1981 Eldorado Biarritz Electrical Issues

[foul_owl]

Lights have been flickering, console lights have been flickering and not working, stereo would turn off when engaging turn signal or windshield wipers, so clearly something screwy was going on.

Then the other night when I was driving home, the power went out completely. Lights won't work, car won't start, nothing electrical works. Today is the first chance I will have to look at it, but I am new to automotive work. Here is what I am going to do:

1. Measure battery voltage with multimeter
2. Measure if there are voltage drops across ground connections
3. Measure continuity of all fuses

What else should I test here? Any tips on figuring out where wires go/taking apart panels to access wiring harnesses? Could this just be a blown fuse? What about a fusible link? Is that a possibility? Is there a way I can start the car so I can bring it back to my driveway? What sort of electrical problem would cause the car to turn off entirely, and furthermore, how can I prevent this from happening in the future? I shudder thinking about this happening on the highway.

Thanks a ton!!

[gmtech1]

You're on the right track. Check battery cables/connections, check battery ground. If there is a power wire from the battery to a fuse block, check that. Check for power at fuse block. Also check cables to starter, and like you said, check for burned fusable links.

[maxwedge]

Originally Posted by gmtech1

You're on the right track. Check battery cables/connections, check battery ground. If there is a power wire from the battery to a fuse block, check that. Check for power at fuse block. Also check cables to starter, and like you said, check for burned fusable links.

Fusible links in the starter harness were common issues on this car, when I was a field trouble shooter for Cadillac back then we had plenty of problems with the 8-6-4, is yours still operating?

[foul_owl]

Alright, it is definitely the connection between the battery and the starter. I wiggle that cable around and the power returns, but it is super janky. I don't know if I can reach the starter though, I don't really have the time or experience. Especially if I have to take a bunch of other stuff off in order to reach the starter. Also I hate running into the problem where there is too much stuff in the way to be unable to even loosen the lug that the starter positive lead is attached to. What do you think, shop or DIY? If I go with a shop, how much should they charge me for this?

Thanks!!!

[foul_owl]

One more thing. When my car powered off the first time while I was driving, I got concerned when the brake wasn't stopping me as fast as it normally does, but I did something stupid: I shifted into park. I was probably going about 5 mph at that point, just rolling, but do you think it's possible my transmission got damaged?

Thanks!

[gmtech1]

You may have hurt the parking pawl a little, but as far as it shifting normally, it'll be ok. I doubt you notice anything wrong with the trans.

[foul_owl]

I managed to tightened the connection there, but it required a jack and jack stands.

Lights are still out on the console gauge cluster. I think I messed that up while trying to simply remove the stereo system. My issue now is that I just don't have time to go poking around here and figure out the gauge cluster lighting wire, although I do have a copy of the repair manual.

I want to take this car into a reputable shop and have a full checkup done and see what needs to happen on this car. Located in Seattle, WA.

Previous owner told me that he dropped in a new/rebuilt engine, how do I confirm that really happened?

Thanks!

[maxwedge]

With a receipt for the work!

[foul_owl]

The claim is that the work is self done. I didn't investigate too thoroughly because I had decided to buy this car no matter what. (has the only body style I like on a sub 50k car)

How do I identify the engine and be able to tell if it's stock?

[maxwedge]

Get the casting number off the block, the 81 was a one year only variable displacement 368 cu. in. engine. Throttle body injection and solenoids on the valves to achieve the 8-6-4 cylinder variation.

[foul_owl]

Having an issue now where this car will not upshift. Seems to be stuck in 1st or 2nd. Took it into a shop and they said the transmission needs to be rebuilt. ($2250) Should I get a second opinion here or just get this work done? Do these transmissions go bad often? Since the engine was replaced, think that could have caused issues there?

[maxwedge]

Get another shop to look at it, I believe there was a vacuum modulator involved , unless the shop already pinned down the diagnosis.

[foul_owl]

They already charged me for the diagnosis, but I have no clue if I can trust em or not. They said they needed a "speed sensor" to be replaced before they could diagnose. Problem is, if I take it to another shop it will be another $200 to diagnose. Plus I'm not trying to drive across town in 1st gear again lol. Any ideas if they are trying to screw me over here and what legal recourse I can take if they are?

[maxwedge]

Ok so they went from an overhaul to a speed sensor? So if they replace the speed sensor and it does not fix it then what are they going to do and I never heard of $200 to diagnose a trans no shift! Again no other way to tell if they are guessing or whatever other than another shop that is familiar with that trans.

[foul_owl]

Thanks for the help here Max! Basically before I brought it in I said I had two issues:
1. Console lights are out.
2. Automatic transmission doesn't upshift.

Before they started work they said its two hours shop rate to diagnose transmission. So replacing the speed sensor was part of that work. Shop rate is $109/hr so $218 to diagnose there.

For the console they diagnosed the wiring harness as being bad, $109 for that work.

Considering another shop for a second opinion, but could just be a waste of time and money.