2001 Grand Prix GTP - Rack Pinion

zepol · #1 11-06-2009, 12:19 PM

OK....I have a couple of questions regarding replacing the rack and pinion. What exactly is the "Sub frame" that I have seen mentioned in the previous rack and pinion threads?

Also I am unemployed at the moment and wanted to know if I can get away with an Autozone/Checker Auto rack for $250.00 or would you say that I should definately buy the GM Direct rack for $550.00 or so. Either way I dont have the money at the moment but I wanna be prepared because I'm leaking power steering fluid like a mofo!

Zep

richtazz · #2 11-06-2009, 12:37 PM

the "sub-frame" is the heavy cradle that all the front suspension pieces, engine and trans are attached to that is bolted to the stamped uni-body. Make sure you get the R&P for the electronic variable suspension, as all GTPs 99-up were equipped with it. Since it was standard on GTP's, your car will not have the NV7 "option" code in the SPO options list. The NV7 code applies to SE and GT models only, as it was optional on them.

zepol · #3 11-06-2009, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by richtazz

the "sub-frame" is the heavy cradle that all the front suspension pieces, engine and trans are attached to that is bolted to the stamped uni-body.

Thanks bro! OK So without being under the car or ever really paying attention to the frame of the car the multitude of times I have been under there....The sub frame can be lowered by jacking up the vehicle after loosening the bolts that are attached to the uni-body?

Quote:

Make sure you get the R&P for the electronic variable suspension, as all GTPs 99-up were equipped with it. Since it was standard on GTP's, your car will not have the NV7 "option" code in the SPO options list. The NV7 code applies to SE and GT models only, as it was optional on them.

From what I have been able to gather the one w/Magnasteer is what I am going to need right?

CrazyHorst · #4 11-06-2009, 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zepol

The sub frame can be lowered by jacking up the vehicle after loosening the bolts that are attached to the uni-body?

I would not recommend this without some serious thought.

Couple reasons. What I refer to as the "cradle" (containing engine, trans, A-arms, suspension on the tubular structure) is quite heavy...and so you have to think about jacking and supporting the vehicle, then doing the same thing with the cradle.

With a twin-post hoist you can set the entire cradle on a solid or rolling pedestal and release it from the unibody.

Also use caution with the cradle bolts...they are big and long and the nuts are captured inside the fabricated "frame rails" of the underbody. They can get rusted and if the captured nut gets boogered you will have to slice a hole in the motor-rail to change it out.

Last issue is the alignment of the front cradle also influences the front end alignment of wheels and tires. There are lineup pins used at the marriage point of the chassis and powertrain basically lining up the cradle and the underbody. But I'd strongly recommend a front end alignment if you ever drop the cradle. 'Course if you change the rack then I think it might be par for the course once the steering wheel is recentered and you need to set toe-alignment again.

I hadn't looked over the repair procedure for quirks but it would seem that the steering rack would slide out one end or the other after you had released the tie-rod ends. I have been wrong many times before however.

zepol · #5 11-06-2009, 09:33 PM

Crazyhorst...Thanks for the heads up. Ha ha. I guess I won't be trying it that way then.

I guess is that I'm trying to find out what the "Correct" way to do lower this sub-frame is. It's my understanding that there is a clearance issue when trying to pull the rack out of the driver side and the sub frame must be lowered in order to get it out.

Every write-up that I have seen mentions lowering the sub-frame or cradle. http://www.automotiveforums.com/t964..._prix_gtp.html and even here http://www.clubgp.com/cgi-asp/mods.asp?modid=71 on another board.

I'm sure once it's explained to me and I get under the car I will see how to do this but I don't see an explanation of how to lower the sub frame anywhere.

HELP!

BNaylor · #6 11-06-2009, 10:21 PM

The second link is not a bad write up but has a major step omitted or out of sequence. You should remove the intermediate steering shaft (ISS) from the rack & pinion steering gear before dropping the rear of the subframe. Undo the ISS pinch bolt. Then you use at least two hydraulic jacks to support and lower the rear part of the subframe. Do not lower the subframe too far. Just enough to pull the rack out of the driver's side.

