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  #1  
Old 08-14-2009, 05:25 AM
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kaho kaho is offline
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Mr. resin surfacer?

Hi,

Does anyone have any experience on the gunze sanyo Mr. Resin Primer Surfacer? I am working on some resin parts using normal Mr. Surfacer 1000, but have always wondered what are the differences between the two.



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Old 08-16-2009, 04:55 PM
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Re: Mr. resin surfacer?

I have the spray can version of that. The only difference I could tell is that it seems "thinner" and does not cover as well (might not have mixed it well enough or had been old store stock) and smelled different...almost like they had mixed Future Floor Polish into it...almost.

But other than that...worked well. I might just have to pull it out again and test it to see if it "sticks" better to resin than regular primer.

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Old 08-17-2009, 06:14 AM
UKPonchoMan UKPonchoMan is offline
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Re: Mr. resin surfacer?

I had the same experience - gave it a try once and put it away... The Tamiya primer seems to be the best stuff, especially given it's a lot cheaper than Mr Surfacer...
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Old 08-17-2009, 10:06 AM
Porsnatic Porsnatic is offline
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Re: Mr. resin surfacer?

I really doubt it. I had tried both and to me for a lot, the Gunze primer is the best. Just watch after you shoot it that there's almost no texture on the surface, the opposite to the tamiya that give you some texture. Maybe will be a little bit expensive, but, when you had paid a little money for the best stuff?





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Originally Posted by UKPonchoMan View Post
I had the same experience - gave it a try once and put it away... The Tamiya primer seems to be the best stuff, especially given it's a lot cheaper than Mr Surfacer...
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Old 08-17-2009, 02:35 PM
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Re: Mr. resin surfacer?

So I have question as well - if I must paint so resin parts - is any different beetwen mr. resin and basic surfacer ? is Paint keep stronger on resin parts painted with mr. resin?
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Old 08-17-2009, 05:33 PM
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Re: Mr. resin surfacer?

Supposedly yes.

But if you use the good proven practice of thoroughly washing the parts to remove the mold release agent, and sanding the entire surface with a fine grit sand paper (like 1500) to give teeth for the primer to adhere to, then you probably won't need any special primer/surfacer.

I think it's just a matter of building style. I always think it's risky to depend on resin primer, so I just handle my model carefully, like taking extra time when removing masking tapes.
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