MFH Ferrari 512BB LM - Alex's Next Double Build

[360spider]

Originally Posted by Robi J

If you want to talk with him, I guess you should do it over me since Alessandro doesn't speak English. If you want, feel free to send email to my private address, I'll forward to him

Concerning your update... oh Alex, what a beautiful tiny doors !!!!!

Bye: R

Thanks for the warning Robi, I thought the wheels were small, but didn't check the size yet...
I emailed with Alessandro few times back and forth using translator! not very convenient, I know...

Originally Posted by jano11

Amazing work!
Can we have a tutorial on the making of these doors?

Ioan, well, this thread is a tutorial of sorts, there is really not much more to it. If there is anything you want to know in more detail, just ask here...

Originally Posted by gionc

Fantabulos.

Alex, I remember the thing Roby is writing about, I sold my Fisher's 512 but I still own the awesome 312P, and I think they share same wheels. In case you don't own one we'll check fors size and in case replicate rims, I'll get same issue on my MFH Sunoco 512, just started.

Gio, no, I don't have any Fisher kits. If you decide to go ahead and cast a few copies of Fisher rims, could you please (pretty please?) cast two sets for me? And then, maybe you could send them to me together with 166MM seats? Just giving you hard time buddy, I would really appreciate if you could cast it when you will be casting wheels for your 512.

Originally Posted by CrateCruncher

Nice! What thickness is your brass? It looks thicker than .005, maybe .010? Does the .005 crack, too floppy?...

Yeah, it is .010, .005 is too thin, and will not hold shape very well.

Thank you all!

[gionc]

Oki my friend, I'm sure Paul Fisher wouldn't mind and would be proud to have his stuff in your MFH.

Now: I'm doing mold for the pre-serie of a new proto and I do fisher rims too: this night I post here differences between two models rims.

Aha, this is the confirmation that to be an avid collector would have a sense, sometime Ok, this night a preview, than we decide if Alessandro smoke too much or is in good grace of modeler's gods

[360spider]

[jano11]

Originally Posted by 360spider

Ioan, well, this thread is a tutorial of sorts, there is really not much more to it. If there is anything you want to know in more detail, just ask here...

Alex, you are right this thread is already tutorial like!
To me this looks like the best way to produce a nice and strong enough copy of an opened door on a scale model, however I never did work with metal sheet before.

First of all what thickness is the brass sheet you use? I suppose you experimented with different thickness sheet and the one you kept is the adequate one to this process.

I know you used the other kit to shape and bend the metal sheet.
What I'm interested to know is how do you bend it to get the right shape. Doesn't the metal tend to come back, even if only slightly, to the plane shape?

Do you cut the metal sheet to the right shape or rather an approximate shape and than use abrasive tools to get the final shape?

I suppose that soldering the various bits together would somewhat deform the final assembly after it cools down. is it the case? If yes, than what is your remedy to such phenomenon?

I think this is all I need to know, for now!

[360spider]

Originally Posted by jano11

Alex, you are right this thread is already tutorial like!
To me this looks like the best way to produce a nice and strong enough copy of an opened door on a scale model, however I never did work with metal sheet before.

First of all what thickness is the brass sheet you use? I suppose you experimented with different thickness sheet and the one you kept is the adequate one to this process.

.010 is the best thickness for this type of work, everything that is thinner tends to be too flexible, and thicker is out of scale and hard to bend.

Originally Posted by jano11

I know you used the other kit to shape and bend the metal sheet.
What I'm interested to know is how do you bend it to get the right shape. Doesn't the metal tend to come back, even if only slightly, to the plane shape?

Mostly using my hands. Sometimes you need to create a buck that you use to shape the metal, but that is only on very complicated curves. I also use a lot of various pliers and small hammers. Brass does come back slightly, but you can also heat it with a gas torch and it becomes more manageable.

Originally Posted by jano11

Do you cut the metal sheet to the right shape or rather an approximate shape and than use abrasive tools to get the final shape?

Approximate shape (but still very close to the final shape) and them finessed it with diamond needle files and sanding boards, etc.

Originally Posted by jano11

I suppose that soldering the various bits together would somewhat deform the final assembly after it cools down. is it the case? If yes, than what is your remedy to such phenomenon?

