99 Windstar - how to replace struts & rear shocks?

[MasterChief]

I would appreciate any helpful advice that folks can share regarding the replacement of the front struts (drivers is leaking), the rear shocks and the inner tie rod (drivers side). I know I will need to rent a spring compressor. Any tricks or things to watch out for? My 99 Windstar has 120K miles. Thanks!

[phil-l]

I replaced the rear shocks and front struts on my '00 Windstar, and I consider it a reasonable DIY job. See pictures of my project below. Don't forget to read the text I added to each picture:

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/560513401mTnRfu

A few notes to help clarify the pics:

I bought the cheapie Harbor Freight spring compressor (IIRC, around $10 on sale) and it worked fine. I modified it to make it easy to compress the spring while the compressor is "upside down", which helps on this job.

The factory service manual will claim you need to remove the halfshafts in order to replace the struts. You don't! This is an important trick that will speed the job and avoid complications. The pictures describe this better than I can.

Remove the windshield cowl to guarantee easy access to the top of the strut (I tried to avoid this on the first strut; it wasn't worth the hassle). Now that you've got easy access to the back of the engine, go ahead and replace the spark plugs while you're at it.

An impact wrench helps smooth this job quite a bit. Personally, I wouldn't do this job unless I had air tools. It's tough to wrestle the nut off the top of the strut with hand tools; it's a trivial task for an impact wrench.

The rear shocks are very straightforward; nothing particularly tricky.

I can't comment on the inner tie rod, so I'll leave that one to others.

USUAL SAFETY DISCLAIMER: Use appropriate safety equipment when working with suspension springs. There's a lot of energy packed into a compressed spring! Use the spring compressor with care, and don't forget to use whatever spring safety hardware is included with your compressor. Always use appropriate jack stands when working under a raised vehicle. Safety first!

[northern piper]

I replaced the inner/outer tie rods, LCL, struts (with quickstruts), sway bar end links last year. Search on my username and you'll see a pretty extensive write up. Of major importance when replacing the inner tie rods is to insure the pin which locks the tie rod to the rack is properly installed. The ford service manual doesn't mention it, only loctite. I think the subject line was "horrible experience" or something to that effect. The job you're considering isn't that bad. I did the job of removing the struts without even using a compressor which Phil eluded to. Make sure you have a manual or alldatadiy.com for torque references.

Piper

[northern piper]

Forgot to mention, the inner tie rod on my 2000 had to be removed with a crows foot style tool, not the "long" socket style which slips over the end of the inner tie rod. If you plan on doing the job, take a look at the style of inner tie rod on your van before starting. I had to scramble to find a tool of this sort while my van was apart. Luckily my local Ford lent me their tool (for 2 dozen donuts I might add) to get the job done.

Piper

[MasterChief]

northern piper & phil-l

I appreciate your comments. Work has me traveling for the next week but I will get on this repair as soon as I get back.

phil-l - the pictures are great. This is why I love the web and appreciate the time folks take to bring their knowledge and experience back to those of us who need to know. I really appreciate it! You rock!!

[phil-l]

I'm pleased to be able to help. I've been able to complete jobs like this because of the efforts of others who were willing to share!

Please let us know how your project works out.

[northern piper]

Something else to consider. Do you have a shop that you trust that can do an alignment after you replace the tie rods? If so, I'd suggest you take the van there first, have them look at the whole front end suspension for wear. I opted to replace the entire suspension as most components were within 6 mths of likely repair anyway. A trusted shop will give you this info. It also establishes a relationship and understanding that once you've completed the work they'll be getting you back for the alignment, which must be done when any tie rods are replaced.

[joeuser742]

I use 2 sets of those spring compressors from harbor freight. It does two things, puts less pressure on the compressing tools and if one does break, then you still have 3 in place.