Ford Windstar is killing me

[getupkid2137]

If it is the sliding door, you can bypass the door ajar sensor by cutting the two black wires (top and bottom) just after the 4-pin sensor on the front of the sliding door and connecting them together. The worst part is getting the panel off the door, use a screwdriver, or as I did, my ice scraper tool. You do not have to remove the whole panel, only the front 1/3, enough room that you can pull out the harness attached to the front sensor. You won't be able to detach the sensor so instead just cut away a piece of the protective shell. Cut the 2 black wires and expose the wires. Connect the 2 black wires closest to the 4-pin sensor. Make sure this is secure, otherwise it will not last, tape them together and put them back into the harness. Tape the 2 loose ends off and tuck them back in. Now just tape the harness so that it is sealed from moisture. Replace the panel and door handle. Now the computer will get a signal that the door is closed as soon at the 4-pin on the door comes in to contact with the 4 pads on the van. Forget WD-40, that's only a temporary fix and only if you really like driving with the smell of WD-40. Just make sure the door is closed completely every time you drive.

-d

[danshargel]

WD-40 did the trick for me. Was the passenger side door on my '99 Windstar. Sprayed some lube in there and closed the door. Easiest "repair" of my life.

[danshargel]

Forgot to mention that you can determine which door is causing the lights to stay on by inserting the key in the ignition and opening and closing each door. The one that doesn't beep when you open it is the offender.

[serge_saati]

necroposting?

just kidding

[tomj76]

I did this on one of my '96 doors recently. I took the latch mechanism out to do this.

I also noticed the post on this thread suggesting that WD-40 is not the best cure for a "bad switch".

In my case, the reason the Door Ajar light was staying lit was because the switch was not closing (front passenger door). The mechanism was sluggish, as the original grease had degraded. Because of the sluggish mechanism it was never pressing on the switch hard enough to make it close.

The WD-40 cleaned out some of the grease and softened it up somewhat. I think I added a bit of new grease after the WD-40 cleaning.

Switch cleaner is the right choice when the problem with a switch is dirty contacts, but in this case it wasn't the switch, but the mechanism responsible for closing it.

[serge_saati]

I already had this problem with my 99, the right door ajar.
So, I turn off the dome light with the interior light switch. In the 96, it doesn't have an interior switch, so it's annoying. The best thing is remove the interior light fuse until the bad switch is replaced. Or solder the 2 door contact pins at bottom (pin 3 and 4) of the door connector end.

If you remove the fuse, jump a wire in I/P fuse box between wiper fuse (protected end) to the interior light fuse socket pin (interior lights circuit end), so that power windows can work.

[larosa57lr]

I used the WD40 on all theswitches and that did the trick, thanks to all whocontribute to the forum, one note also is tocheck the sound (small beep) that will help o troubleshoot the faulty switch

[BDuross]

Ford Windstar Limited – Bizarre Electrical System Issues

I purchased an 03 Windstar Limited as a second vehicle about four years ago. Every now and then the interior lights would start flashing on and off – by themselves! Very strange. Once the vehicle was shut off and restarted the lights stopped flashing. I did notice that the flashing interior light syndrome always seemed to occur when it was raining or very damp. Temperature did not seem to be a factor. Since the occasional flashing on and off of the interior was lights seemed a relatively minor issue, we chalked it up to the ghost of old Henry Ford just having a little fun with us.

It did occur to me, however, that the cause of the problem had to be a door switch or sensor that was being affected by moisture and/or and an accumulation of dirt. This could produce a signal that the vehicle’s onboard computer might interpret as an open door. The most likely candidates were the multiple contacts on the power sliding side doors. These contacts, there are 7 on a Windstar Limited, are open to the elements and can easily become damp and/or dirty. So, the next several times that the interior lights began to flash on and off, I simple cleaned the sliding door contacts. A little isopropyl alcohol on a clean cloth and the careful cleaning of each of the contacts usually kept old Henry’s ghost at bay for a month or two.

Recently, however, this minor annoyance turned into a major electrical issue. Out of the blue the battery kept discharging. When this first happened, I noticed that the interior lights had remained on. After charging the battery, at which point the engine started without hesitation, I shut the engine off, exited the vehicle, and locked the doors. The interior lights, however, did not shut off. Even when I turned the interior lights off using the timer wheel on the dash, the interior lights stayed on until I used the remote to lock the doors. I discovered later, when again the battery had almost completely discharged, that although the dome lights were off, the foot lights had remained on.

The alternator had recently been replaced but once the engine was started the battery recharged. So, the charging system itself was not an issue. Being that the battery is original (yes, it’s 10 years old) I did suspect that it may be on its last legs. I removed the battery, cleaned the posts and terminals, recharged it and performed a load test. The battery tested good. I also again thoroughly cleaned all of the sliding door electrical contacts. The battery is no longer discharging and the interior lights function exactly as they should.

