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#1 | |
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XTerra Guy
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2001
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Noticed the boot had been cut on the lower a-arm. Any idea how easy this is to replace?
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#2 | |
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AF Enthusiast
Join Date: Jun 2001
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More work than the upper ball joint.
Remove the torsion bar to get any force off the lower arm. Pull the pin and nut then separate the joint from the spindle. If the half shaft isn't in the way, swing it up and out. If it is in the way, you'll have to remove it as well. Put the new boot on and put it back together. I would fix the boot quickly, since the joint itself is not replacable. If the ball joint goes, you replace the whole arm
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Regards, Ian |
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#3 | |
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AF Newbie
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Difficult to tell how big the cut is, but it looks large? As far as I know you can’t just purchase the boot form Nissan, although I did notice some part number/manufacture info on some of the stock boots? If it’s been that way for much wheelin’ the joint maybe sloppy and needs replacement IMO.
I’ve repaired a small cut in one of my uppers with a tire rubber repair patch and it held well/solid for 6 months (forgot about it) before I replaced it. Upon replacement the patch still seemed sound & I’m carrying it as a backup. BTW is your tire rubbing (circular marks on the top right) / need steering stop adjustments? Good luck, please let us know the resolution. |
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#4 | |
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XTerra Guy
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2001
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I called Nissan today. The repair is to replace the whole lower control arm which starts at $210, plus at least half a day labor.
I called a parts department, and they suggested going to NAPA and getting a boot to replace the cut one. I would have to remove the lower control arm, and re-press the ball joint when putting it back together. Probably will have to remove the half-shaft as well.Any thoughts on the do-it-yourself route? Thanks for the tips XOC and XoolBox. |
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#5 | |
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AF Regular
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Dammit, I wish I was out there already. :-( These are the kinds of jobs I like to help out on.
You have the ESM, right? That will go a long way to helping you figure out how to dis/assemble everything. I am guessing you intend to do this before going off to Moab. good luck!! |
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#6 | |
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XTerra Guy
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Mar 2001
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Actually you CAN help. I'm going to relube it, tire patch it, and be on my way. When I get back, I'll have more time to tear into it. Worse case scenario is I'll order the lower control arm myself, and fix it myself (with the help of a few friends).
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#7 | |
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AF Regular
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I should be there sometime shortly after the week you guys get back. I have a ballpark as to when, so I will let you know as the time gets closer to a definite arrival date. So I will be happy to help. have pickle forks and lots of other tools....will travel!! :bandit:
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#8 | |
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AF Regular
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: manassas, Virginia
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from my previous experience on removing lower A-arms, and my experience of replacing a tosion bar achor bolts i can tell you that the worst part of the whole job is removing the rear bolt that connects the lower A-arm to the frame. that bolt is splined and goes into the torsion bar anchor thru the frame and lower A arm. Use lots of WD-40 and be careful not to strip out or destroy the threads when you hammer it out. removed torsion bar , torsion bar anchor, shock, sway bar end link, and separate the spindle from the lower A arm. half shaft does not need to be removed. it can be done with proper tools and patience but that rear bolt i previously mentioned caused the usage of many swear words. i dont think the job is worth half a day of labor, but i can see how it could take that long in the worst case senario.
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