Turbo ecu

[LandoAWD]

At this point I'm expecting the oil drain...

Yep, I may be a bit harsh in my last couple of posts, but half-assing, doing without thinking, poor decision making...all of these help to further hurt the DSM rep. AS someone who's been in the scene for 13+ years, it hurts when I see this stuff happen.

[Cavalier9696]

Originally Posted by SilvrEclipse

I picked up some barb fittings from lowes that worked fine. On another note how did you install this FMU. You didn't put it on the fuel rail feed line did you?

Ya I cut the hose running from the fuel rail to the fire wall in half and put the FMU in between. Just hard to get the hose and the hose clamp on the FMU where the fuel rail goes to, cause the nimple on the top of FMU is to close to the FMU causing me not to get the hose on good. Well, I wont drive it till it fixed.

[SilvrEclipse]

Can you put your car and mod list in your sig so we know what setup its running. I was trying to find the yr of your car to see if the fuel reg was on the rail or on the filter. Now back to the FMU IF it is tapped into the fuel line on the driver side of the rail then this is wrong and its not raising your fuel pressure at all. If your car is a 95 and has the FPR on the rail then there will be a return line on the passenger side and if you tapped into this line it would be correct

[david-b]

IIRC, it's a 95, and I believe after some time trying to explain, it is hooked up on the proper line.

Rule #1 on hoses... must on and clamped perfectly. No exceptions. Especially when it comes to fuel so it's such a thin fluid.

[Cavalier9696]

The passenger side has no fuel line at all I can see. The 95 has it on the driver side, directly from the fire wall to the rail where I have the FMU. I called mitsubishi to make sure. I also checked my haynes book.

I finnaly got a hose barb and have no leaks now. There is a HUGE difference in the pick up when I hit the gas. Feels real good.

[Cavalier9696]

K IM driving down the road and the car dies like not getting any fuel after about 10 minutes of driving. But I have looked ALL over the passenger side and can't find any kind of fuel hose to rail. Only on driver side. I just went and looked and there are 2 lines on the driver side. One line from the firewall to rail which where I have FMU and a line from the rail to my filter. Just to double check, the line I have it on is correct? Where is ya'lls located? I have seen a few people put there FMU under the car, under the passenger seat. Mine is under the hood. Silvr you get my PM?

[david-b]

The 95s have the send/return on the drivers side. You got your stuff hooked up right on there. 96+ have to have the FMU in the back.

I forgot to get back to your text yesterday. It sounds like the turbo is seizing up. Something may not be right with it.

[Cavalier9696]

I called the guy that rebuilt it and he said it sounds like something is going on, on the inside. I asked if i had a warrenty but I don't. Which I was told I would. He said I can tighten it myself but there are some torque specifications on the nutt to the turbine wheel. Any1 know it?

[david-b]

Could you explain what the problem was again? I don't have the texts anymore. I thought the wheel was seizing up? Is the nut not on tight then? I'm confused

[Cavalier9696]

Originally Posted by david-b

Could you explain what the problem was again? I don't have the texts anymore. I thought the wheel was seizing up? Is the nut not on tight then? I'm confused

The turbo was making a grinding sound like it was dry. But yesterday I took the feed and the return line off to make sure oil was being cycled and it is. Now it makes a whining sound. When I gas it, it doesn't go over 0psi. I can grab the turbine wheel on the side where the cone goes and it wiggles almost freely. I can grab it and pull it in and out the turbo, not far but it moves pretty ez. When I called the guy who rebuilt it, he said it's not suppost to move in and out at all. He also said if the nutt was loose that to tighten it, it has some torque specifications. Plus he said he put JB weld on it. That doesn't sound to safe to me at all with the JB.

First time it messed up is when the wheel wouldn't move at all. I had to take my finger to get it started. Checked all my cooler piping to make sure nothing was loose and it was fine.

[SilvrEclipse]

He probably just put jb weld on it to keep it from backing out. The turbo should have no in and out play. Look at the housing around the wheel and see if there is scraps where the wheel has hit the housing.

[david-b]

My turbo seized a couple times because there was a kink in my oil line. I was able to break it free though and luckily it's not damaged. Sounds like it may have been starved and did the same. As Silvr said, should be no play at all. The side to side AND in and out worries me. Even if just the nut were loose, it would just have in and out play, not both.

[Cavalier9696]

The guy is going refund my money. I went ahead and bought another t25 JDM. It comes with the internal WG set at 8psi, so I might use the internal instead so I might need some advice on how to set it to 5psi. Like silver said about turbo prices. I paid $500 for that rebuild and hell I bought this brand new JDM for $425.

[david-b]

What's a JDM t25?
$425 for a t25? Wow... still very pricey.

Well glad he's refunding the money. You can't drop the psi below the wastegate spring. So if the spring is for 8, you can not get it below there. And it's very hard to find an internal spring smaller than 10.

[LandoAWD]

Hopefully "JDM" doesn't mean "off an RB25" or you just made more work...

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