97 escort, 2.0 soch timing belt

[taunop]

I will try to fix it tomorrow than, hopefully and keep in mind the way to install the belt as well. Is it possible to look at the video and tell if the round notch is the one that is supposed to be used for alignment ? Its the last 10 sec I think.

thank you so much.

[Intuit]

Originally Posted by taunop

some more info:
the car stalls, and it gives me these codes:
0172
303
304
1405
I changed EGR valve 2-3 years ago but didnt see much difference. The old one was full of coal. I dont know how to check for vacuum in the lines. I have a vacuum pump though.

At ~190k, my EGR orifice was clogged as well. Simply cleaned it up and reinstalled it. Didn't have any noticeable running issues as a result of it being clogged; as per mechanic, EGR is only introduced at higher speeds anyway.

Also discovered a number of centimeters of dry-rotted hose at the charcoal evap cannister. That was a vacuum leak.

Some more questions:
About the spark plugs. What does that mean for the engine and my car? How bad is it? What to do to fix the problem so it doesn't happen again, if it is fixable at all.

Though not nearly so severely, had noticed that the plugs wear unevenly in mine as well. But it's not the wear that should cause concern so much as their color/condition. Mine have always appeared to be perfectly fine; which indicated normal combustion/running and excellent engine health. The odd numbered cylinders 1 and 3 seemed to place *very* little wear on the plugs while the even numbered like to run them down a bit. Now I simply check my plugs 1 to 2 times a year and rotate them; even cylinders to odd and vice-versa. The most worn plug gets swapped with the least worn plug. That way I get a smoother running engine and good life and out of the entire set

[taunop]

I managed to pull the pulley from crankshaft but I am having serious troubles with the belt placement.
When I took the old belt which was quite loose compared to this one , was hard ad now I have to put the new one.
It is very tight and in addition to that I have to align the engine as well. Do you guys have any tips or secrets in doing this?

[Intuit]

You have to lock the tensioner pulley in the release position. There should be plenty of slack for sliding the belt over the pulleys before releasing the tensioner. Recall the tip I mentioned at the beginning of the thread... <<You may keep finding that your timing is off the mark by one tooth once you snug things up and even before you turn it over. To counter, you may have to intentionaly set your timing off a tooth before snugging things up. The "backside" of the belt going straight from the cam to the crank is what you'll want to make sure has zero slack.>>

[Intuit]

Check your waterpump pulley by making sure it isn't able to rock off it's axis. Worn bearings will allow it to rock which may cause accelerated t-belt wear. If you are able to rock the pull then the waterpump must be replaced as well.

[ckkhiller]

can't figure out how to start a thread. anyways, my 02 camaro broke down. the ignition lights all flash like when you start the car, then all gauges except oil pressure dies. i was fine with that but eventually the car started to miss and i had no fuel pressure. i changed the pumps, drove for approximately 100 miles and it started symptom #1 and then no fuel pressure again. does anybody know what is going on? If i wires the fuel pump in will the car run?

[12Ounce]

Taunop, what are you using as a written text? Haynes? Chilton? Ford shop manual? Print-out from AutoZone.com?

I think all of those texts show placing the tensioner in the "back" position, and inserting a small pin (small Allen wrench, nail, etc.) in a small hole to hold it there ... while the belt is installed. The pin is then pulled ... and the belt snaps tight.

My 'puter is acting up ... so I cannot view the video you mentioned. But the timing is very staight forward ... assuming you have any text mentioned above. One tip I would add: Make a timing mark on the outside edge of the crank pulley to match the one provided on the inside edge. I use Wite-Out. It makes the work go faster.

Tightening the crank bolt can be a problem ... or holding the pulley can be a problem. Best to drop the oil pan and wedge something between crank-throw and crank-case. But that's too much effort just now. Some folks try to pinch a large screwdriver in the flywheel teeth. Do not do anything to damage the area where the belt runs on the pulley. About 100 footlbs needed, if I remember. Loc-tite on threads also.

[taunop]

I have Chilton manual, and the autozone, which seem to be identical. I read the thing about using pin in the pulley, but doesnt seem to help much. the tensioner goes back to its place.

I am trying to hold it with a wrench but its pain in the neck to work in that tight place. Why do u need to loose the bold in the tensioner? i loosened it and tightened it again, dont see any difference. Am i doing sth wrong?

[rhandwor]

Parts stores sometimes give you the wrong belt. Count the teeth and make sure its the correct belt. The tensioner you have to put in a vise and compress then use something like a small allen wrench after the belt is installed correctly pull out the allen wrench. Their is a small hole to put the allen wrench into. Some times you have to roll the cam counter clock wise about a tooth then when pushing on the belt to put on the tensioner it pulls the gear into the proper position.

[12Ounce]

Originally Posted by taunop

..... about using pin in the pulley, but doesnt seem to help much. the tensioner goes back to its place.....

It takes a bit of fishing around ... Maybe you are forcing the tensioner too far back! I don't remember it being too difficult ... and I don't remember the bit about the bolt. Seems like I remember using an Allen wrench to pull the tensioner back, while using a very small Allen wrench to insert into hole. No big deal that I remember .... but then, I ain't doing it now!

[Intuit]

Doesn't sound like the SOHC 2.0 engine is similar to the 1.9 but with my own 1.9, was able to place a deep socket against waterpump pulley's base (not the pulley itself!) then apply a crowbar to the socket which then pushed on the base (and the pulley) all the way back; where I was then able to retighten the bolt to lock it in the release position.

Why they might've changed the waterpump pulley design to prevent it from locking in the open position, I don't know. Doesn't sound reasonable.

[rhandwor]

Originally Posted by taunop

I have Chilton manual, and the autozone, which seem to be identical. I read the thing about using pin in the pulley, but doesnt seem to help much. the tensioner goes back to its place.

I am trying to hold it with a wrench but its pain in the neck to work in that tight place. Why do u need to loose the bold in the tensioner? i loosened it and tightened it again, dont see any difference. Am i doing sth wrong?

The tensioner is hydraulic you have to press the shaft in so the pin or small Allen wrench goes into the hole in the tensioner and into the shaft. This holds the pin in the tensioner so you can install the belt. Then when you pull the pin the tensioner tightens the belt.
I just remove the tensioner put it into a vise and tighten until the holes line up install a small drill bit or Allen wrench I then reinstall the tensioner.

[taunop]

Thank you all guys for giving tips and helping me out. My problem was just the tensioner, I wasn't putting it at the right place coz the tool i was using would get stuck so ... no going to its right place.

A tip for those having issues with the tensioner:

Unscrew the whole bold that is keeping it there. Use a pair of pliers to put it in the lock position and than plug the pin or whatever in the hole. From there screw it back to the engine, insert the belt. ( once you unscrew it, it might take a few sec to figure out was is going but it is really easy, oh and when u put the tensioner back to the engine , the pin hole should be up)

Keep also in mind the leave a tooth off for the crankshaft like it was said earlier in this thread and it should be no problem.

About pulling the serpentine belt wheel from crankshaft, you can use a flat metal bar and have it stuck in the gears of the crankshaft, and then unfasten the bolt. Hold the bar so it isnt displaced while you try to unfasten the bolt. Shoudldnt be that hard.I tried with stretch wrench, and it didnt help me.

[Sereno011]

I have another question about the tensioner. Whether the bolt is loose or torqued down it still moves freely (under spring tension) using the allen wrench, acting similar to the serpentine belt tensioner. I've done plenty of TB before and the bolt would always lock the pulley into a fixed position. Is this normal operation or am I missing something? I have read the manuals but they are vague on this aspect.