92 Park Avenue Popping sound and maybe misfire?

[HotZ28]

If you got the RPM signal code, I would have the crank sensor replaced. Also, you will have the fans running, the fuel pump and several other relays and lights energized during the diagnostic mode. The crank sensor only cost about $30.00, and labor should run no more than $100.00 to $120.00. The standard labor manual list the job at 1.3 hrs labor time. Most shops are at $75.00 per hr. If you can still find a mechanic at $50.00 /hr, of course it would be less. It would be better to buy the sensor first, and give it to the mechanic, otherwise they charge you a markup on parts. Get a firm price quote for a turnkey job and then just labor.

[1534dover]

Friday's report: Crank sensor replaced by shop at a total cost of $128.89. No more code 17. However,
went to grocery store, bought soft drinks starter would turn over, but engine would not catch. Tried again, no luck. I thought why not depress accelerator
a little and try again. Engine caught and ran fine. I did not want to spend the afternoon in the hot grocery store parking lot so I quit experimenting and drove home. The engine ran whisper quiet, no problems. I my garage I looked for codes and found none. Once again, it wouldn't start without a little accelerator pressure first. The Owner's Manual says, "Don't push the accelerator pedal before starting you engine. In some other vehicles you might need to do this, but because of your vehicle's computer systems, you don't." Any thoughts?

[HotZ28]

I love it when a plan comes together!
I assume the mechanic disconnected the battery during the CS install. The PCM has to relearn the driving parameters every time you disconnect power. You need to drive it for awhile for things to reset. Drive just like you normally would, however do several full throttle pulls also, that allows resetting the full range,( idle to WOT). You may have a maladjusted TPS or idle air control solenoid. It also would not hurt to clean the throttle body with carb cleaner. First, just drive it and see what happens in a few days. I know what the book says about FI & PCM controlled cars not needing any throttle opening during starting, however that applies to near perfect condition of all control components.

[1534dover]

Once again thanks for your help. I asked if the mechanic disconnected the battery during the replacement and he did not. (I asked for and got the replaced sensor, just so I could be sure what he actually replaced.) I disconnected the battery as soon as I got home, tested to be sure the codes were gone and then did the driving I mentioned and rechecked after that. I will follow your advice and do some normal driving before doing anything else. I'm going to start an air conditioner thread. Hopefully you will be good enough to help out there as well.

[1534dover]

I've driven the 92 PA for a week now, with some WOT and the problem is wonderfully gone without anything extra needing to be done! Thanks!

[gspot32]

when you perform the test for troublecodes by jumping a and b on the connecter it closes the circuit causing all components to turn on thats normsl

[HotZ28]

Originally Posted by gspot32

when you perform the test for troublecodes by jumping a and b on the connecter it closes the circuit causing all components to turn on thats normsl

Not much purpose posting reply/advice in a 7-yr old thread! Look at the date of the first post.