Stablizer Bar Issues Windstar 1999 SEL

smata67 · #1 01-19-2009, 04:04 PM

The bar bushings look crushed and the link boots are cracked. Do I need to replace the links or just the boots? The links would be Ford parts, right? Seems like suspension parts are best as original. The bushings obviously need replacing. Sometimes there are harder aftermarkets that might work better, is this the case here?

There was some "clunking" when turning sharply, this was the cause right?

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12Ounce · #2 01-19-2009, 05:00 PM

There are some aftermarkets avail for the links ... and some with grease zerks ...Wagner I think. The link replacements from Ford seem to be lighter ... would make a wee insignificant difference in unsprung weight. The rod bushings I bought from Ford. Makes a noticeable difference when its all replaced.

tripletdaddy · #3 01-20-2009, 04:29 AM

If you are talking about the sway bar links that connect to the strut, forget Ford's. Maybe they have made them better, but I like the TRWs, though I don't recall if they have grease zerks or not. Having them would be good. I was NOT impressed with the links Ford had because they had weany ball joints. The TRWs are nice in that they are a solid rod with two real ball joints on each end. I expect to never have to replace the new ones. Ford used even worse junk on the Taurus, a white nylon "dog bone" looking thing that wore out about 75k and the boots were torn. There was no grease in them for awhile. The nylon wore too easily I think.

northern piper · #4 01-20-2009, 06:49 AM

I used moog sway bar links and they have the zerk fitting. They work great - I'd suggest them. As for the sway bar bushings, make sure you measure correctly. They come in 20.5 and 22 mm if I remember correctly. Your clunk is likely from these weak components. Then (if you haven't already) you need to check the inner/outer tie rod ends, shocks, lower control arms... It can get kinda crazy and pricey!

Piper

smata67 · #5 01-20-2009, 12:56 PM

My sawy bar is the 20.5mm, it has a blue stripe on it, which probably indicates the size.

I picked up the Moog Sway Bar Link K8702 ($30.99), it does have the grease fittings. I also got the Moog Bushing Kit K8794 (20.99). These are the black bushings, I think I saw some orange ones available through Rockauto, but these were the parts available at the local Advanced Auto. I should be good to go, couple of things first, though.

The Ford Technical Service Publications CD procedure has you replacing the link bolts (they are in the Moog kit, so I'm good there), front sub-frame bolts, and the bushing bracket bolts.

Firstly, do you need to drop the sub-frame to get at the bolts? It looks tight, but might be do-able.

Second, should I really replace the sub-frame and bracket bolts? No size or type info is given in the manual. I plan on re-using them, though we all know sometimes things don't go as planned. I'll be stranded if they break, I'll be doing the work at a local base that has lifts available.

Also, I found an aAutozone procedure indicating the use of a "Rubber Suspension Insulator Lube (E52Y-19553-A). The bushing kit is dry and does not come with any type of lube. I've seen some people using teflon tape here, but I do not want to go that route. I'm thinking silicone grease, any comments?

smata67 · #6 01-20-2009, 12:58 PM

My sway bar is the 20.5mm, it has a blue stripe on it, which probably indicates the size.

I picked up the Moog Sway Bar Link K8702 ($30.99), it does have the grease fittings. I also got the Moog Bushing Kit K8794 (20.99). These are the black bushings, I think I saw some orange ones available through Rockauto, but these were the parts available at the local Advanced Auto. I should be good to go, couple of things first, though.

The Ford Technical Service Publications CD procedure has you replacing the link bolts (they are in the Moog kit, so I'm good there), front sub-frame bolts, and the bushing bracket bolts.

Firstly, do you need to drop the sub-frame to get at the bolts? It looks tight, but might be do-able.

Second, should I really replace the sub-frame and bracket bolts? No size or type info is given in the manual. I plan on re-using them, though we all know sometimes things don't go as planned. I'll be stranded if they break, I'll be doing the work at a local military base that has lifts available.

Also, I found an Autozone procedure indicating the use of a "Rubber Suspension Insulator Lube (E52Y-19553-A). The bushing kit is dry and does not come with any type of lube. I've seen some people using teflon tape here, but I do not want to go that route. I'm thinking silicone grease, any comments?

northern piper · #7 01-20-2009, 01:28 PM

So it sounds like you've got the new components down pat. Make sure when you install the sway bar links that you put them on so the zerk fittings are free to be greased. They usually have a "top" or "front" sticker on them if I remember correctly.