I think this is all I need to know, for now!

You just bend it back together, but deformation is rather small, almost impossible to tell. The key to soldering brass quickly, is to make sure the parts are clean, securely fastened together, and to heat both brass parts in the place of soldering to the point that they will melt the solder by themselves, not using the soldering iron or torch. Only then you will get a proper joint.

[jano11]

Originally Posted by 360spider

.010 is the best thickness for this type of work, everything that is thinner tends to be too flexible, and thicker is out of scale and hard to bend.


Mostly using my hands. Sometimes you need to create a buck that you use to shape the metal, but that is only on very complicated curves. I also use a lot of various pliers and small hammers. Brass does come back slightly, but you can also heat it with a gas torch and it becomes more manageable.


Approximate shape (but still very close to the final shape) and them finessed it with diamond needle files and sanding boards, etc.


You just bend it back together, but deformation is rather small, almost impossible to tell. The key to soldering brass quickly, is to make sure the parts are clean, securely fastened together, and to heat both brass parts in the place of soldering to the point that they will melt the solder by themselves, not using the soldering iron or torch. Only then you will get a proper joint.

Hi Alex,
Thank you very much for the answers.
I'll try this out in the near future.

[gionc]

Sorry Alex for delay but MFH rims needed some cleaning job like you will guess:



W Fisher rims



Comparison:



I tried to overlay silouettes

[gionc]

Now Alex what jump at my eyes is the dimension between the front of the car and the front fender... I got the 3M/Iso livery too and from the picts I got it seems not different from this Pioneer car...

Speaking of rims may be the right thing is in the middle, I ever got the impression that also the real BBLM dressed small rims.., if someone ind a data-sheet we'll check for right size.

[drunken monkey]

might be a bit obvious but have you also looked at the Fujimi Campagnolo wheels or would they be totally wrong?

[guiwee]

im with you taliseen there is no way i could even attempt to do what he did..and if i paid upwards of 300 or so dollars i expect it to be a wonder of engineering..not 100hrs of prep just to get everything to fit properly..i understand that these kits are not easy and are only for the very very advncd modeler but jeez. i often thought about buying one of these kits but after seeing all the work involved i stickin with styrene..plus laying out that much money for a kit that needs much work the wifey would kill me and she is very supportive of my hobby.....why is it engineered so badly for so much money?

[klutz_100]

MFH look the closest of the two but.....GOD!! WHAT A CRAPPY FITTING KIT!!!

I admire your patience, Alex

[gionc]

Originally Posted by guiwee

im with you taliseen there is no way i could even attempt to do what he did..and if i paid upwards of 300 or so dollars i expect it to be a wonder of engineering..not 100hrs of prep just to get everything to fit properly..i understand that these kits are not easy and are only for the very very advncd modeler but jeez. i often thought about buying one of these kits but after seeing all the work involved i stickin with styrene..plus laying out that much money for a kit that needs much work the wifey would kill me and she is very supportive of my hobby.....why is it engineered so badly for so much money?

Mmmm, I own several gems from them: 312PB and the Alfa 33 series are fantastic, awesome details with good fitting between parts, 330P are also great to me, not to meant the ex-Climax models like the GTO. I must say this would be one of the more "difficult" kits they done, but to generalize is I think not correct.

Steve, don't you remember it? It was one of the "roundabout" kits
Do you remember those pizza when we inspected all our first hiros? People thought we was nut

[jano11]

I agree with Steven.
When compared to the wheel arch dimensions the MFH wheels give a closer proportion to those from the picture of the original car.

PS: Also the wheel centers aren't the same.

[gionc]

Originally Posted by jano11

PS: Also the wheel centers aren't the same.

Mmmm the Hiro center looks more convincing..

[Robi J]

Hi Guys.

One remark, Alessandro milled down the Fisher diameter

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a163/RJ1108/AP/e1.jpg

he also slightly corrected the wheel arches so the original wheels looked even smaller.

Yes Gio, the Hiro center are more accurate, anyway the BB from Alessandro looked very fine with the Fisher's

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a163/RJ1108/AP/b2.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a163/RJ1108/AP/b5.jpg

(Alex I didn't want pollunting your thread with someone else photos, therefore the direct links).

Bye: Robi