97 rear brakes stop on and off and car lifts too

[comet240]

hi i writting in here cause no one replys in the pontiac sunfire form i guess no one has problems with it but here is my question

i have a 97 sunfire when breaking the driver rear as u step on the brakes and hold
it will hold release hold relase if u drive in revers the driver rear end lifts up till u let go of the brake

i bled all 4 brakes and the 2 adjustments under hood and still nothing and i guess the passanger rear not really locking

as if u step on the brakes lightly the rear brakes lock up what does that mean?

[gmtech1]

Have you inspected the rear brake shoes and brake hardware?

[comet240]

ya shoes are fine adjuster working i suspecting the brake cylinder as then i open the bleeder and tried to push both sides in i couldnt so i cut the bolts for the hub since i couldnt get them off frig need a stainless steal car i tell ya lol and then torched the little bolts since they couldnt come off and then i torched too much and the play where the bolt goes through is gone so ill have to use couple size washes to make up it i guess

i hoping thats it

or what is it noramally caused by

[comet240]

ok so replacing the cylinder worked no problems wwell kinda

i bled all 4 brakes and then i did the 2 under the hood, no air well minus the really really tiny bubbles, so all is good right start up car now the thing spongy as hell well pumped it lots drove it worked itself in but still u can press 2 inchs before it starts to brake where would the air bee or is this the power brake problem? as if u shut car off u can pump a couple times and it gets stiff like a new car basiclly


so why it so spongy when car is running how do i fix that

[gmtech1]

You still have air in the system. Bleed the brakes again. DO NOT pump the brakes. Push the pedal down and hold while a helper opens the bleeder, releases the pressure then closes the bleeded. after bleeder is closed, slowly let the brake pedal back up and wait 10-15 sec. Then repeat the process, including the wait. Bleed in the order of R/R, L/R, R/F, L/F. The entire process may need to be repeated several times.

[comet240]

ok ya i did those steps had my mother press it and i did the valve on the brakes never did the wait 15 seconds i do like 5 repeats then pump a few times then 4 more repeats and then i move to the next tire
would a vacum sucking bleed the brakes better

and how do u bleed the front cylinder under hood i just do it normally pressing break etc but i read somewhere u gotta turn key on couple times etc

whats procedure for that

[gmtech1]

I have never needed to bleed the ports at the ABS valve assy, they were installled as part of the manufacturing process of the ABS component for bleeding during assembly. DO NOT pump the brakes, this basically explodes the large air bubbles into thousands of little ones.

A pressure bleeder works best, vacuum bleeders are ok, but can be deceiving because they can pull air from around the threads of the bleeders.

[comet240]

ah ok so just push slowly on the brakes when u see the very tiny bubbles is that from pumping

i was going to use a jar and my vac pump to suck fluid into the jar

so whats a pressure bleeder and can i make one?

[gmtech1]

A pressure bleeder is just that. It's a tool that has a resivoir filled with brake fluid and attatches to the master cylinder resivior. It uses air pressure to push fluid through the brake system to the bleeders, forcing out the air. They range in price from about 300.00 for a hand pumped style to over 1,000.00 for a large capacity air powerd shop unit.