Starter Runs Continuously

[DrDave1958]

1998 Regal GS 171K Miles, I've owned the car for 7 years.
As a side note: this car has been bullet proof up to this point and I realize things are wearing out and will need replaced, no problem.

Last night I started the car and for the first minute the headlights (well all the lights) went dim then bright then dim then bright, like there was a short to ground somewhere, or an extreme load on the electrical system. It then went back to normal and I drove the car for only a few minutes.

This morning tried to start the car all I got was a click, and when I let off the key (left in the run position), the starter motor continued to run. The solenoid was NOT engaging the flywheel, just the starter motor running. It ran for 20 or 30 seconds then stopped. I tried to start it again and the same thing happened, only this time the motor would not stop. I turned off and removed the key from the ignition and the motor kept on running. I had to disconnect the battery cable to get it to stop. I let it set for a few minutes then touched the cable back to the battery and it started running again.

At first I thought I needed a new starter but the more I think about it, there must be some sort of starter relay or something that is sending juice to the starter and it burnt/stuck.

I can replace the starter or what ever I need (I replaced the water pump a couple of weeks ago and that was pretty easy, although it didn't fix my coolant leak), but where do I start troubleshooting? I was going to open the fusebox? on the fender but I had to get to work.



Any help is appreciated,
Dave

[BNaylor]

My suggestion would be to get the battery and charging system (alternator) tested. Also, double check the battery pos and neg cables and terminals including to the top of the engine compartment fuse box where you see the red lead and cap. The starter has a starter solenoid that will engage the Bendix to the flywheel. It is the "S" input, purple wire. Before the starter solenoid is a crank relay located in the main engine compartment fuse box that energizes at ignition to START. The starter always has 12 bolts B+ applied direct from the battery regardless of whether ignition is ON. So all it takes is an internal short for it to spin. Your issue sounds like a bad starter and/or battery.

[DrDave1958]

Thanks for the advice Bob.
I've been meaning to replace the alternator for a couple of months as it is whining fairly loud and sounding like there's no lubrication left in the bearings. I guess I'll stop on the way home and pickup a starter and alternator.

There's $360 gone fast.

While I have the alternator off, I'm going to check those coolant bypass elbows to see if that is the source of my leak. Can I buy those at an Auto parts store, or do I have to "deal with the dealer"?


Thanks,
Dave

[BNaylor]

Hi Dave,

Yeah sorry to hear that but it sound like you have your money's worth out of your Regal. Really not bad considering the age and mileage.

You can get the coolant bypass elbow at Autozone. I recall in the off the wall parts shelf area. Made by Dorman. However, the GM ones are a little better in overall quality. Since you have a '98 there should be only one plastic elbow to the lower intake manifold. The other port (metal) is part of the tensioner assembly. The one that goes into the water pump. It changed for 1999 and up where GM went to two plastic bypass elbows and redesigned the tensioner assembly.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

[DrDave1958]

Yes I definitinely have gotten my money's worth out of ths car.

Well I got the starter and alternator changed out without too much trouble. I did however manage to break the metal port on the tensioner assembly trying to remove it so I had to get another one of those. But that should cure my coolant leak.

Thanks for your help Bob.

Dave

[stripe]

Originally Posted by DrDave1958

Yes I definitinely have gotten my money's worth out of ths car.

Well I got the starter and alternator changed out without too much trouble. I did however manage to break the metal port on the tensioner assembly trying to remove it so I had to get another one of those. But that should cure my coolant leak.

Thanks for your help Bob.

Dave

When I broke that tensioner the new one came with the elbow.
peed me off as the new elbow cost 30$(bought separatly) and the wheel assembly was only 45$ with a elbow in the box.

Cheers
Stripe

[DrDave1958]

Same here, the elbow came with the tensioner. I had already bought one at Autozone but it only cost me a dollar because it came in a pack of 2 but someone had five fingered one out of the pack. I still ended up the same as you cause the tensioner was $67 plus tax.

Dave