HELP! Power Steering Bolt Broke Off in Block

[duke_winchester]

The bolt is an M8-1.25. The car is still at a shop, as I initially lost patience dealing with this, and they are gonna give it one last go around tomorrow. I already had it at another shop a couple of days ago. They tried and finally said they would have to pull the engine. This car is going on 15 years old and has 170000 miles. I'm not ready to drop close to a grand for them to pull the engine. If the shop its at now can't fix it, its back to my house and I'll drop the cradle to try to fix it. I can't see scrapping the car over a bolt, but I have considered it. This has been super frustrating.

[duke_winchester]

Got it out. Dropped the engine down. Used a dremel to flatten the end of the bolt and then drilled out the center of the bolt with left hand drill bits. Then I used an easy out and pulled it right out. However, I still have my original rattling problem (in another post) and now also my ABS, Check Tire Pressure, and Air Bag lights in the dash are on and won't go off. What could this be? Thanks

[olopezm]

Glad you got it out!

ABS and Tire pressure lights might be caused by an electrical problem with the ABS sensors at each wheel, are all conectors properly seated?, maybe you damaged one of the wires during the process. Same thing could apply for the air bag light.

Oscar.

[rkvons]

Originally Posted by duke_winchester

Got it out. Dropped the engine down. Used a dremel to flatten the end of the bolt and then drilled out the center of the bolt with left hand drill bits. Then I used an easy out and pulled it right out. However, I still have my original rattling problem (in another post) and now also my ABS, Check Tire Pressure, and Air Bag lights in the dash are on and won't go off. What could this be? Thanks

Perhaps lowering the engine tugged on a wire harness somewhere. I would check the connection at the firewall and at the ECM.

[duke_winchester]

Got the ABS and Tire Pressure lights to go off - was a disconnected harness behind the drivers side wheel well. Anyone know where the wiring harness runs in the engine bay for the air bag system and where the sensor(s) is? I had to lower my engine cradle to remove a broken bolt in the block and after getting it back together, the air bag light in the dash comes on and won't go off. Thanks

[duke_winchester]

So, I probably did a dumb thing that messed this up (the air bag system). When I lifted my engine cradle back up initially, the rack and pinion didn't interlock with the steering column, so when I turned the wheel it spun around and around. This would have messed up the air bag components in the column wouldn't it?

[olopezm]

Sounds like you probably damaged the clockspring. It is located at the back of the steering wheel and has a ribbon type cable which can be easily broken when stressed too much.

My windstar's clockspring got damaged (don't know how) and I took it apart and resoldered the wires inside. Worked like a charm!

It's been 3 months so far and no problems.

Oscar.

[duke_winchester]

How do I get at that clockspring?

[olopezm]

I have a PDF with everything you need to know but it's too heavy to upload it to the forum. Send me a PM or email with you rdetails and I'll be glad to send it to you.

Oscar.

[duke_winchester]

PM sent. Thanks

[olopezm]

You're welcome!

By the way YOU GOT MAIL!

HA I always wanted to say that LOL.

Oscar.

[duke_winchester]

So if the clockspring is damaged, I should be able to see that as broken wires? If so, can they be repaired as the previous poster did, or must I buy a new one?

[olopezm]

The best would be to replace it and yes, it's just a set of wires (ribbon cable).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4tXtPBWaKZI

The choice is up to you. If you have the skills to solder it and feel like it (or just canoot afford it at the moment), then go ahead; it's not like you're adding lots of wire that will affect the systems resistance and will cause your airbag not to work or blow prematurely, or you can just buy a new one.

Oscar.