Also be sure to use new subframe bolts torqued to 133 lb-ft.

tblake · #7 11-07-2009, 10:54 AM

Not sure if anyone mentioned, but 550.00 for the Rack from GM sounds a little steep. Is that for a new one or a rebuilt one? I thought rebuilt GM ones ran about 270.00 when I replace mine.

BNaylor · #8 11-07-2009, 05:48 PM

The $550 looks like the cost for a remanufactured GM rack and pinion gear assembly with Magnasteer/variable steering. GM list price is $983.78. I guess if you shop around you can find a better price. I've had good finds with GM OE parts (NOS - new old stock) on EBay.

Tim, I hope you didn't get the one without Magnasteer.

.....

tblake · #9 11-07-2009, 10:18 PM

Oooops! Do ones without magnasteer still have an electrical connector? Because mine had a 2 wire plug near the steering input shaft that needed to be plugged in.

BNaylor · #10 11-08-2009, 07:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tblake

Oooops! Do ones without magnasteer still have an electrical connector? Because mine had a 2 wire plug near the steering input shaft that needed to be plugged in.

I don't think so Tim. It sounds like you are OK. If it didn't have the electrical connector then I would worry about it. The Magnaster wiring harness goes back to the electronic brake and traction control module (EBTCM).

richtazz · #11 11-08-2009, 09:04 PM

TIm, the non-magnasteer rack has no electrical plug/sensor so if your's has one you're fine. GM has two reman R & P lines. One is OEM warranty certified (the expensive one), and one is re-boxed by an independent company (like Cardone or Lares) for AC-Delco (the cheaper one). Although if being quoted by a dealer, he could be getting quoted dealer retail (or list price) which is a steep mark-up on the cheaper version. It has been my experience that both are equally dependable, so I'd find the lesser priced one.

zepol · #12 11-09-2009, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tblake

Not sure if anyone mentioned, but 550.00 for the Rack from GM sounds a little steep. Is that for a new one or a rebuilt one? I thought rebuilt GM ones ran about 270.00 when I replace mine.

Looks like a new one to me. I am getting the price from the http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ web site. After shipping etc. it comes out to Be about 700.00 w/core charge etc. Too steep for me especially right now. I hadn't thought about buying a rebuilt GM R&P.

zepol · #13 11-09-2009, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BNaylor

The $550 looks like the cost for a remanufactured GM rack and pinion gear assembly with Magnasteer/variable steering. GM list price is $983.78. I guess if you shop around you can find a better price. I've had good finds with GM OE parts (NOS - new old stock) on EBay.

Tim, I hope you didn't get the one without Magnasteer.

.....

Wow..I see what you mean about looking on eBay. I hadn't thought about looking for a remanufactured OE one. I found one for $261.00 including ground shipping at http://stores.ebay.com/GARO-STEERING that includes a 2 year warrenty and they will give me back $95.00 if I ship them my old core back. This actually gives me hope that I can afford one soon. LOL

Hey I want all of you to know that I really appreciate all that you guys do. I have been helped with many issues in the past here and you guys are always right on with your information. Not only have I probably saved a ton of money doing things on my own with the assurance that nothing else is being fudged with

I don't trust mechanics LOL. There may be some trustworthy ones I just havent found one yet.

richtazz · #14 11-10-2009, 02:11 PM

Zepol, there would be no core charge on a new one. Only reman products have a core charge, so they can get your old unit back and rebuild it to sell again.

zepol · #15 05-13-2010, 10:32 PM

Just as an FYI I just got the rack and pinion today. I am going to try to do this sometime this week. I will let you guys know how it went. I got a pretty good deal off of ebay. $155.00 including shipping and a $20 core rebate with return shipping label included. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2001-...item255a2e3af5

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