The Bottom Line

I suspect that most of the problems associated with the Windstar’s electrical systems may indeed be the result of misinformation being provided to the vehicles on-board monitoring systems by poor sliding side door electrical contacts. So here’s what I suggest for those folks who are experiencing the flashing interior light syndrome and/or a battery that keeps discharging:

1 - Remove the battery from the vehicle
2 - Leave the battery out of the vehicle for at least 2 hours. This should clear any false codes or light settings that may have been prompted by poor sliding door connections.
3 - Thoroughly clean the battery posts and battery cable terminals
4 - Charge the battery (If possible have it load tested as well)
5 - Clean all of the sliding door electrical contacts (both the spring loaded contacts in the doors and the stationary contacts on the door pillars).
6 - Reinstall the battery
7 - Start the engine and check voltage across the battery posts (should be at least 13.2 volts or higher)
8 - You will need to reset the information display (language, units of measure, fuel mileage, outside temp, etc.) as your original settings will have lost when the battery was removed.

No guarantee folks but this worked on my Windstar. Good luck.

BD

[12Ounce]

I'm glad Ford put those plunger switches on the front of the sliding door. Gives folks something to do. To muse on. Those plunger switches have to do with radio speakers and the door lock.

(The door ajar switch is at the rear of the door opening!)

[Windstartled]

Originally Posted by Dngrsone

Since this dialog has been resurrected[...]

Resurrected is the word, this thread is so ancient it speaks of those blessed days when electrical issues actually had to do with dirty switches instead of computers infested with alien bugs like it is now.

[Seizer]

My Windstar is killing me too. So after about two years we got the brake light, no problems noticed, shortly after abs light. Abs light only seems to come on when weather is above 70 Fahrenheit. Another year goes by and now have the Tpms always lit. Another three months down the road speedometer whacks out. If its not bouncing around its indicating roughly half speed of actual speed. Thank you GPS for more accurate speed. Travel now six more months. Power locks half the time work on any of the doors. Yea! Sometimes they will unlock but most times not. Skip forward two more months and cruise control doesn't work. Wee does it get any better than this?

This is mostly a rant. Got the cruise fixed. Gave up on abs, brake light and Tpms.
It's 2002 SE model by the way. So unless anyone has some suggestions on how to drive gremlins away. I will keep dealing with the idiocy of the Windstar.

[serge_saati]

Originally Posted by Seizer

My Windstar is killing me too. So after about two years we got the brake light, no problems noticed, shortly after abs light. Abs light only seems to come on when weather is above 70 Fahrenheit. Another year goes by and now have the Tpms always lit. Another three months down the road speedometer whacks out. If its not bouncing around its indicating roughly half speed of actual speed. Thank you GPS for more accurate speed. Travel now six more months. Power locks half the time work on any of the doors. Yea! Sometimes they will unlock but most times not. Skip forward two more months and cruise control doesn't work. Wee does it get any better than this?

This is mostly a rant. Got the cruise fixed. Gave up on abs, brake light and Tpms.
It's 2002 SE model by the way. So unless anyone has some suggestions on how to drive gremlins away. I will keep dealing with the idiocy of the Windstar.

The ABS light could be caused by ABS sensors problems or leak of brake fluid on the ABS module.

For the brake warning light, check the brake fluid level and the brake switch of the master cylinder, that can be the cause of the brake warning light. It should not leak brake fluid. If there's fluid near the switch, you have to replace the Brake Pressure Differential Deactivation Switch also called speed control deactivation switch (SCDS). This issue can also cause problems to speedometer and ABS. Check also the hand brake. Engage the parking brake, and disengage it. The parking brake switch might not be full disactivated and turn the brake light on.

Windstar has a lot of problems with their power lock door actuators when they become old.

The speedometer is usually caused by a bad instrument cluster or front electronic module or the leak of brake fluid.

For the TPMS, try to reset the system and do a relearn. You should inflate all the tires at 35 psi (or more) at cold before reseting the system. The Windstar has indirect TPMS, so they work with ABS module and ABS wheel speed sensors. It works by measuring the difference in ratio of average speeds of each wheel when you drive straight at constant speed for a period of time. If there's a difference in average speed, it'll calculate the approximate tire pressure of the faster wheel which is under inflated. So if the ABS light is on, the TPMS will not work.

So you could have a problem with your ABS sensors or brake fluid leak on ABS module cause you have the ABS light and problem with TPMS.

[serge_saati]

I just edited my post because I correct the mistake with TPMS. In Windstar there's no tire presure sensors, it works with the ABS wheel speed sensors. It's an indirect TPMS.