.

uzzo2 · #9 11-28-2012, 08:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Windstartled

I'm with 12oz on this one, sounds like a worn rack. But the squeak in itself could also be caused by the strut mount bushings, happens mostly with the polyurethane variety during parking maneuvers. This can be annoying but it doesn't affect driveability.

Could be, but everything I've read so far about the rack being worn complained of spots in the turning radius where the steering wheel would catch or bind. I also read about the seals leaking on them, mine isn't doing any of that. I read that the squeaking is usually caused by the lower control arm bushings. This may be the same thing you're talking about since it does connect to the strut. I can get the whole control arm with new bushings and ball joints for $20.00 a piece. It would only be about 40 or 50 bucks more to replace the rack instead of just the tie rods.

I'll let the wife decide since it's hers anyway. I swore I wasn't going to put another one of my wrenches on the damned thing after I did the rear brakes and wheel cylinders a month or so ago. I HATE working on that POS. Hey 12 ounce, can I just bring it to you? I'll bring the beer and the aspirin.

12Ounce · #10 11-28-2012, 09:46 AM

If one waits until the rack wears 'til the point of binding (I've been there!), things are very dangerous. Can you imagine how little binding it would take to keep you from steering away from a head-on collision? I tend to err on the side of "replacing too early" ... if such a thing can be.

As much as I love to work on a Windstar (peals of laughter heard in background!), I'm gonna pass on your kind invitation!

A reman rack and pinion, complete with new inner tie rod joints, will set you back around $100 - $130 before taxes. I would replace outers at the same time, maybe include anti-sway bushings and links also ... and be done with it.

uzzo2 · #11 11-28-2012, 09:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 12Ounce

If one waits until the rack wears 'til the point of binding (I've been there!), things are very dangerous. Can you imagine how little binding it would take to keep you from steering away from a head-on collision? I tend to err on the side of "replacing too early" ... if such a thing can be.

As much as I love to work on a Windstar (peals of laughter heard in background!), I'm gonna pass on your kind invitation!

A reman rack and pinion, complete with new inner tie rod joints, will set you back around $100 - $130 before taxes. I would replace outers at the same time, maybe include anti-sway bushings and links also ... and be done with it.

Damn, can't blame a guy for trying can ya? Maybe she'll come up with the extra dough and pay someone else to do it. Back to reality now, I'll be the dumb bastard that gets stuck with it. WTH was I thinking? But hey, if you live on the east side of Atlanta and I do it at night when everything is quiet. You'll be able to hear me cursing all the way up there. It'll be cheap entertainment, enjoy!!!

scubacat · #12 11-28-2012, 10:04 AM

I live in NE Atlanta - let me know how it goes. Right before I took over maintenance, a shop changed the rack in our 02. I figure someday it'll have ot be done again. I hate taking off steel lines with the flare wrenches, though. Especially those %$#@ing brake lines!

uzzo2 · #13 11-28-2012, 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scubacat

I live in NE Atlanta - let me know how it goes. Right before I took over maintenance, a shop changed the rack in our 02. I figure someday it'll have ot be done again. I hate taking off steel lines with the flare wrenches, though. Especially those %$#@ing brake lines!

Thanks, will do my friend, I'm going to make her get out there with me this time around. If for nothing else than a tool gopher. I had spine surgery on my neck at St. Joesph's up there on the north side in 2008. It just kills me to be doing this kind of stuff these days.

scubacat · #14 11-28-2012, 10:17 AM

The rack doesn't LOOK too bad to do on this van (i.e. the one on my camry looks way, WAY worse if I ever had to change it out.) It looks like there might just be enough room to slide it out through the left wheel well without having to take off too much else.

I'm anxious to hear how it goes. Are you going to change the high pressure line while you're at it?

uzzo2 · #15 11-28-2012, 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scubacat

The rack doesn't LOOK too bad to do on this van (i.e. the one on my camry looks way, WAY worse if I ever had to change it out.) It looks like there might just be enough room to slide it out through the left wheel well without having to take off too much else.

I'm anxious to hear how it goes. Are you going to change the high pressure line while you're at it?

Haven't thought that far ahead yet, things are pretty tight right now money wise. I helped a friend do one on his 93 camry many years ago when I lived in Newton county. I remember it well, it was a nightmare.

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