Locked front brakes, brake light out, headlights gone

[MT-2500]

Did that free up both front wheels or just one?
If opening the beeder freed up the brakes the brake system is holding hyd pressure on the caliper.
Start working back to abs module and master cylinder.
You should be able to spot what is holding pressure by cracking open the brake lines at different places.
Crack line at master cylinder to check it.
Let us know how it goes.
Good Luck
To check front brake rubber hose crack the line where it goes into the rubber line.
be CAREFUL NOT TO TWIST OR BREAK THE BRAKE LINE.

Emg brake is just for rear wheels.

[kruqnut]

well i bled the one, and it freed up a bit, went to the other one and it was alittle loose, but there is still alot of contact between the rotor and the pad. Just not enough to lock thetire now. I'm currently in search of a 3/8" allen wrench to remove the brake calipers so i can depress the pistons in them. 10mm is the right size but i just cant get a 10mm wrench in the bolts.

If i find a fault at the abs or the master cylinder I don't have the proper tools to allow myself to bleed the lines properly. The tool is a little clip that costs 25$ i don't know why, is there a way i can do it without the special tool?

By crack the line i hope you are referring to just opening them up, not literally busting the line? :P.

What will be the signs of a component being bad or being the one that prevents my brakes from going back to position? I mean the whole system should be filled with fluid, how will i know whats bad? even if a valve isn't opening. there should still be fluid on both sides of it?

When i bled the lines at the calipers there wasn't alot of pressure squirting the brake fluid out, it just kinda slowly seeped out, only when pressing the brakes did it squirt.

I don't have access to a scan tool and I can't move the truck really so how do i read the codes, if this had been a slightly older truck you can do it with a jumper wire, but since its the VCM controlled ABS system I need a scanner.

[MT-2500]

Go back and reread the post.

[kruqnut]

Originally Posted by MT-2500

Go back and reread the post.

Well i pulled the calipers off they were in bad condition, while trying to press the piston down with a clamp i couldn't untill i released the bleeder pin, so the fluid isn't going back out of the caliper. By the time i bled and pressed the piston in, the other piston had overextended itself.

When I get the new calipers where should I start testing from? the Master Cylinder? When i remove a line below the master cylinder how would I observer that the master cylinder is the problem?should all the fluid from the resevoir flow through freely? If it doesn't flow through does it mean it's the master cylinder?

if my ABS system is currently disabled I should still be able to repair the normal hydraulic function even though it all runs through the ABS pump right?

should I crack the lines below each component? like crack the line below the BPMV and below the master cylinder?

Sorry for being a complete moron, everything just changes everytime I touch it. I'm also on a tight budget right now so I'm trying to only replace what needs replacing.

My brake system goes fromt he power brake pump, to the master cylinder, to the combination valve. Can you tell me the proper order to test each thing in and what to check for? thank you.

Oh right now the flex hoses are disconnected and hanging, no fluid is coming out of them, but theres still fluid in the resevoir.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by kruqnut

Well i pulled the calipers off they were in bad condition, while trying to press the piston down with a clamp i couldn't untill i released the bleeder pin, so the fluid isn't going back out of the caliper. By the time i bled and pressed the piston in, the other piston had overextended itself.

When I get the new calipers where should I start testing from? the Master Cylinder? When i remove a line below the master cylinder how would I observer that the master cylinder is the problem?should all the fluid from the resevoir flow through freely? If it doesn't flow through does it mean it's the master cylinder?

if my ABS system is currently disabled I should still be able to repair the normal hydraulic function even though it all runs through the ABS pump right?

should I crack the lines below each component? like crack the line below the BPMV and below the master cylinder?

Sorry for being a complete moron, everything just changes everytime I touch it. I'm also on a tight budget right now so I'm trying to only replace what needs replacing.

My brake system goes fromt he power brake pump, to the master cylinder, to the combination valve. Can you tell me the proper order to test each thing in and what to check for? thank you.

Oh right now the flex hoses are disconnected and hanging, no fluid is coming out of them, but theres still fluid in the resevoir.

If you have let air get into the ABS module /system it may require a ABS capable scanner to bleed the system.

Get a good factory repair manual or a http://www.alldata.com/products/diy/index.html

Everything is explained in them.
And will be right there with you while you are working on it
Good Luck