2000 Windstar IMRC intake runner control Removal (how to)

[MrCreosote]

QUESTION: How do you remove IMRC module or access its link rods?

DISCUSSION: The clip for the front runners is gone and the linkage is just laying there.

I find a very good replacement clip at Auto Supermarket (Help parts Clip Assortment - the little yellow one) and it seems to be perfect EXCEPT that the metal link rod does not want to go all the way in to its tang stop. In fact, the way the link rod is bent, the rod END is at the square hold in the arm. So after a few cycles, the arm pulls itself out of the clip so that only the very tip of the arm is barely engaged.

I attempted to bend the link rod a little and unfortunately, I popped the inner end of the rod off and it looks like I broke one of the barbs on that white clip. So now I have to get at the arms to perform some reworking.

I was thinking that maybe I could take the IMRC module off and fix everything but I simply cannot see how that might be done.

It looks like there is a vertical metal mounting plate on the INBOARD SURFACE of the IMRC with OUTWARD FACING SCREWS (!!!!)

Since this plate is right up against the LHS of the manifold, the only way in there is with an wrench which is impossible because the only access behind the metal plate is FROM THE TOP which is completely blocked by the intake manifold.

As far as I can see, the intake manifold isolator bolts and the two-part plastic runner assembly must be removed to access the IMRC. In fact, I think with all this removed, I can rework the rods without removing the IMRC.

So have I gotten things about right regarding my options?

Thanks in advance,
Tom

PS. I'm tempted to rework the link arms completely with small carburetor cotter pins like in 1960's carburetors. I feel compelled to do this becaue of the kinematic error of the front link rod - it should not want to pop out of a tightly snapped clip.

[catvents]

You can remove the IMRC without removing any other parts, it is not easy to acces but I just did it 2 weeks ago; it is held on the manifold with 3 bolts. See the 2 following links for the illustration. Also I recommand you get the clips from a Ford dealership ( not cheap, 5 to 6 dollars each. Part number F5RZ9F955AB ) the actuator rods have to move freely to open the 2 manifold runners and I"m not sure other type of clip would do the job correctly. But no matter what you will install, you will have to remove the IMRC to install the clips and pay attention for not loosing them while you install them. See the links,
http://www.ford-forums.com/attachmen...2-windstar.jpg
http://www.ford-forums.com/attachmen...2-windstar.jpg

[MrCreosote]

Thanks for the picture! Clearly, I didn't see those mounting arms - I was looking where the module was attached to the metal plate stamping which had the arms on it.

You mentioned the Ford part number F5RZ-9F955-AB.

Can you comment on another posting on this forum where they state for the 2000, the part number is XF22-9559-AA?

I think earlier versions of the IMRC consisted of vacuum actuators.
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I just checked Dorman who is notorious for supplying the most obscure parts and found that they make these clips. It is Dorman Part Number 470998: (Note: This crosses the F5RZ part number. No cross given for the XF22. Since the Dorman parts looks like the right part, I would think that it is. I like how they give you FIVE of them(!) )

https://www.dormanproducts.com/cgi-b...gory_list=:0:0
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I just ordered a set from Advance Auto Parts. The set of 5 clips cost $2 and change(!) (I just learned that the merchandised Help! products are Dorman. I'm just so used to Dorman's classic orange box...)

As far as what Ford charges, Way to go Ford, you Greedy B######S
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Regarding reports that Ford parts guys saying you have to buy the $400 IMRC module to get the clips because the clips are not available.... Well, while that is not true, it WAS true for a broken plastic throttle pedal for the Dodge Viper. The little plastic piece you push with your foot would break and your only recourse was to buy a new $1200 pedal assembly. And to make matters even more wasteful, it actually looked like it was reasonably priced at $1200. The pedals were adjustable, and all the parts were machined - there were no castings or stampings. We're talking machined billet aluminum lever arms on slotted shafts with set screws and threaded rods with spherical rod ends. It looked more like a cross-ram dual quad linkage system than anything else. On My!

[MrCreosote]

Catvents, regarding your excellent, much needed photos:

In your Top View, the lower arm runs downward along the module body and then for about the last 1 inch, is bent at about a 20 degree angle to get at the correct transverse location of the arm with clip.

Well, mine, in the exact positioning as yours (lower link along module body), the tip of the rod end lines up exactly with the lever arm (not shown.)

When you push the rod end into the bushing, you must push it in approximately 1/4" which pulls the rod away from the body of the module.

This rotation of the rod results in the rod end not being perpendicular to the clip in the arm. One might question this misalignment.

If the clip is supposed to operate like a limited angle sperical rod end, then I suppose it is OK. If not, then the rod end is in misalignnment and may explain why clips tend to break.

Nevertheless, I am going to assemble the unit as intended by Ford.

I wonder how many 10's of thousands of miles I drove around with the front bank in low speed position? (I was hoping mine was stuck in the high speed position which would imply an improvement in fuel economy when fixed, however, that wasn't the case.)

Thanks again,
Tom

[wiswind]

Actually, from what I have read.....the CLOSED, low speed position is the fuel saving position.
This is the position that they are in (closed) most of the time.
The OPEN is for a power boost during Wide Open Throttle (or close to it).
However....with 1 open and 1 closed......you ended up with an unballanced situation between the front and rear banks.....which would likely not help fuel economy because the PCM was trying to ballance out a unballanced motor.

[MrCreosote]

Actually, the bank that got disconnected was in the OFF position, so for low speed operation, everything was balanced.

Now, at first thought, one might think this would have little effect on economy since only high speed would be compromised on one bank.

Actually, I suspect there may be a reduction in fuel economy because gasoline engines are their most efficient around 3000-4000 rpm (max torque or BMEP) at full throttle.

I suspect this condition would be high speed runner setting so if one bank was stuck on low speed, I believe engine efficiency would be reduced and hence fuel economy.

We'll see. A lot of people say they get 15 mpg around town, but I get 13-14. Who knows. Can't wait to see what happens. (I sure wish I knew when the IMRC link rod fell out of the front bank...)

Thanks in advance,
Tom