1st car: Paint questions

[Seamus McRae]

Thanks for the advice MPWR, I'll keep an eye out for any probs for future builds using this brand of spray. I agree with you re: Tamiya sprays. Love 'em

[vaindioux]

Hi

I went to Micheals and they don't have any hobby lacquers spray paints.
I stopped at advance auto parts and they have a complete line of dupli-color spray paints which I read several time work well for model car bodies as long as an automotive lacquer is used.
What am I looking for as far as dupli-color? They had only 5 different cans of lacquer but they had a lot of smaller cans called "Dupli-color auto spray", lots of colors in that range (About 40), is that what I need? I try to read the label but no mention of "Lacquer" anywhere.
They had a "dupli-color" sandable primer", is that the primer for lacquer paints? I couldn't find any other primer for dupli-color.

Here is a link to a pic of the dupli-color sprays I saw:

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/autospray.html

Here is a link to the "Dupli-color sandable primer I saw at advance auto parts (It is the one with the red cap on the pic/3rd from left).

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/primer.html

I will buy some Tamiya sprays when I get close to a hobby shop, they are too far just to drive for 2 cans of spray (1 hour each way) but for now I will go with what is close by.

Thanks again

Patrick

[MPWR]

I'd say skip the Duplicolor- at least for now. Even if it's easy to find and cheap, even if they're giving it away at the auto parts store. Some people have good luck with it, and some people don't.

Tamiya lacquer really is worth the effort to get- especially for your first few builds when you're learning to paint. When you've gotten a couple of builds done and you know how it all works, then it's fine to experiment. But meanwhile do yourself a big favor and learn on the good stuff.

If you can't easily get to a hobby shop that stocks it, you can always order it.

[drunken monkey]

It is said by some that sometimes, it's not worth making things hard for yourself when you don't need to and this is one case where it applies.

I have used my local auto-store primers and paints (Halfords in the UK) before to good effect but having gotten back from HK at the beginning of December with a fresh stash of aerosols, the difference the Halfords sprays and the Tamiya sprays is very noticable.
As good as the auto store primer is, it just isn't as fine and hence easy to spray/lay down orange-peel free surfaces.
Whereas it would take a good week or spray/sand/respray to get a decent surface for colour, with Tamiya primer, it can be done in less than half that time. The same is true with their paint. Tamiya paint, out of a can, sprays/lays much better than any other paint I have tried.

In short, if like me you're only using spray cans, Tamiya makes it easier.
In other words, I have found that other brands, while good and useable, makes things harder when they don't need to be.

In a way, this is where the money goes when you pay extra for the Tamiya sprays. The way I see it, the money goes towards having to spend less time to build a kit.

[vaindioux]

Hi

Ok you are right, I will start with Tamiya paints.

I want to paint my Aoshima "Savanna RX-7" either red or yellow.
I noticed Tamiya carries several different red sprays, which one should I get (Mica red, italian red...so on)?
Do I have to prime white prior to paint red or yellow or Tamiya gray primer good enough (I read this here to apply white after primer and before bright color like red or yellow.)

Thanks

Patrick

[MPWR]

Both red or yellow would need to be sprayed on a white primed surface. Grey primer would darken these colors a lot. Tamiya grey and white primers are really the same except for color. Grey primer is very good for preparing bodies for paint- it makes flaws easier to see and correct. White works just fine, but it is harder to see problems in white. You can use grey to prime it first to get the body perfect and then overcoat it with white, or you can skip the grey and use only white. (Personally I like working in grey, but it is a matter of preference.)

A solid color is probably going to be easier for you to use then a metallic/pearl/mica color. 'Italian Red' is plain generic red- like you'd expect to see on a Ferrari. 'Bright Red' is a brighter, more orangish shade of red.

[vaindioux]

Hi

Ok I am dead meat, MPWR is going to let me have it since I didn't follow his advice. Well I tried but failed.
I couldn't find Tamiya lacquer spray paints so I got what they have which is Model master.
I got the gray primer, then white and Italian red.
I will get started with these and see what happens. I still have to get some black to do the little trim around my Mazda.
One question?
They mention on the can "2 part system base+clear", do I have to get a clear gloss from them? High gloss or semi-gloss? I assume yes but I want to be sure.
This gloss step is far away, so I have time to get it later on.

Thanks again

Patrick

[Didymus]

Originally Posted by Scefen

1. When I have removed the mold lines from the body with sandpaper, do I also sand the rest of the body, even if there aren't any molding lines left? (Before I prime the body this is)

Not necessary. After you've removed any visible mold lines, use a toothbrush to scrub it with Soft Scrub or another abrasive cleaner and warm water. Rinse and dry the car thoroughly before applying primer. If there are any other problems, they'll show up after you prime it.

2. I saw that beginners should not use compound or wax...

I can't imagine why somebody would tell you not to use compound on the final coat. It's a lot safer than sanding, because you're less likely to rub through to the primer or plastic. After using 2000 grit to remove any orange peel or noticeable paint texture from the final coat, use Tamiya Coarse compound for the entire car. (Don't use those red and white Dupont automotive compounds they sell in auto parts stores. They are way too strong.) Then go to Tamiya Fine, and then, if you want a high gloss, Tamiya Finish.

Wax is a pain, because it's hard to remove from all the nooks and crannies. You'll be pleased with the brilliant gloss you'll get with Tamiya Finish.

If I sand the last coat of primer to a shine,

Sanding the primer "to a shine" is a waste of time, especially if you use a smooth primer like Tamiya. Just hit it lightly with 1500, making sure you remove any defects. If you use Tamiya spray-can lacquer for your color coat, clear coating is optional. But it will give you a deeper finish, and there's less chance of burn-through during polishing.

Tamiya TS-13 is the best choice I know of for clear-coating.

As to paint and primer brands, you only need to remember three words: Tamiya, Tamiya and Tamiya. There are others; some are very good, but start with Tamiya and you'll be happy.

Ddms

[Didymus]

Originally Posted by vaindioux

They mention on the can "2 part system base+clear", do I have to get a clear gloss from them? High gloss or semi-gloss?

This sounds like one of MM's new super-glossy 2-pack automotive-type lacquer systems. Unlike the Tamiya TS-series, you'll need a clear coat in order to get any shine at all. I doubt that they offer a "semi-gloss"; the clear coat will be glossy unless the label says otherwise.

I haven't used the new Model Master 2-pack system, but I'd definitely stick with the same system - not just with MM paint, but with the same MM paint system. When you buy the clear, read the label carefully to make sure it matches your color coat.

Ddms