WIP: Ford Sierra RS500 Tamiya

[deltac]

Hey guys,

I just discovered this forum and from the little time I have been looking around I have seen some amazing work

A couple of days ago looking around in my attic I discovered an old model I had built many years ago....but not just any model. To my surprise I found out it is a Tamiya Ford Sierra RS500 with the Piumini Trampio colours

Sadly, the way I painted it and detailed it was very bad ...ok I was just a kid at the time, but now that this passion for scale models is starting to come back, I wanted to give the Sierra a dignified treatment....

There are several problems though. I will most probably lose all the decals as they are damaged from years of heat/moving around, the rear whale tail is missing, the paint needs to be removed, and I need to understand it if is possible to remove the glued parts to be able to paint them properly.

I'm still deciding what colour scheme to do, it also depends on if I can get my hands on some decals. I have tried searching for decals but so far nothing. I might also just paint it white and add some details, especially the interior.

What do you experts recommend for my problems









As I said earlier...I was a kid

Ciao from Italy

[deltac]

Just a quick update.

Removed as much as I could from the body, and interior. I somehow managed to not break any lights, glass etc but the front fog lights are almost impossible to remove

I also am unable to remove the drivers seat, and trying to remove it with force is leading to a crack appearing on the sides of the seat.

Tomorrow I'm going to try and remove the paint with alcohol, and start sanding the ugly glue marks and preparing new contact points for the parts. I also might buy some material that could be used as 'carpet' for the interior and some kind of piping to create a full roll cage.

[potsie]

Good luck. I quite enjoy rebuilding my old models from childhood. In fact I have a Texaco Sierra about to receive this treatment! One way of removing glued parts is to put them in a freezer for a while - some glues will crack and enable you to separate the parts.

As for decals, Media Mix Hobby has some rally and rallycross liveries. I see the occassional decal kit for Australian touring cars (e.g. Johnson Shell, Brock Mobil, Moffat ANZ which is even left hand drive) on eBay.

Grant.

[deltac]

Originally Posted by potsie

Good luck. I quite enjoy rebuilding my old models from childhood. In fact I have a Texaco Sierra about to receive this treatment! One way of removing glued parts is to put them in a freezer for a while - some glues will crack and enable you to separate the parts.

As for decals, Media Mix Hobby has some rally and rallycross liveries. I see the occassional decal kit for Australian touring cars (e.g. Johnson Shell, Brock Mobil, Moffat ANZ which is even left hand drive) on eBay.

Grant.

thanks for the help. I might try the freezer for the fog lights.
As for the decals, I would consider making it into a btcc sierra or texaco if I could find the decals, I don't love the other liveries.





edit: is there any website that could have the original instructions, colours needed sheet, etc? I looked on 1999.co.jp but they didn't have any sierra kits.

edit 2: I've seen other people using copper wire to create roll bars, I wanted to know if it is ok to use a glue gun to fix the copper to the plastics or if is too hot and if it will make the primer brittle?

[mrgixxer]

I just bought the Tamiya "Eggenberger RS500" off that auction site cheap....still sealed

[endac]

I'd definately go with the Labatts livery. I think it suits it best

[Viccario]

I too am restoring an old Sierra racing model (XR4Ti) and appreciate the problems involved! I successfully used brake fluid to remove the paint and also found it loosens the glue (if you used polystyrene cement originally which literally welds the plastic together). If it does not loosen sufficiently cutting or a hot knife may be the other options to try followed by filling to repair any damage caused.

I would be tempted to do as a track day version with stripped out interior and no carpet. Also has the advanteage of no decals necessary!).

I used copper wire for the roll cage in mine with epoxy 2 part quick setting resin (Araldite) as adhesive but with hindsight would use either plastic sprue or solder instead if I make another as it is easier to manipulate than copper wire.

The Labatts version in the photo's is not one of the old group A versions, it looks like a Thunder Saloon version to me with the group A Labatts livery. Still cool though!

You may be able to get a cheap built verison from e-bay with a rear spoiler which will help you with parts.

Good luck with the build!

[deltac]

Progress update...

Paint removed, body and parts sanded with 1000 grit,
'Glass' surfaces had glue marks and crack on the windshield. It's still not perfect so I might have to sand it down even more. I think sanding with 1000 and using polish will not be enough to smooth it back to being see through, might need finer sand paper.

Im thinking of anything else I might need to do before priming the model....can anyone think of anything? Should I deepen the body lines?

