Anyone seen an internal hydraulic TO bearing?

[eric1h]

I was taking some measurements for the LS1 swap and the clutch arm clearance may be an issue with the way the LS1 clutch arm mounts. The solution is to use an internal hydraulic setup. ANyone know of or seen one that fits the 3550 transmission we have?

I have seen a few "universal" kits but they want $600+ for them. I already have the clutch master and all the lines, just need the slave/throwout bearing.

[panozracing]

Originally Posted by eric1h

I was taking some measurements for the LS1 swap and the clutch arm clearance may be an issue with the way the LS1 clutch arm mounts. The solution is to use an internal hydraulic setup. ANyone know of or seen one that fits the 3550 transmission we have?

I have seen a few "universal" kits but they want $600+ for them. I already have the clutch master and all the lines, just need the slave/throwout bearing.

For a long time we have been using the Mcleod internal TO....

http://www.mcleodind.com/product_guide.html

We went thru about 6 external willwood POS and gave up on them (I think I have a few new and rebuilt if anyone wants them). The Mcleod TO works perfectly and I think it costs about $350. You can call Walt at ProMotion for all your clutch to rear end needs.... He is the master with Tremec trannies too....

http://www.promotionpowertrain.com/

We also run a road race version of one of the heavy duty Mcleod clutches. We had too much torque for the quartermaster setup and on top of that its tough to setup and is expensive too.

[eric1h]

Originally Posted by panozracing

For a long time we have been using the Mcleod internal TO....

http://www.mcleodind.com/product_guide.html

We went thru about 6 external willwood POS and gave up on them (I think I have a few new and rebuilt if anyone wants them). The Mcleod TO works perfectly and I think it costs about $350. You can call Walt at ProMotion for all your clutch to rear end needs.... He is the master with Tremec trannies too....

http://www.promotionpowertrain.com/

We also run a road race version of one of the heavy duty Mcleod clutches. We had too much torque for the quartermaster setup and on top of that its tough to setup and is expensive too.

have you ever tried the Howe racing Hydraulic or tilton? The how racing is about half the cost, but not sure if it will work.

Did the GTS's come with an internal hydraulic throwout bearing?

[panozracing]

Originally Posted by eric1h

have you ever tried the Howe racing Hydraulic or tilton? The how racing is about half the cost, but not sure if it will work.

Did the GTS's come with an internal hydraulic throwout bearing?

NO the GTS came with a willwood external slave cylinder. They were a constant problem on both cars. They leaked and had engagement issues (at least that is what I remember). I have rebuild kits, rebuilt ones, and new ones if anyone wants them.

We only tired the Mcleod. It worked perfectly and we left it at that.

[eric1h]

Brian, I assume your 3550 has the 26 spline input shaft

[panozracing]

Originally Posted by eric1h

Brian, I assume your 3550 has the 26 spline input shaft

Actually, Our cars both came with 3550's. We destroyed them with torque. They are not meant to have more than 475 flywheel torque. So we rebuilt one and ebayed it (got good money for it). My awesome tremec guy rebuilt the other one and made it into the TCET4617/8 (I cannot remeber which) known as a TKO http://www.tremec.com/English/media/...utogen/TKO.pdf

The TKO is the current GTS spec tranny. It is much stronger and comes with a billet shifter. He also did some upgrades on the internal shifter "forks" and some other stuff (nothing expensive). Then we bought 2 new ones which we also had the same upgrades done to it. This has prooven to be a very durable and reliable tranny for us with close to maximum spec'ed power running thru it.

Both versions of trannies have had the 26spline input shaft.

While we are on the tranny subject. I HIGHLY recommend anyone removing the tranny and clutch to have a machine shop make you a very accurate aluminum clutch centering/alignment tool. The plastic ones you can buy at Auto stores doesnt cut it. Make a very tight tolerance peice and the tranny will slide right into place. The plastic ones will make you fight for it. Been there and it isnt fun.

[eric1h]

Thanks, looks like I'll need to swap the input shaft out of mine and replace it with a 26spline GM shaft, otherwise I'll have to add spacers and things to make it fit. I plan to replace all the seals and replace all the "easy stuff" while its out, we'll see how long it last and if needed I'll have to rebuild it or buy another one.

I am trying to find a junk one to use for mock up but they are hard to find.

[Panoz26]

Yo... would it not be easier, more reliable and ultimately, less expensive to go with a different tranny and rear?

[eric1h]

Originally Posted by Panoz26

Yo... would it not be easier, more reliable and ultimately, less expensive to go with a different tranny and rear?

i dont think so, for a couple of reasons.

1. the logical choice would be a T-56 f-body tranny, its about 45lbs heavier and quite a bit larger.
2. I think fitment would be an issue, the tranny is pretty well shoehorned into the tranny tunnel with about an inch or less all the way around.
3. I would need to get a custom driveshaft
4. Instead of needing a new input shaft i would have to get a new output shaft to mate the T-56 to the existing driveshaft yoke.

The parts for the new input shaft is only about $250 and an easy 30 minute swap. I would still need to the hydraulic TO bearing, that wouldn't change