-
Grand Future Air Dried Fresh Beef Dog Food
Air Dried Dog Food | Fresh Beef

Carnivore Diet for Dogs

Go Back   Automotive Forums Car Chat > Mitsubishi > Eclipse/Talon/Laser > Eclipse Problem Diagnosis
Register FAQ Community
Eclipse Problem Diagnosis Got a problem you can't fix? Post here and one of our members will answer as soon as possible.
Reply Show Printable Version Show Printable Version | Subscription Subscribe to this Thread
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old 02-11-2009, 02:27 PM
97GSTspyder's Avatar
97GSTspyder 97GSTspyder is offline
AF Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 670
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Send a message via AIM to 97GSTspyder
Pulled the motor...again

So I couldn't figure out why my O2 housing was smoking. After replacing my 14b with a new(ish) Frankenstein 16G, along with all new gaskets, my O2 housing was still smoking. (I left the header on while replacing the turbo, wish I would've taken it off)...I couldn't understand it...Until I let me car idle for about 30 minutes. The O2 housing was SOAKED in oil...and it was from the outside. After examiming the oil feed line and having it check out fine, I was stumped. So I decided to pull the header off. The bottom of the header was soaked in oil, also. I looked at the runners on the head and each one was soaked in oil, same with the runners on the header. I come to find out there was a crack on the bottom of the header. A large one.......

So my conclusion was my rings are fried or my valve stem seals are fried.

I couldn't understand how there could be so much oil accumulated in the runners, but the exhaust (from the rear) wasn't smoking much at all. Most of the smoke was from the oil seeping on top of the O2 housing.

So either way I pulled the motor. I just got it on the stand last night and haven't touched it yet. Was probably going to rip into it later today. So far I'm looking into getting: all new gaskets, seals, rings, bearings, belts, water pump, ARP head and main studs.

Anyone ever ran into a problem like this before?
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 02-11-2009, 04:24 PM
Blackcrow64's Avatar
Blackcrow64 Blackcrow64 is offline
AF Moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 9,621
Thanks: 52
Thanked 24 Times in 23 Posts
Re: Pulled the motor...again

Quote:
Originally Posted by 97GSTspyder View Post

Anyone ever ran into a problem like this before?
Yeah... It's called a DSM.


Sounds pretty brutal if you ask me. How many times have you pulled this thing now? Isn't this lucky number 3? lol
__________________
-Brian
  • 92 Firebird sold
  • 97 Talon TSI AWD sold
  • 05 Cobalt LS sold
  • 02 Tahoe LT sold
  • 06 Cadillac STS4 AWD sold
  • 03 Corvette Z06 sold
  • 14 Silverado 1500
  • 26 Equinox RS
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 02-12-2009, 02:00 PM
97GSTspyder's Avatar
97GSTspyder 97GSTspyder is offline
AF Enthusiast
Thread starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 670
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Send a message via AIM to 97GSTspyder
Re: Pulled the motor...again

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackcrow64 View Post
Yeah... It's called a DSM.


Sounds pretty brutal if you ask me. How many times have you pulled this thing now? Isn't this lucky number 3? lol
Lol no this is the second time since I've had the hardtop. I started on the motor work last night. I almost don't even want to touch the main bearings, the crank end play measured a .011 (metric value)! Still within spec, according to my manual (.05 - .18) with a .25 service limit.

The oil pick-up screen had a bunch of shit on the bottom of it, couldn't tell what it is. Looks like it got clogged up with something, which might explain my low oil pressure (~10psi at idle, fully warmed up)?

Another question I have - anyone ever use the MBCAD kit? (Main Bearing Cap Alignment Dowel Kit). Seen here - http://www.machv.com/conracmbcadk.html

I read an article about something similar to this. Some guy on DSMtuner was saying that he come to find out that when torquing down the bearing bridge and the head to the block, it would throw his crank end play out of whack. The theory is that the actual block is weak, and when torque is applied, would flex the bottom end a bit, creating the chance for pre-mature bearing failiure. The guy claims he made his own dowel kit made out of a certain high-heat material and had the holes on the block side specifically drilled for them, and when put together, creates a 100% perfect tight and secure fit.
I e-mail Machv about these and my answer was "we've never had anyone call us and tell us their motor CW'd while using these, other than that I can't tell you for sure if this is the all and mighty cure for CW".
Just curious if anyone has ever used these before.
Reply With Quote
 
Reply

POST REPLY TO THIS THREAD

Go Back   Automotive Forums Car Chat > Mitsubishi > Eclipse/Talon/Laser > Eclipse Problem Diagnosis


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:33 AM.

Community Participation Guidelines | How to use your User Control Panel

Powered by: vBulletin | Copyright Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
 
 
no new posts