95 Villager CV driveshaft replacement

[joesquid]

The CV joints on my 1995 Villager are going south and due for replacement. After doing some reading it seems to me easier to replace the driveshaft asembly rather than just doing the CV joints. Any discussions on this wouuld be appreciated. I'm not overly fearful of doing the work myself and have access to a fully stocked auto shop (being in the military does have a few perks) in which to do the work. My question is, how hard is it to replace the drive shafts? What problems should I be aware of? Also, I noticed that driveshafts are listed as ABS or non-ABS varieties. I have driver side ABS only so should I order a left side ABS driveshaft and a non-ABS driveshaft for the right?

Thanks for any and all assistance!

Eric

[joesquid]

Disregard the ABS portion of the thread. I obviously haven't had enough coffee this morning. For some reason I was equating ABS with airbags. Must make coffee now!

[dxrflyboy]

The passenger side shaft is a bit tricky, mainly because it is a 2-piece shaft and you have to drive the idler bearing out of the housing. You will need an air hammer to do this. Also, disconnecting the sway bar from the lower control arms will make them easier to pry downward in order to pull the steering knuckle out.

[JEEPMAN33]

No Biggee as long as you have the tools. I have replaced the CV boot on both sides of my 95...Not a big deal. But whie you are at it you may want to go to Murray's or Carquest and get replacement ball joints around $25.00 ea and new tie rod ens for about the same price and replace them. Also you cannot take apart thos joints. I learned that when I tried to replace the CV boots.

Its better to order the joints and axel assembly complete for a bout $100.00 bucks or so try Murrays or Carquest they got them.

It should take about 4 hrs to do. ANd also take a look at the struts while your there.

Good luck...and helps here if you need it...

[JEEPMAN33]

kept getting server busy so I just want to add, if you replace those tie rod ends don't forget to get the front end realinged. I thought I was gonna be smart and mark the tie rod with paint and just screw the new ones on....NO GOOD! this doesn't work!!!...you will wear out those front tires like as fast as ever...get it realigned!!!

[jetdr]

Sure you can replace both cv joint assy's but the boots will only tear again in a matter of months. The rubber that is used for the cv joints is very poor and along with the abuse they take with turning and road debris they will not last long. I recommend just replacing the boot with universal boots that are easily found at any auto store. I have a 94 Villager with 150000 miles and have had to replace the boots numerous times. Don't go thru all the hassle of replacing the assy's.

[dxrflyboy]

A quick boot is fine if you catch it in time. Once the boot breaks open, the joint gets ruined in a short time. It wouldn't hurt to put a quick boot on over top on a reman axle for added protection though.

[IH8SPM]

If you replace just the boot you are masking the problem. Replace them both if you have high miles so that you don't pay for more repairs with a breakdown in the middle of no where.

[jetdr]

Originally Posted by dxrflyboy

A quick boot is fine if you catch it in time. Once the boot breaks open, the joint gets ruined in a short time. It wouldn't hurt to put a quick boot on over top on a reman axle for added protection though.

dxrflyboy, Placing another boot on top of the existing one is an excellent idea. I just might try that next time which will probably be very soon. Thanks for the suggestion !!!

[chitownshadetree]

Originally Posted by dxrflyboy

The passenger side shaft is a bit tricky, mainly because it is a 2-piece shaft and you have to drive the idler bearing out of the housing. You will need an air hammer to do this. Also, disconnecting the sway bar from the lower control arms will make them easier to pry downward in order to pull the steering knuckle out.

hey, i'm stuck...i have the front part of the axel out, but i cant get the half-shaft seperated from the tranny, there's no easy pry locations..i;m doing this on the driveway and dont have alot of room to play with..i've changed many cv axels and have never ran into such a stupidass set up, way to go ford! anyway, any suggestions?

[dxrflyboy]

Originally Posted by chitownshadetree

hey, i'm stuck...i have the front part of the axel out, but i cant get the half-shaft seperated from the tranny, there's no easy pry locations..i;m doing this on the driveway and dont have alot of room to play with..i've changed many cv axels and have never ran into such a stupidass set up, way to go ford! anyway, any suggestions?

If you're changing the RH shaft, it doesn't separate easily from the intermediate shaft. A reman should come with the intermediate shaft and bearing. Good luck getting that bearing out of the bracket working on the ground! It's been a while since I've done the LH side, so I don't remember what there is to pry against.

[karenjim]

Originally Posted by chitownshadetree

hey, i'm stuck...i have the front part of the axel out, but i cant get the half-shaft seperated from the tranny, there's no easy pry locations..i;m doing this on the driveway and dont have alot of room to play with..i've changed many cv axels and have never ran into such a stupidass set up, way to go ford! anyway, any suggestions?

Hey I know it's been awhile since this post was placed... But here I am having the SAME issue with my Mercury Tracer... Can't seem to get it out of the tranny... Did you ever solve the issue? What did you do? Also working on the driveway and can't find anything to pry up against....