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Old 02-01-2009, 08:36 AM
84nomore 84nomore is offline
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Question ABS pump cycling 3x`s then warning light

Repacked my bearings;installed new rotors;also pads.2006 has 181,000 miles so my rotors were getting worn.The reluctor plate on the back of the new rotors looks cheesey compared to the original and I am wondering if the Chinese use too cheap of meatals for the sensors to pick up or what?The ABS warning indicator came on right after I got the job done.Every time I start the vehicle ,the pump cycles for a long time ;4 to 5 seconds; 3 times.I know it does a self check every time for about half a second.Good thing I can still run with standard brakes.
Been tryin to fix my own cars for about 35 years now , and there always seems to be something new.need class A help.
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Old 02-01-2009, 07:39 PM
rhandwor rhandwor is offline
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Re: ABS pump cycling 3x`s then warning light

Make sure everything is connected. Take some brake clean and remove any excessive greese that may have gotten on the reluctor. Also clean the pickup then unplug the connection to this unit. Put an ohm meter on both terminals
and check if it sweeps the dial as you rotate the tire by hand.
You could also reinstall your old rotors for a test but I don't think this is your problem.
Do a yahoo search for an abs scanner.
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Old 02-03-2009, 11:16 AM
84nomore 84nomore is offline
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Re: ABS pump cycling 3x`s then warning light

Thank you for your reply rhandwor.I will try what you suggested,although here it is sub zero,Mn and will wait for a warmer day.When I first start to drive and brake while the pump is doing that long cycleing thing the vehicle pulls to the right . I will also take your advice and yahoo an ABS scanner. Thank you very much..........Still Tryin
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Old 02-09-2009, 06:07 PM
stuzman stuzman is offline
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Re: ABS pump cycling 3x`s then warning light

It sounds like the reluctor plates since it's a different thickness than the original which would have changed the air gap. Good points made about cleaning up the reluctor and connections, etc. The quickest thing to do is install the original reluctors back on if you still have them and see if the problem goes away.

The procedure I like to use involves a scope set to the AC scale. You can also use a DMM, but set the meter to AC. Then leave the sensor connected and spin the wheel about 1 rev/ per sec. This way you can compare its reading with the other wheel. As the speed of the wheel gets faster, the frequency and amplitute (voltage level) gets higher. You could check the frequency if your meter has this function. The ohms function can be used to check for open windings, etc., but not likely to detect a short in the winding.

I'm not sure of the voltage/frequency spec for your vehicle, but at least you can make a comparison between the two wheels.
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