hey guys, long time no see!

[outofstep]

So turn on , I hear 2 clicks one under hood and one near the hood latch.

[Tony]

dont know about the clicks under the hood unless its your starter solenoid switch. The starter circuit is a simple circuit, apparently from your ignition switch to the relay is good. Now you need to make sure voltage is getting to your starter solenoid switch. If you have a voltmeter or know someone who does, have someone turn the key over and check the small wire at the starter to see if your getting voltage there, and if you are, how much voltage. You should have full battery voltage coming to it right there, if not you have an issue in your wiring and need to fix it. The least bit of resistance in the starter circuit will cause the starter not to work, 1 ohm of resistance is too much. If you are getting full battery voltage(at least 11 volts) to the starter, start checking your big wires at the starter. One should have battery voltage the whole time, the other should get battery voltage when the key is in the Start position.

[outofstep]

ok i picked up a multimeter today after work, it's raining atm, so when its dry i'll try that, as for the check engine light, it hasn't come back on, it was on for around 2 days and hasnt come back yet. but i'll keep ya posted. thanks

[outofstep]

ok so i checked the 2 wires going to the starter. the little wire had no current and the bigger wire had 11.5-12v , so i assume the little wire is the problem, i tried to follow to where it goes, but it goes into a big cluster of wires and unless i cut that open not too sure where it leads to. i was thinking i could just cut each end and run a new wire to the fix the problem, can anyone tell me where the other end of the wire goes to?

[outofstep]

actually correction, i wasnt turning it over i just had to 'on', i'll try again tomorrow

[turtlecrxsi]

So did you figure it out yet?

And I thought only OBD0 codes were hard/short flashes only for B-series and just short flashes for d-series. My PM6 always had short flashes. Good test would be to pull the speedo cable out of the trans and count 17 flashes...

[outofstep]

yea it was 13 short flashes for sure, but ever since i filled up the gas tank, i no longer been getting that code, as for the starting issues, i believe its the neutral switch. anyone ever change one of these? i seen the switch under the steering column, someone said i could bypass the switch or replace it. anyone know how to do either?

[outofstep]

ok i made a little plug the same size as the remote wire that plugs onto the starter, and it connects to a wire that i have secured near the battery, so i can touch it on the battery when i want to start ( in neutrual of couse lol )
so this is a temp fix till i can get the switch and some help on putting it in. i believe i have located the switch above the clutch assembly, but its pretty tight up there so i couldnt tell how/what would be needed to swap in a working switch. i also debated on putting a toggle switch on the current wire setup and running it into the dash somewhere so i have a switch start lol, sorta a cheapo pushbutton starter. I do think i still have a power drain however leaving me to remove the battery hot cable. any one got tips for me to track down the leak?

[Tony]

Your safety switch is located on the pedal assembly, right above the clutch pedal. If the relay is clicking, its not the safety switch because power is getting to the relay. You have an open in the wire somewhere between the relay and the starter signal wire(the small wire) Remember anytime checking the signal you need someone cranking it over to test it, otherwise you have no current flow going to it. And just remove the wire from the starter when your testing it, so you don't have to worry about it. I couldn't tell you for sure which wire from the relay is the starter signal, but I would check there and check at the starter. If you have voltage at the relay coming out, but not at the starter, there is an open somewhere between. I could find out where the connector would be at to test between them, just will be tomorrow.

[outofstep]

is the relay the little black box thing thats attached above the hood popper? its got like 4 wires give or take coming from a plug thing? looks like a black wire with a white stripe on the starter side and one of the wires coming off that box.
i've been tapping the wire rig i made so i havent had to push start, and i know the starter works cause it starts right up when i tap the wire to the battery. so i got it narrowed down to that lol.

also i do have a powerdrain somewhere i dont know if these problems are related or not. im gonna try to track down that next, just not sure what to do.

[Tony]

Yes that is the starter relay, there is 4 wires coming off of it. I forgot to check the wiring on it today, but I will get it soon, I am off work tomorrow.

[Tony]

Ok, its the Black/Red wire coming from the relay. On the wiring diagram it is showing it runs to the fuse box #2 under the dash, and then out to the starter. Only has one connector after the fuse box and that is at the strut tower, I believe the rectangle connector with all the grease in it.

With the key in the "Start" position, check for voltage at the relay on the Black/Red wire. If no voltage is there, the relay is your problem. If there is voltage there, double check at the starter with the key in the "start" position. If still nothing there, check your fuse. If the fuse is good and your meter is capable, switch it to the Ohms function and check the resistance between the relay and your starter, should be like .1 ohm I believe, something really low. 1 ohm of resistance is way too much for a starter, so if you have high resistance, you have a loose connection. if you have no resistance, this means there is an open.

Just have to check all the connections: relay, fuse, connector, starter. Once you find where you have voltage and find a point where you lost it, its between those 2. If there is no connection between them, gotta trace the wire and find it.