2002 Taurus 24V Duratech stopped running while driving What do I do next?

[bighank]

Car was run with insufficient oil and started knocking. Engine has approx 129,000 miles. Has had synthetic 5W20 for years. Not slugged up. After adding more new synthetic oil and a valve lubricant engine continued knocking. Driving at about 40 MPH engine stopped and check engine light came on. Would not even turn over therefore I'm saying it siezed up. Temps here in the 20s to 40s so not from excessive heat.

When it was towed home tried starting after engine had been off for 2 hours. Did crank slightly but stopped in 1 second.

Was planning on draining oil and changing filter adding new oil and maybe some transmission fluid.
What would you suggest
BIGHANK

[tempfixit]

Sound to me like main bearings froze to crank from lack of oil to me. Over haul time including new crank, possible some piston rods.

[shorod]

At this point you won't be out much to try the tranny fluid and oil to see if that will get the engine running again. Chances are though that significant damage was already done to the crank bearings and probably other hard parts in the engine, but you may be able to nurse it along another year or so if you keep good oil in there at the correct level.

-Rod

[bighank]

***********************************UPDATE *************************************

Drained oil and removed filter, replaced filter and added 1 quart of type F transmission fluid and 1 pint of Gunk ValveMedic Oil Detergent plus new oil to add up to 5 quarts. Cranked engine till it turned over and finally started. This took over an hour and required jumping battery from another vehicle as battery had run down trying to crank the engine. When engine finally started could rear a very loud metallic tapping noise (rod or valve lifter?) which increased in loudness with engine rpm. Ran at 1500 to 2000 rpm for 15 to 20 minutes to warm up engine to normal operating temperature to let new oil with detergent and transmission fluid work its way to all lubricated parts and to recharge depleted battery. Outside temp today was about 56 degrees and after about 10 minutes tried heater and it produced hot air from heater outlets.

Was hesitant to remove foot from accelerator as I thought that the engine would die if left at idle but finally reduced pressure on accelerator and let warmed up emgine idle (approximately 600 rpm which was about where engine normally idled). Put car in gear and it was able to move forward and backward so transmission still works. No check engine light or other warning lights on dash but at idle tapping noise still present but at a much reduced noise level. Hesitant to try driving to any place where I could further diagnose or repair the engine as I don't want to have it stop and sieze up like it did the other day.

Should I have this engine torn down and rebuilt or replace it?

What is a reasonable price for a used or rebuilt engine?

What is a reasonable price for labor to either

A). rebuild it? or

B.) to drop another engine into this car?

BIGHANK

[bighank]

Been researching used engines and found some around $300-$800 for VIN S Duratec 24 V for a 2001-2003 Taurus. Also found them for Sables. Are they the same or are some parts different and would a Sable Duratec drop in and have everything bolt on correctly?

Some vendors recomment replacing the water pump, timing belt(s) and front and rear main seals. Is this really necessary?

BIGHANK