I'm trying to think of what I can do to get the whale tail that's missing...do you guys think that if I write to Tamiya they will send me one?

Also, is grey primer ok if I plan to spray the car white for it's final colour?

ciao

[deltac]

Originally Posted by Viccario

I too am restoring an old Sierra racing model (XR4Ti) and appreciate the problems involved! I successfully used brake fluid to remove the paint and also found it loosens the glue (if you used polystyrene cement originally which literally welds the plastic together). If it does not loosen sufficiently cutting or a hot knife may be the other options to try followed by filling to repair any damage caused.

I would be tempted to do as a track day version with stripped out interior and no carpet. Also has the advanteage of no decals necessary!).

I used copper wire for the roll cage in mine with epoxy 2 part quick setting resin (Araldite) as adhesive but with hindsight would use either plastic sprue or solder instead if I make another as it is easier to manipulate than copper wire.

The Labatts version in the photo's is not one of the old group A versions, it looks like a Thunder Saloon version to me with the group A Labatts livery. Still cool though!

You may be able to get a cheap built verison from e-bay with a rear spoiler which will help you with parts.

Good luck with the build!

My idea was either copper wire of spaghetti

You're right about the sierra in the pictures not being a gr.a, I knew something about the flared arches didn't look right for an rs.500.




there's Tim Harveys glorious sierra

[mrgixxer]

Originally Posted by deltac

My idea was either copper wire of spaghetti

You're right about the sierra in the pictures not being a gr.a, I knew something about the flared arches didn't look right for an rs.500.




there's Tim Harveys glorious sierra

That is deffo an Gr A RS500... Andy Rouse/ Tim Harvey car... BTCC

[Drift F.C]

For the windows, you could use Overhead Projector Film

I use it on some of my rebuilds if the glass is paint/glue stained

Just if you don't know, this is a Overhead Projector, it might be called something else in other countries:

[deltac]

Originally Posted by Drift F.C

For the windows, you could use Overhead Projector Film

I use it on some of my rebuilds if the glass is paint/glue stained

Just if you don't know, this is a Overhead Projector, it might be called something else in other countries:

Thanks for the heads up, I was considering using material similar to this...I'll keep an eye out for anything these next days that I could use.

[Viccario]

[quote=deltac;6830222]Progress update...

Paint removed, body and parts sanded with 1000 grit,
'Glass' surfaces had glue marks and crack on the windshield. It's still not perfect so I might have to sand it down even more. I think sanding with 1000 and using polish will not be enough to smooth it back to being see through, might need finer sand paper.

Im thinking of anything else I might need to do before priming the model....can anyone think of anything? Should I deepen the body lines?

I'm trying to think of what I can do to get the whale tail that's missing...do you guys think that if I write to Tamiya they will send me one? Highly unlikely that Tamiya can help, still think your best option would be to purchase a cheap built one from e-bay to use as a donor for parts.Also, is grey primer ok if I plan to spray the car white for it's final colour? I would recommend to only use white primer for a white car.ciao

Please see responses in red italics above, cheers.

[deltac]

[quote=Viccario;6830466]

Originally Posted by deltac

Progress update...

Paint removed, body and parts sanded with 1000 grit,
'Glass' surfaces had glue marks and crack on the windshield. It's still not perfect so I might have to sand it down even more. I think sanding with 1000 and using polish will not be enough to smooth it back to being see through, might need finer sand paper.

Im thinking of anything else I might need to do before priming the model....can anyone think of anything? Should I deepen the body lines?

I'm trying to think of what I can do to get the whale tail that's missing...do you guys think that if I write to Tamiya they will send me one? Highly unlikely that Tamiya can help, still think your best option would be to purchase a cheap built one from e-bay to use as a donor for parts.Also, is grey primer ok if I plan to spray the car white for it's final colour? I would recommend to only use white primer for a white car.ciao

Please see responses in red italics above, cheers.

Believe it or not Tamiya actually has the spare parts that I need. They replied to my email straight away with the order form. I just need to decide if I'm willing to pay 10 euros for them (and also deal with import tax, etc).

[Viccario]

[quote=deltac;6830471]

Originally Posted by Viccario

Believe it or not Tamiya actually has the spare parts that I need. They replied to my email straight away with the order form. I just need to decide if I'm willing to pay 10 euros for them (and also deal with import tax, etc).

Wow! That's good, perhaps they are planning to re-release the original kit?