The sub frame bolts do need to be removed and the sub frame lowered. I did so working side to side and lowering using 2 bottle jacks. (I don't have a lift luxury you do!) By lowering the sub frame this way you can free up about 2 inches which easily allows you to remove the sway bar bushings. I didn't replace the sub frame bolts or sway bar bushing bolts either time I've done this job. Make sure though that you torque them to the proper spec. If the sway bar bushing is tough to get on you can put it in some hot water to soften it up although I didn't need too.

Piper

smata67 · #8 01-20-2009, 03:51 PM

I have the Chilton's Labor Guide, this is what it has for this work:

Labor Time Severe Service
Stabilizer Bar, Replace .8 .9
Stabilizer Bar Bushings, Replace .5 .6
Stabilizer Bar End Kit Replace
one side .8 .9
both sides 1 1.1

Does that mean the shop should be charging me .5 + 1= 1.5 hours for this job? That would mean its going to take me at least 3 hours. Might be worth farming this one out...

northern piper · #9 01-21-2009, 08:15 AM

you know what? this is a pretty easy job. You gotta remember the mechanics time is pretty slow. I'd bet you could easily do the job in the time quoted. Just for laughs call a local ford dealer and ask them how much for what you want done. I'd bet it'd be way more than you want to spend and a job that'd be done with less attention than you'll give. If you've got a lift you're all set. Go for the job yourself!!

Piper

tripletdaddy · #10 01-22-2009, 02:48 AM

The book rate should be up to 2.6 hours...times $75/hr = $195. A dealer may not let you use your parts either.

Piper, did you have to completely lower the subframe or will the bolts hang low enough to work on the bushings? Do you do the back two or all four bolts?

northern piper · #11 01-22-2009, 08:02 AM

according to FSM, (which I followed) you just need to do the rear 2 bolts. I was doing the job on the ground so I lifted the front end up on both sides at the lift points, put jack stands under, then moved the bottle jacks to the area at the sub frame mount. I removed the bolts while slowly working side to side lowering a bit at a time. After a couple of "back and forths" I had the sub frame lowered about 1.5 inches. This allowed me to get a wrench in and remove the sway bar bushing bracket. Once it's off the bushing removed easily. I cleaned up the sway bar a bit and stretched the new bushing on. Then torqued the bracket to the proper value. I know that one of the bolts at the bracket is really hard to get a torque wrench on but the other isn't. I torqued the one I could and made sure the other was equally tight by feel. Then I worked the 2 subframe bolts back up and torqued them.

1 thing the FSM does say is that you should detach the stabilizer bar end links on the struts. I didn't both time and had no trouble. When you leave them attached the sway bar rotates down enough (in my case at least) that I had access to the bushing bracket. YMMV

Aside from feeling a bit unsure of just loosening and removing the rear subframe bolts, which worked fine (and is according to the FSM) the job was easy. I've replaced the bushings twice now (pot holey where I live) and I bet the second time took 20 minutes total.

Piper

smata67 · #12 03-11-2009, 06:46 PM

Finally did this work. Used all Moog parts, the 20.5mm bushings and the links with the zerk fittings. I did not have to lower the subframe at all, the bushing bracket bolts came straight out. I would advise anyone doing this work to be sure to have two 18mm wrenches (one open end, one closed) on hand to undo the nuts securing the links. Also, a mini socket wrench, you will use both to slowly unscrew the nuts, they are a bit tough to get at and the bolts securing the links, being under the car and exposed to the elements, were tight all the way up until the nut comes off, it was slow going. Also, the portion of the sway bar under the bushings was pitted and rough. I polished up with a wire brush, but I would have preferred to replace it with a new one, but did not have one on hand. You can always buy it and return it if you decide not to install. The bushings were pretty torn up inside where it contacted the bar. I used silicon grease in this area for the new install. The steering appears much tighter now and I don't hear the "clunking" that was evident on the steering wheel extremes. I was working under a lift that made things easier, still took 4 hours. I don't see how you guys get this work done on backstands, getting all the bolts out required leverage and it was slow going. I would consider this a moderately difficult job due to tight access to the requisite bolts and having to work under the vehicle.

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