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#16
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Re: B.r.m. H16 - 1/20 mfh
After the engine, we can add the whole rear suspension.
Here the P83: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Here the P115: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() The red arrows show were it's necessary to paint matt black to simulate holes. No great differences between the two cars, a part of those I wrote in the last post as to the painting of the rear suspension. Moreover, I painted Satin Red the damper of P83. |
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#17
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Re: B.r.m. H16 - 1/20 mfh
The P83 only, as you can see in this pic, had a covering of the engine and gearbox:
![]() MFH made this covering, nothing to say...: ![]() ![]() ...but this kit is the "1967 Belgian GP" version: ![]() as you can see in the above pic of Stewart at that GP, the engine cover is shorter, so the one of the kit has to be shortened (red arrow): ![]() so I cut the engine cover, also cutting the piece with the red arrows which would be used to glue the covering over the engine: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Here the hooks to keep in place the engine cover: ![]() ![]() On the P83 again, the engine head cover were connected to the oil tank with a clear yellow tube, one for each side (on P115 there was a stiff aluminium tube): ![]() So, as the instructions say, I made those connections: ![]() ![]() ![]() But, as wrote before, this is the 1967 Belgian GP: ![]() In the same pic of before, please, look at where that connection was. It is better showed in this pic on the P83 Stewart used as a spare at 1967 Italian GP: ![]() Therefore that connection has to be made in the right way: ![]() ![]()
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#18
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Re: B.r.m. H16 - 1/20 mfh
Someone could tell me why I had "5 stars" for this wip and suddenly they became "3"?
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#19
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Re: B.r.m. H16 - 1/20 mfh
Not convinced by the yellow tube over the engine of the P83, I sanded and washed it to make it closer to the real car:
![]() On the left before and on the right after the "treatment". Here the piece in place: ![]() I think it is better now. As I previously said I didn't like the tartan of the seats. I found another one which matches well of the Hiro one, I seem: ![]() So I scanned and printed it on a decal. Then one coat of Microscale Liquid Decal Film and a pair of coats of Matt Clear. After some washes, this is the final result: ![]() ![]() On the P115 I re-made the seat-belts since they were too large. It is not the same tartan of the real car yet, but closer to it than the Hiro one. |
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#20
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Re: B.r.m. H16 - 1/20 mfh
What else could we say? It's a great, clean and FAITHFUL build Edi!!!
Great work. I especially like the yellow tubes (clear plastic oil breather tubes in the real H16 engine) and the last version of the Tartan on the seat. Gab |
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#21
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Re: B.r.m. H16 - 1/20 mfh
Hi Gablet, many thanks for your nice words.
Here the fitting test of the cooling tubes of P83, where the red arrow shows that some adjustment is needed: ![]() So some sanding job has been done at A and B: ![]() Moreover, in my kit both the tubes were of the left side. So I inverted the bending of one of them to adapt it to the right side, but it was not long enough (red arrow): ![]() Never mind, that point will be covered by the hose. Here the final result: ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#22
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Re: B.r.m. H16 - 1/20 mfh
The windshield.
Very difficult but very well done by Hiro. Both the cars had two windshields each: one great surrounding the cockpit and a smaller one just in front of the steeringwheel. Moreover, that of the P83 had a hole corresponding to the cap of the tube which connected the tanks of each side: ![]() ![]() ![]() Well done the rear mirrors, too; three pieces eachone: the rear-mirror (painted with Alclad Matt Aluminium), the mirror and the plaque inside the windshield: ![]() ![]() Here the two cars together: ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#23
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Re: B.r.m. H16 - 1/20 mfh
Great looking pair! How are you getting the dirt in the treads of the tires? Pastels?
ianc |
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#24
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Re: B.r.m. H16 - 1/20 mfh
Thanks to Ianc for the compliments.
