98 3.8l cooling fan fuse blowing

[CnlK]

Was asked by a friend to take a look at their car, overheated in a drive-thru, suspected cooling fan problem. Found blown 40amp maxi fuse in the underhood fuse panel. Installed another fuse, fans fired up and then turned off which I suspect was normal, then had her turn AC on, fans weren't operable then. Checked fuse and it was blown again. I don't know if fuse blew after initial start up or after AC was engaged. Any common faults to look at? It looks like there is a large resistor wired just prior to the drivers side fan. And car was involved in a front end collision this winter, bumper is shifted, wasn't aware of any other radiator or front end damage. Any suggestions appreciated.

[brcidd]

I'd unplug the fans, then see if the fuse blows when they are commanded on, this would narrow down whether or not the actual fan motor(s) are the problem- if fuse does not blow- then I'd wire a 30 amp inline fuse to power the fans separately- decide which fan is bad if the inline one blows- and replace the bad motor-- or if the 40 amp original fuse blows without the fans plugged in-- I would look for the short circuit- (frayed, cut wires etc) between the fans and the fuse center...

Good luck

[CnlK]

Thanks for the tip. There is a plug between the two fans, I'll unplug that one which would disable the pass. side fan and see if fuse blows. It appearred as if the drivers side fan was wired directly to that resistor block. Wondering if it could get by with one fan? Hot summer temps would probably be a problem. Has anyone had that resistor fail? Would assume that would cause a higher amperage draw if resistance was less than specified. Hoping its not a bad wire as car was in a collision this winter.

[CnlK]

Had a few minutes today. Unplugged the three wire connector at the driver's side fan & installed new fuse. Pass. side fan is operable and fuse doesn't blow. At this point one fan is better than none. She is looking to unload car as transmission is slipping.