It's me again - urgent help neeeeeded - arghhh i killed my model!!!

[h3lldriver]

Hi everyone,

i just taped my model with tamiya mask tape and a sprayed some minor details. after removing the tape the clear coat is damaged. and only on the spots where i used the 10 mm tape. the larger parts where i used the 60 mm tape aren't damaged.
the clearcoat is Gunze Topcoat. it's dry in my opinion. i gave it more than double then time i normaly gave before masking and had never any issue like that before.

now my question on you - what should i do next?

sand it with 2000 and paint a new layer of clear?
sand it and polish? wax it?
and when polish or wax which type/manufacturer?

would be great if someone knows a good way to get back to a nice and shiny finish...

regards

Stefan

[jano11]

Try to polish it with Tamiya/Gunze/Finisher compounds.

[MidMazar]

As jano stated i would polish it out, see if that does the trick. If not then try sanding it with fine sandpaper and then poilsh it out. Also don't use wax, if you do you have to wash the wax off before painting or clearing again. Show us some pics, how long did you wait for the paint to dry?

[lingeringsoul]

i remmber the nasty surprise when I first did that............wasn'thappy at all, from that day onward....i always leave it for a week before putting any tape it. I just sanded it down and put another coat on and polished it again.

[Didymus]

Odd that the small Tamiya tape caused the problem. Their wide tape seems stickier to me. Oh well.

Others have suggested trying to polish out the marks. (Could they be residue? Sometimes it's hard to tell them apart. But I've never seen a residue problem with Tamiya tapes.) Regardless, I agree that compounding should be your first resort. I particularly like Tamiya Coarse.

Wax is a bad idea and so are car polishes, including Scratch-X. They're risky because many contain silicones that won't readily accept new paint.

Are you trying to avoid re-clearcoating the entire model? I'm pretty sure Gunze Topcoat is a synthetic lacquer like Tamiya TS-13. If it is, it's possible to invisibly "touch up" small areas. Just lift the edge of the masking tape around where you plan to spray. The new clear will blend seamlessly with the existing coat.

Best wishes for a successful rescue.

Ddms

[Macio4ever]

Gunze Top Coat (blue can) is a acrylic, alcohol based clear (like Tamiya X-20). Excelent but needs time to cure. I had the same problem. In my opinion the only thing you may do is: let the clear cure, sand it with 2000 grit or higher than respray with clear coat.

Gunze Clear (grey can) is like Tamiya TS paint and cures much faster

[klutz_100]

Originally Posted by Macio4ever

Gunze Top Coat (blue can) is a acrylic, alcohol based clear (like Tamiya X-20). Excelent but needs time to cure.

maciek, kup sobie suszarka do grzybów - 100zł w Auchan

Not in a dehydrator

[Didymus]

Originally Posted by Macio4ever

Gunze Top Coat (blue can) is a acrylic, alcohol based clear (like Tamiya X-20).

Then, AFAIK, you can't patch it like you can TS.

It's always seemed to me that clear acrylics are softer than syn lacquers. That could be part of the problem here.

Ddms