As to your question, the answer will be here. Tyres/Wheels The wheels were magnesium so I painted them with Alclad Magnesium. I know that the turned part of the wheel of the kit is nice to see as it is, but it is a mistake to leave it unpainted: ALL the wheel has to be painted with Magnesium, as you can see in these pics of the period: ![]() 1966 Press: tyres were Dunlop, whereas in 1967 they became GY, as you can see in the following pic made at 1967 Canadian GP: ![]() These are those of the P115 not washed yet: ![]() These are those of the P83, washed with Gunze Smoke Grey (H-95): ![]() ![]() The blue circle is the decal of the kit: it could be applied on the outside only or outside and inside. The name GY is the decal of the kit, that kind you put on the tyre and then put a drop of water on it: same of the other, outside only or both outside and inside. The side of the tyre was then painted with Alclad Matt Clear; then, with a finger, a wash with a black powder was done. The surface of the tyre which touches the track has been washed in this way: since I'm a smoker (unfortunately), I collected all the ashes I find into my ashtrey + the powder I found under my desk. Then, keeping each tyre between two fingers, I rolled it into that dirt. Finally, with a clean finger, I removed the excess. Here the final result on the P115: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() And here the P83: ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#25
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Re: B.r.m. H16 - 1/20 mfh
Thanks for the answer on the tire-weathering. Unfortunately (or fortunately perhaps), I can't directly replicate your method...
![]() ianc |
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#26
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Re: B.r.m. H16 - 1/20 mfh
Two words about the engine meshes.
The P115 had flat meshes on the trumpets of the engine, so I used those of the kit: ![]() ![]() For the P83 I began to prepare the meshes of the kit: ![]() ...but it was not necessary, since the real car had no meshes at Spa: ![]() it is the only pic I have on the side, but the first cylinder is visible and it is withouth mesh. So the P83 engine has to be leave with no meshes: ![]() Finally, to be remembered is the rear roll-bar of both thecars, since in the kit it is an unique piece; so few matt black has to be painted at the ends (red arrows)s:
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#27
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Re: B.r.m. H16 - 1/20 mfh
I was not yet satisfied by the tartan of the seat, so I looked for a tissue of Royal Stewart Tartan.
I found a site where they sell all kind of tartan and I bought the smallest one: ![]() The problem was to put it on the seats and the headrest: ![]() The one on the right and that on the middle are too large, so my choice was the one of the left. after cutting the red borders: ![]() Each band was then glued on the seats; horizontal for one seat and vertical for the other one: ![]() ![]() I did not like the seat with the horizontal bands, so I tried to put the other tissue and this is was happened: ![]() Yes, the tartan is too large, but (for me) it was better than before, even thinking that it will be covered by the seat-belts (which I re-made). This is the final version of the P115 cockpit: ![]() ![]() and this is the final version of the P83 cockpit: ![]() ![]() I'm not still satisfied, but it is much better than the previous two cocpits. |
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#28
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Re: B.r.m. H16 - 1/20 mfh
The nosecones.
P115: no problem, built OOB, a part of reducing the inside of the nosecone to let the fitting: ![]() On the left the green arrow shows the work already done; on the left the tickness of the original nosecone. Here the final result: ![]() ![]() P83: here Stewart at Spa: ![]() as you can see, inside the nosecone there were some flaps which Hiro didn't make. So I made a mould of the inside of the nosecone: ![]() Then I wrote with a pencil the shape of the flaps; the nosecone in the pic is that of the P83 of Spencer at Monza: ![]() With 0.2 mm plasticard I made the flaps: ![]() Here a fitting test: ![]() After painting with semigloss black and washed with dry aluminium, I glued the two parts inside the nosecone, in front of the mesh: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Here the two cars together:
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#29
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Re: B.r.m. H16 - 1/20 mfh
great models as usual Edgardo.
I cannot resist to make usual compliments to your artworks (deleted it at first, cause I know u dont like theme.. but I cannot resist now, sorry).Dont care too much about stars in wips,it is a long story here and in the italian forum.Who is a real modeller can see a nice model without considering the stars unknown given. The only thing I dont like in your finished models is the dirt inside tyre pattern. Imho it would be nicer to have just some little stones/debrits but that is just a personal taste. Bravo as usual, but u wellknow it.
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Paolo - LoveGT40 Modelworks website www.alsoldatino.com my YT channel : https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIp..._as=subscriber FB: https://www.facebook.com/alsoldatino |
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#30
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Re: B.r.m. H16 - 1/20 mfh
Many thanks Paolo: if you make compliments I'm very happy since you are a master!
I agree with you about the stars and, sincerely, I'd like they will be deleted. I made the tyres in that way since in all the pics of the time I could see the tyres were in those condition, even before a race. Many thanks again (and in advance for the next project )Edgardo |
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