water pump question

[oldgoat8369]

I have a brand new PONTIAC 350 hp engine that I will be putting in soon I need a water pump .This car will not be abused just used as a cruiser where is the best place to purchase a water pump I hear the ones with a cast impeller are better than the steel ones any input will help .I need it soon

[MrPbody]

OG,

"Brand new" 350? Are you refering to a Chevrolet "crate" engine or a rebuilt 350 Pontiac? It may seem a "nit", but there are NO true "brand new" Pontiac engines under 505 CID available (that I know of). There ARE 350 Chevys all around. Not "interchangeable".

Also, what year is the engine going in?

We've tried the cast impeller versus the stamped steel. No difference. Buy a good quality AMERICAN-MADE water pump and everything will be "fine". We use ASC WP-381 (9-bolt timing cover) and WP-411 (11-bolt timing cover). Virtually ALL new water pumps use the stamped impeller. We've found no need for anything "special".

Jim

[oldgoat8369]

sorry if I embarresed myslef it is a Pontiac 400 "remanufactured " 350hp engine 8 hole water pump I ordered it from ames today I dont know if theirs are made in the US but at this point it is what im going to use

[MrPbody]

OG,

No embarassment. I'm "in the business", which makes my POV a little different. Many refer to crate engines as that's a current "buzz word", particularly among the body shop and show-car crowds. I wanted to be certain you have a true Pontiac engine (many replace their old Injun with a crate small block, why is anyone's "guess", certainly not because they're "better", just perceived so). I've heard youngsters more unaware of the "old days" refer to them as "all GM". Chevy and Pontiac 350s have NOTHING "in common". Just wanted to be sure. Had I paid more attention and seen your "350 HP" (I didn't look PAST "350"), I would have kinown it was a 400 Pontiac.

Ames is a good outfit.

Jim

[oldgoat8369]

Jim, I actually found time this past weekend to attempt installing the water pump I puchased stainless divider plates from ames in their catollog it clearly states some "countouring" may be required together they both fit the outer dimension of the housing but depth wise they dont the round part on the back of the first plate that sticks out and but up to the water passage will need to be ground down about 1 eighth of an inch in order to allow the plates to at least be flush or at best fit inside the housing I have 2 questions that round part that sticks out the back of the plate on some photos I have seen a rubber gromit thet fits into the water passage that the round part of the plate fits into is this rubber part mandatory???? if the plate is super tight in the whole 2nd as mentioned I have an 8 hole pump 3 of the bolts are actually studs with nuts on them and the other 5 are regular bolts can you explain why and where the 3 studs go and there purpose

[MrPbody]

The three studs are usually found in the lower "row" of bolt holes, UNDER the pump shaft. If they've been removed from the timing cover, use a little thread sealer (we use Permatex "Aviation") when you screw them back in. Their use makes it easy to line up the pump and gasket.

The rubber grommets are for the 11-bolt ('69-later) pumps that use "channelling" tubes. Yours doesn't use them.

Jim

[oldgoat8369]

I HAVE AN ANTIFREEZE LINK THAT i THINK IS COMING FROM THE WATER PASSAGE BETWEEN THE INTAKE MANIFOLD AND THE WATER PUMP HOUSING I PUT THE RUBBER GRONMET IN" DRY" NO SEALER I TIGHTEND UP THE LONG SCREW FIRST BEFORE TORQUING DOWN THE MANIFOLD i EVEN BOUGHT A NEW RUBBER GROMMET FROM AMES ITS JUST A BIT THICKER AND WAS SUPPOSED TO ELIMINATE THE CHANCE FOR LEAKS i JUST GOT A HOLD OF A RADIATOR PRESSURE TESTER i AM GOING TO PUT A LITTLE PRESSURE TO THE SYSTEM TO CONFIRM WHERE THE LEAK IS COMING FROM IF IT IS FROM THIS AREA AND i HAVE TO TAKE THE MANIFOLD OFF WHAT TYPE OF SEALER SHOULD i USE ??? i WAS TOLD PYRMATEX DOESNT STICK TO RUBBER