Ferrari 250 GTO CHASSIS 4293 LE MANS 1963 SECOND PLACE.

[Amazing43]

The rear arch mods and the blocks for the rear lights

[Amazing43]

I have received a reply from Akihiro with some pictures of how he hinged the door. I have attached these pictures.

Hi Peter, I would send you several progress photos of Superior 250GTO which I build four years ago.
I replaced the kit hinge of nickel silver strips which I bent to go through the axis. The side frame of the door were also replaced.
I added the rainwater guttering with 0.3mm brass lines around the door-opening. It may hold the door, avoid the excessive closing to the inside.

Regards,
Akihiro


Thank you also Jean Paul and milou165 on my French forum so I now have several ideas to work on when I return to the doors

[ales]

That door is a work of art all on its own!

[Amazing43]

After seeing Akihiro’s doors I was inspired to throw away the old white metal door frame and start again. A new frame was bent to shape in square section brass tube then this was filed to fit the curvature of the door panel. A piece of tube was soldered to the new frame and thin brass wire bent to make the attachment to the door pillar. This was then soldered in place. The doors now open and all that remains is to hope that after painting the doors will clear the bodywork on opening. I must try to keep the paint thickness to a minimum.

Please can anyone tell me how to upload larger pictures rather than thumbnails!!

[512BB]

Amazing work that you are doing here! And thanks for posting a colour pic of chassis 3757GT too! I am planning to build a 1/24 Gunze GTO from my shelf into a 3757GT, for I saw the picture of a restored GTO from Greenwood which carried the no. 22 livery it ran in '63. Am I wrong about it, for that GTO had 3 side vents and a normal tail! Your picture shown all the difference I need to know!

[Amazing43]

My original plan had been to build 4293 that placed 2nd in 1963 however as I progressed I realised that the car had a side exit exhaust and I wanted to use the full length system. As I already have a model of the second place 62 car I decided when I found some nice pictures 3757 to do that. £757 only ran at Le Mans in 62. It might have gained a third vent later as later cars and cars that had had accident damage were fitted with the third vent. The car is now owned by Nick Mason and registered 250 GTO,

Regards

Peter

[512BB]

Originally Posted by Amazing43

My original plan had been to build 4293 that placed 2nd in 1963 however as I progressed I realised that the car had a side exit exhaust and I wanted to use the full length system. As I already have a model of the second place 62 car I decided when I found some nice pictures 3757 to do that. £757 only ran at Le Mans in 62. It might have gained a third vent later as later cars and cars that had had accident damage were fitted with the third vent. The car is now owned by Nick Mason and registered 250 GTO,

Regards

Peter

Thanks for the information! One of the reason why I want to make the 3757 is because I saw the picture as it ran in Greenwood. A very standard GTO with 3 vents where no modification work is required for the standard Gunze kit. Maybe I need to think twice now!

[Amazing43]

Work proceeds on some of the exterior detail parts. The rear fuel filler cap opens, the interior mirror is three parts and the windscreen wipers are four parts!

[Amazing43]

The body parts have been primed and had a thin coat of top coat. For all my Ferrari models I use Ford Venetian red. This gives a good rich colour. From my pictures I note I need two sets of No22 with closed loopes on the 2 for the numbers on the front and rear. If anyone can help I would be very grateful

[Amazing43]

Work has been slow, good weather has meant lots to do in the garden and little time for model making. However the body parts have been painted. I have always used Ford Venetian red for my Ferrari models. I doubt there is a true Ferrari red as I am sure the various body builders of the time used whatever racing red was in the can at the time, I like my collection to all look the same however and this is a lovely rich red.
After painting the parts were all polished lightly with 3M finessit. Again I do not use clear on period models and my experience at the time was proper racing cars were a bit rough and ready unlike today’s finish of classic cars where they are jewels worth millions!!!
The boot, bonnet and doors were taped in place and the hinges carefully glued in place with Epoxy.

[Amazing43]

After the epoxy was set all the panels open nicely and the body fits perfectly onto the chassis.