The dreaded P0410 code

[K5Calamity]

You won't be effective at troubleshooting a fault if you don't have in depth knowledge of the system which is at fault and other systems which could be affected by the system at fault. Sounds like you got started, but then peetered out. God knows troubleshooting isn't easy.

Purchase a factory service manual and an EVTM (electrical/vacume troubleshooting manual) for your car. Study the afflicted system in depth, gain a thorough understanding of it, then do what is necessary to fix the problem. Marvel mystery additives are laughable at best. If you take this free advice, you will thank yourself when it's finally fixed and good as new.

Or plan B, sell the car and adopt a new set of headaches.

[ChevMali99]

Thanks for the reply. The main purpose was to figure out what exactly is the cause for the code and ultimately getting the car ready (all sensors OK) to pass emissions. The only hold back was the evap sensor (test inc). From what I've done so far, I've figured out what is not the causing it. Devoid of further thinkering, I'm down to faulty HOS sensors. The fault might caused by crappy wires, connectors, or the sensors themselves. The additive got the evap sensor to complete test ok, remove the P0410, and get the car ready for test. My guess is they actually got the appropriate fuel mixture condition to cause the HOS give off the right voltage to the PCM.

Is the additive the cure for what truly causes the code? Of course not. But if my options for passing inspection are use the mystery automotive placibo, or shell out $$$ to have some guy experiment on the car, as it's usually the case with mechanics knowadays since the inception of sensors... Well you tell what would you do?

BTW - I did pass inspection. The P0410 code is back, but I have another 365 days before the next inspection. The car runs fine, and if I ever come up with some extra bucks I might actually have a mechanic experiment on the HOS. Who knows - I might try myself.

[K5Calamity]

The ECM kicks that code when the emmisions levels it expects to see are not met. In other words when the ECM turns the air injection pump on, it expects to see a drop in emmisions. Now either your engine is putting out excessive emissions overall that are higher than the air pump can overcome to bring them down enough to the preset level the computer is expecting to see, the air injection system has a fault, or your O2 sensors are sending bad info to the computer. Pick A, B, or C. There is no easy answer to fix this and you're probably gonna need a mechanic with diagnostic equipment to help. Being able to hook up to the cars ECM and watch real-time data on what the sensors are doing might help lead you in a good direction. Plan B is to just start shotgunning it by changing parts. If your gonna do that, I would suggest the H02 sensors 1st.

You know more about your cars history than any of us, just keep in mind tailpipe emissions are affected by a great many things.

[ChevMali99]

I had a 5 day weekend and ran into some money, and for the sake of finding out what's the solution to this code I invested in buying a the special socket required for removing O2 sensors. There are 2 of them, one in the back of the engine (exhaust manifold I guess) and the other on top of the converter under the car. Not an easy feat to get done since space is very limited. At any rate, got two Bosch sensors... installed them and... well... care to guess?

The code is still there.

[K5Calamity]

Ok, that couldn't have been cheap. Probably would've cost less to have it looked at by a GM service center. They could have looked at the signal being sent to your ECM and told you whether they were good or not.

I know you don't want to, but it might be time to let the professionals have a look. Sorry it didn't work out better for you though.

[ChevMali99]

Actually removing and replacing the two sensors by myself was cheaper than having a technician do it. The special wrench and socket cost me $30, the sensors were $150 combined. Of course I'm not factoring the cost and the level of convenience (or inconvenience) by doing this on my own, beyond the pride and satisfaction of doing something yourself and learning something in the process. But one could guess it would add maybe $200 more to that.

You're right though, it might just be time to take it to a professional. Luckily for me I have whole year to do that.

[K5Calamity]

Well it's just too bad is all. Now you will also have to incur the expense of having it looked at by a technician. I hate to say it, but it may even be a glitch in the engine computers software. So difficult to say without having the proper tools available to look at it.

[ChevMali99]

As a quick follow up. A day or so after I posted last, the check engine light shut off on its own. I thought nothing of it since it has happened a few times before, but upon hooking up the OBDII I noticed that there were zero codes and all sensors were ok! It appears that replacing the two HO2 sensors did the trick!

[JAMMBluesman]

Originally Posted by ChevMali99

Surely you jest. But the Evap sensor was, as well as the rest of the car, ready for test - or so said my OBDII - after only dropping half of that additive. So the mystery juice 1 - BS P0410 (along with HOS, bad mechanics, and ripoff dealers) 0.

Maybe when I get some bucks to splurge I could help the economy by actually paying a mechanic and allowing him to play musical parts on the car to only have him ultimately tell me "bring it back tomorrow". I'll take my chances with the additive... so far so good.

LOL, That A'Boy ChevMali99, U GO!!!!

JAMM

[johnholl]

Originally Posted by ChevMali99

Surely you jest. But the Evap sensor was, as well as the rest of the car, ready for test - or so said my OBDII - after only dropping half of that additive. So the mystery juice 1 - BS P0410 (along with HOS, bad mechanics, and ripoff dealers) 0.

Maybe when I get some bucks to splurge I could help the economy by actually paying a mechanic and allowing him to play musical parts on the car to only have him ultimately tell me "bring it back tomorrow". I'll take my chances with the additive... so far so good.

I don't think the 3.1L engine has an air pump. Am I wrong? Does this additive realy work? And for how long. The code stayed off last winter, i think it has somthing to do with the ambient temp i think the pcm stays off for the secondary testing if it's below freezing