What degree should my timing be?!

[jgmack823]

1978 lincoln continental town coupe

460
I got it all worked out and running just need to know what degree to time it tooo!!!
please help

8? ATC
10? ATC

[Towncar]

There are two engines for 1978; Review the following carefully:
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++

IGNITION TIMING
1978 Lincoln Continental 7.5L 4BL OHV 8cyl
16 Degrees

Before top dead center
*Set at warm idle speed (575 RPM)
*Distributor vacuum hose disconnected & plugged
*All accessories off
*Transmission in drive (parking brake engaged)

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++

IGNITION TIMING
1978 Lincoln Continental 6.6L 2BL OHV 8cyl
Application:
With California emission

Ignition Timing
16 Degrees

Note :
Before top dead center
*Set at warm idle speed (600 RPM)
*Distributor vacuum hose disconnected & plugged
*All accessories off
*Transmission in drive (parking brake engaged)

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++

IGNITION TIMING
1978 Lincoln Continental 6.6L 2BL OHV 8cyl
Application:
Without California emission
13 Degrees

Note :
Before top dead center
*Set at warm idle speed (575 RPM)
*Distributor vacuum hose disconnected & plugged
*All accessories off
*Transmission in drive (parking brake engaged)

[jgmack823]

I have the 7.5 Liter
I am a little confused because on the crank shaft it says:


ATDC 10-----0-----10-----20------30 BTDC

did you mean ATDC???

It ran wonderful without the bolt in and when I put the bolt in it stalled when i gave it gas in Drive.

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by jgmack823

I have the 7.5 Liter
I am a little confused because on the crank shaft it says:


BTDC 10-----0-----10-----20------30 ATDC

did you mean ATDC???

It ran wonderful without the bolt in and when I put the bolt in it stalled when i gave it gas in Drive.

do you have points in that or did you switch it over to electronic with pick up coil in it? we have a 1970 lincoln cont mark111 sports coupe 2 door and it's in a one shape those 460's have got the power.

[Towncar]

Originally Posted by jgmack823

I have the 7.5 Liter

BTDC 10-----0-----10-----20------30 ATDC

did you mean ATDC???

I wish I still had one to look at and play with.. I pulled the specs from an online data source, autozone.com if I remember correctly.

I suggest you time it by ear & feel till we get a second person quoting specs.. I'll see if I still have my old Motor Manuals too.

[MagicRat]

Originally Posted by jgmack823

I have the 7.5 Liter
I am a little confused because on the crank shaft it says:


BTDC 10-----0-----10-----20------30 ATDC

did you mean ATDC???

It ran wonderful without the bolt in and when I put the bolt in it stalled when i gave it gas in Drive.

Don't use ATDC.

This stands for After Top Dead Center and is not used when setting static timing at idle.

You want to use the BTDC measurement (Before Top Dead Center).
As noted above, disconnect the vacuum line going to the distributor and plug it. At about a 575 rpm idle, set the timing at idle with your strobe light, so the pointer is at 10 deg BTDC.

Yes, this means the spark plug fires before the piston is all the way to the top of its travel. This is normal. It takes a few degrees of crankshaft travel for the fuel/air mixture to start to burn, hence the plug has to fire a bit early.

I have a '77 Lincoln with the same engine. I recall the timing specs called for 10 deg BTDC, but I will have to check on this. 16 deg seems a bit too much, but I am not sure.

Look under the hood of your car. The original sticker giving the timing specifications might still be there, somewhere, on the inner fender, valve cover, fan shroud, etc.

[jgmack823]

I have a book that says 13 BTDC I suppose taking the vacuum line will change things. but before doing that it does this....


when the car is running and I put the light on the car will die if i put it before 5 ATC from 8 to 20 ATDC it runs decent

It runs high on park and low in drive

I will try again with the vacuum line off and see if it changes things

[MagicRat]

Originally Posted by jgmack823

I will try again with the vacuum line off and see if it changes things

I seem to recall these cars have an unusual variable vacuum control valve..... which will provide manifold vacuum when cold, and either ported vacuum or manifold vacuum (whichever is higher) when warm.

Simply put, yes, disconnecting the vacuum advance will make a big difference.

If the car still runs poorly afterwards, , remove the distributor cap and rotor, and take a close look at the advance weights and the vacuum diaphragm. It's possible some of your symptoms are due to an advance mechanism that is stuck on "advance" all time.