2001 Suburban Fuel Pump

[MazdaX]

So my fuel pump is toast in my suburban and I need to replace it. I found a OEM replacement for 100.00 online and ordered it after hearing a 1000+ quotes from all sorts of repair shops. Anywho , are there any tips or tricks to quickly removing the tank ? I have the walk through from the dealership but sometimes we all find our own short cuts =D

Oh and my starter and my water pump and my rear seal and my tail shaft seal and both sides tie rods haha..god this thing totally took a nose dive.

ADD : This is a 2WD - Single Tank - 1500.

[danielsatur]

www.alldata.com, might have the trade secret for fuel pump removal.
New cars have an access panel behind seats, or in the trunk.

[Cusser]

Mine's a 1994 Sub half-ton, 2WD, but my non-dealer mechanic (Arizona) just changed out the fuel pump on it for like $325 total, he used a genuine replacement fuel pump, not an off-brand. A thousand dollars is WAY too high, unbelievable.

[mishalah]

Originally Posted by MazdaX

So my fuel pump is toast in my suburban and I need to replace it. I found a OEM replacement for 100.00 online and ordered it after hearing a 1000+ quotes from all sorts of repair shops. Anywho , are there any tips or tricks to quickly removing the tank ? I have the walk through from the dealership but sometimes we all find our own short cuts =D

Oh and my starter and my water pump and my rear seal and my tail shaft seal and both sides tie rods haha..god this thing totally took a nose dive.

ADD : This is a 2WD - Single Tank - 1500.

Make sure your "oem" pump isn't from China. They have a life expectancy of about 300 miles from the complaints I read. You'd be just as well off with the Airtex.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by MazdaX

So my fuel pump is toast in my suburban and I need to replace it. I found a OEM replacement for 100.00 online and ordered it after hearing a 1000+ quotes from all sorts of repair shops. Anywho , are there any tips or tricks to quickly removing the tank ? I have the walk through from the dealership but sometimes we all find our own short cuts =D

Oh and my starter and my water pump and my rear seal and my tail shaft seal and both sides tie rods haha..god this thing totally took a nose dive.

ADD : This is a 2WD - Single Tank - 1500.

Beware of the online 100 pump.
To cheap and may kit or may be after market off brand or imported look alike..
Go to your local parts place and tell them you want a Delphi OEM type pump.
Do not let them sell you a Airtex or off brand pump as they are junk.
Even if they have to order the Delphi pump.

[MazdaX]

It's an AC Delco / Delphi one. Airtex is crap so are the others. I've already done my research on it.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by MazdaX

It's an AC Delco / Delphi one. Airtex is crap so are the others. I've already done my research on it.

You are smart there.

But only a 100$ for one is to good to be good.
Good Luck

[Cusser]

And labor can't be more than 3 hours, why I question the $1000 quotes.The fuel tank gets lowered a few inches for access.

At two different places, different years, an '88 Sub and a '94 Sub fuel pump replacements were $400 or less. With the '88 (higher price), shop also replaced the fuel pump relay on the firewall as a precaution. Each was 5.7 liter V8 2WD, older one was 31 gallon tank...neither fuel pump needed to be replaced again.

[mishalah]

Originally Posted by Cusser

And labor can't be more than 3 hours, why I question the $1000 quotes.The fuel tank gets lowered a few inches for access.

At two different places, different years, an '88 Sub and a '94 Sub fuel pump replacements were $400 or less. With the '88 (higher price), shop also replaced the fuel pump relay on the firewall as a precaution. Each was 5.7 liter V8 2WD, older one was 31 gallon tank...neither fuel pump needed to be replaced again.

Would the 42 gal tank on my 4X4 make any difference in procedure?

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by mishalah

Would the 42 gal tank on my 4X4 make any difference in procedure?

Fuel pump is mounted in top of tank.
MOST FUEL PUMP REPLACEMENTS REQUIRE THE TANK TO COME DOWN AND OFF.

[mishalah]

Originally Posted by MT-2500

Fuel pump is mounted in top of tank.
MOST FUEL PUMP REPLACEMENTS REQUIRE THE TANK TO COME DOWN AND OFF.

Been there, done that on my T&C van. I was just wondering if GM had a simpler way to do it. On my ZR-1 I can replace both pumps from the panel that holds the fill tube up on the top of the rear body. You'd think an access panel would be almost mandatory given the inherent dangers in removing the tank.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by mishalah

Been there, done that on my T&C van. I was just wondering if GM had a simpler way to do it. On my ZR-1 I can replace both pumps from the panel that holds the fill tube up on the top of the rear body. You'd think an access panel would be almost mandatory given the inherent dangers in removing the tank.

T&C is not a suburban.
A suburban it is remove the fuel tank to replace the pump.
No danger in removing the tank if done right and the right equipement.

But how did your T&C /ZR-1 get 2 fuel pumps?

[MazdaX]

Also to solve your mystery fuel pump thing. 100.00 is my cost.retail is actually like 275.00. Anywho..I wanted any info on shortcuts to get the fuel tank off not info on bunk pumps. As I already said, i've done my research on pumps.

This tank is big , heavy and looks like a pain in the A to get out especially since its full to the brim with gasoline. Also this suburban is seemingly lower to the ground than other ones of same make / model i've seen.I had to lift the body with a fork lift and put 3 pallets under each of the front wheels just to be able to get to the starter.

I don't have a tranny jack at my disposel but I have a super nice fork lift =D Also are the hose clamps on the 2001 models for the fuel pump module the quick connect style or are they the typical ring clamp ? I'm not too concerner about breaking the elbows for the shot fuel pump but i'd prefer not to screw up the hoses.


On another note - I had an alignment done before crap hit the fan and it was all groovy but it suddenly got insanle hard to steer to the right @ random times and perfectly normal for straight and left hand turns. WTf is wrong with this thing ?

[mishalah]

Originally Posted by MT-2500

T&C is not a suburban.
A suburban it is remove the fuel tank to replace the pump.
No danger in removing the tank if done right and the right equipement.

But how did your T&C /ZR-1 get 2 fuel pumps?

The T&C van has only one fuel pump, but it also requires dropping the entire tank to get at it and the sending unit. I'd guess it's similar to dropping the Suburban tank.

The ZR-1 has two pumps because it has two sets of injectors. The primary pump is always on and feeds the first 8 injectors while the second pump kicks in with the second set (normally around 3000 rpms). That's because the LT5 engine requires a lot of fuel and air at WOT and one pump just doesn't cut it. It's interesting that GM (actually Mercury Marine/Lotus) felt the big block Suburban pump was best for pushing all that fuel at 7000+ rpms. Apparently, they had a lot of confidence in the Delco pumps. At least they had the sense to make them accessible if one or the other failed.

[mishalah]

Originally Posted by MazdaX

Also to solve your mystery fuel pump thing. 100.00 is my cost.retail is actually like 275.00. Anywho..I wanted any info on shortcuts to get the fuel tank off not info on bunk pumps. As I already said, i've done my research on pumps.


On another note - I had an alignment done before crap hit the fan and it was all groovy but it suddenly got insanle hard to steer to the right @ random times and perfectly normal for straight and left hand turns. WTf is wrong with this thing ?

I'd check your tires for a slipped belt or separation. Far too many tires are also coming in from China and are not the same quality as we were used to.