Zero 1k clearcoat over basecoat after 15mins

[TurboGuru]

Hi guys

This is the first time I am using the Zero range of products from hiroboy on a current build. (Zero Basecoat Paint + Zero 1k Clear Coat)

I've noticed something on the instructions of the 1k clear coat that I'm finding confusing to understand...

Leave Basecoat Colour coat to flash off for 15 minutes or longer, then apply 2 or more single coats of lacquer allowing 5-10mins to dry between coats.

Normally, when spraying acrylic based paints I've left them to cure for 4-5 days and then apply a clear coat.

If the texture of my paint looks slightly rough (very very fine grain) after 15 mins, should I go ahead and just spray the clear coat... if the coat is of a certain thickness will it hide this texture? .... I'm not really talking about orange peel here.

If I do see very fine texture then would it be advisable that I sand it down using micromesh first, and then go ahead with the clear coat. Clearly I'll need to begin sanding when the paint has fully cured?

Thanks

[Macio4ever]

Zero base coats are dull (matt) by definition, so you will have sort of texture after painting. Polishing is not that necessary (when there is no orange peal). When you spray clear (1K) it will melt a bit base and will level out. When in doubt I would proceed with test spray.

Curing time is very dependent of layer thikness, temp, humidity etc.

[klutz_100]

Originally Posted by TurboGuru

If I do see very fine texture then would it be advisable that I sand it down using micromesh first, and then go ahead with the clear coat. Clearly I'll need to begin sanding when the paint has fully cured?

Absolutely not!

Unless you have sprayed at too high pressure or from too far away, you will have a delicious creamy satin coat of paint on your model waiting to be brought to life with a clear coat.

My limited experience with Zero 1K has shown me that it has a tendency to develop orange peel so you will probably want to thin well, apply several moderately light coats at lower rather than higher pressure. Maybe with light sanding in between - but only life will show if that is necessary

[TurboGuru]

Hi guys

I actually sprayed some 1k on a scrap piece (pre-painted with a zero base colour) just before I wrote this post.... whilst waiting for it to dry I wanted some thoughts on the subject.

Klutz, I see what you mean, looking at the piece now (its still drying) that the 1k does have some thickness to it, and very mild orange peel but its nothing bad really and I know that with some micromesh and polishing it will look fantastic.

I will consider thinning the 1k next time round as it will probably save me from sanding out too much orange peel.

thanks for the advice!

[Macio4ever]

If you have problems with Zero 1K I would try Gunze Super Clear which I used and it seems to be quite forgiving when well thinned. The same with Finishers 1K

[daniel_k]

well I used zero 1k on several projects and always hate me for using that stuff on any build :-)

if you have paint reactions, even if the paint looks perfect it can happen after a week or so..at least I had that two times already..a miracle

or you can leave it dry for at least a week sand it polish it any it looks just perfect. handle that part for final assembly and suddenly you have your fingerprints pushed into the paint really deep ...looks like the paint is getting softer over time

but I guess it's only my bad look because I saw some amazing finishes with zerpaints

daniel
-germany-

[Didymus]

Originally Posted by TurboGuru

Normally, when spraying acrylic based paints I've left them to cure for 4-5 days and then apply a clear coat.

Definitely not necessary with urethanes like Zero. Fifteen minutes is plenty of time before the next base coat.

If the texture of my paint looks slightly rough (very very fine grain) after 15 mins, should I go ahead and just spray the clear coat...

Yes, follow the instructions. The clearcoat will cover that texture. My experience is that sanding between urethane coats isn't necessary except to smooth out dust specks or other problems. But urethane is pretty soft and it's very easy to sand through it. So if you sand, you'll probably need to give it another coat.

I don't think the idea of "curing" really applies to urethanes. They "flash" (appear dry) almost instantly, and are sandable in about an hour. Urethane base coat is supposed to be a very thin color coat. It's not intended to be hard and durable like lacquer or enamel. The clear coat provides the durability.

I've never used Zero 1k clear coat, so I'm not sure how long to wait before sanding/polishing it. If it's properly thinned, it may not require sanding at all. I have used 2k urethane clear, and it can be polished straightaway. Rule of thumb: No coarse texture = no sanding. (With 2k clear, orange peeled clearcoat is a sign that it was sprayed either too thick or from too far away.) Tamiya Coarse removes fine orange peel and 2000-grit scratch pattern very nicely.

A common point of confusion regards "tooth" or "key." Enamels and acrylics stick better when they're applied to a surface that's a bit rough. That is not true of lacquers and urethanes. An old coat and a new one will melt together and adhere just fine.

Ddms