Passlock System

[jmoleary]

Thanks to all early posters on putting a switch inline on the yellow passlock cylinder wire. After suffereing stranding for the last time, I acted on my 2002 Malibu. My biggest problem was getting the stupid passlock to work one last time so I could flip the switch to off that I installed while waiting the multiple 10 minutes between tries. I now have the comforting solid-on security warning light as advertised, and am hapilly driving with confidence in starting first try.

[ponchonutty]

Originally Posted by jmoleary

Thanks to all early posters on putting a switch inline on the yellow passlock cylinder wire. After suffereing stranding for the last time, I acted on my 2002 Malibu. My biggest problem was getting the stupid passlock to work one last time so I could flip the switch to off that I installed while waiting the multiple 10 minutes between tries. I now have the comforting solid-on security warning light as advertised, and am hapilly driving with confidence in starting first try.

Great! Just pray to the Lord above that your battery never dies or needs replacement because when it does you will for sure need to spend $600 at the dealer.

Now if you get the nuts to dive into it to perminately bypass it get some resistors, a multimeter, and a solder iron and go to it!

[dmwh]

I'm so glad I found this website. My son's 1999 Pontiac Grand Am also has the security light come on and not start from time to time. We are going to take my son's car to a mechanic friend of ours on Thursday. Our friend said that as long as I can provide the instructions he would be willing to work on the car. I've printed the instructions regarding the PK2 system and resistors. Was there are certain area where the resistor(s) should be placed and if there is, is there a picture or diagram of it? I would like to provide all the correct information to our friend.
Thank you for your help!

[ponchonutty]

No. You can put the resistor anywhere between the ignition switch and the BCM

[serski]

Originally Posted by ponchonutty

It doesn't sound like a PK2 problem with what you state. To me it sounds more like a problem with your battery cables or maybe the ignition switch itself. Usually if it's a PK2 problem the security light will come on while driving. Now, it also could even be a bad BCM too.

Well, Finally got the check enginge/security/battery/locked stereo lights to all come on the other day. So I took it into the dealership to have them diagnosis it. Turns out is was my BCM, body control module. I just had them do it right there and then, picked it up later that day. Cost $400, seems to be working now though. My symptoms were, power locks completley quit working on me. This has actually been happening for the past couple of years, (locks have only been out for about 3-4 months) the wife would get to the gas station, turn car off and not be able to start it until it cooled down she would say. 10 minutes later it was good, no lights for the 1st year and a half. It just started this summer acting up again, but it got to the point where all the lights came on and it was locked and would not start, so I actually disconnected the negative from the battery for a few minutes, put it back on, and presto I was good to go anywhere. (Wife refused to be stranded anywhere, so car is mine until fixed) But, take note, my car is black, not sure if it has anything to do with it, but the problem only seemed to occur when it is humid and over 80 degrees. I drove it for a week before I took it into the dealership trying to get all the lights on and couldn't do it. It was never over 73ish degrees and it was actually a wet rainy week, not much sun, but car operated fine all that week. It just happened to be a nice day the other day, not even 80, but I think the cars black exterior with the windows rolled up, tinted back windows, did it in for the day. I'm not sure what else to add, but this is what happened to me. The dealership confirmed that the BCM was bad. It's been a few days now, and seems to be good in the mid afternoon heat. Oh, one of the other sounds it made, when I first went to start it up, the passenger side light would flicker on the floor and it sounded like there was a little man with a hammer in the glove compartment. Hope this helps someone.... I know it got me going down the right track..
Thanks again ponchonutty...
-Scott

[dmwh]

We left the car off last night with our mechanic friend. He says the instructions are very good. He's going to check everything out to make sure it's not the BCM before proceeding any further.
Thank you for your help ponchonutty, it's much appreciated.

[gen6eric]

Originally Posted by serski

... Turns out is was my BCM, body control module. I just had them do it right there and then, picked it up later that day. Cost $400, seems to be working now though.

I realize you may not have the prior experience to answer my question, so this is for anyone who knows. I just had the BCM replaced in a '01 Alero. The dealer quote for diagnostics, replacement and programming was $525. I realize they are different cars, but does it sound right for there to be $125 difference in my quote and the $400 paid here?

Originally Posted by serski

... It just started this summer acting up again, but it got to the point where all the lights came on and it was locked and would not start, so I actually disconnected the negative from the battery for a few minutes, put it back on, and presto I was good to go anywhere.

Is "acting up again" the passlock problem preventing you from starting the engine (or to keep it going if it did start)? Once again, the 2001 Alero has had periodic passlock problems. We had to have it towed this last time because the 10 minute relearn procedure didn't work.

Could we have avoided the tow by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery before giving up?

Before replacing the BCM for other issues (no door locks, no radio, no interior lights, no chimes) the technician got the car running by "bypassing the security system." However, there were still issues that ended up being resolved by replacing the BCM.

I never could find out what "trick" he used to "bypass the security system." The battery thing would be good to know ... if it works even temporarily for passlock issues.

[ponchonutty]

gen, if you have BCM issues, there's no real way to bypass the system. He probably just reset it and at that time, everything work at that moment so it could start. When you have a BCM problem there's not much you can do even my method of bypassing the PK2 system

[gen6eric]

Originally Posted by ponchonutty

gen, if you have BCM issues, there's no real way to bypass the system. He probably just reset it and at that time, everything work at that moment so it could start. When you have a BCM problem there's not much you can do even my method of bypassing the PK2 system

What do you mean by "reset it?"

It would be nice to think that the passlock issue was solely because of the BCM that was corroded. If so, we wouldn't have to worry about future passlock problems. But, that would be too good to be true, so I'm not holding my breath and will see if my husband will do the "resistor" treatment to avoid future issues.

[dmwh]

Our friend talked to a mechanic he's known for years. The mechanic talked him out of using the resistors because he said they would eventually burn out and then we would never be able to start the car again. A new ignition was put in. The real kicker to me is my son was told that this ignition may act up too. If it does, to put the key to the "on" position for 10 minutes and it will start up. He had already been doing this with the old ignition.

My question...how long do the resistors last and do they burn out periodically?

[slls]

In may 2002 I installed a 2.2 K ohm resistor to by pass my auto head lights, still works. I would say in the ignition system they would only last about 50 to 100 years, your mechanic was untruthful.

[ponchonutty]

Originally Posted by gen6eric

What do you mean by "reset it?"

It would be nice to think that the passlock issue was solely because of the BCM that was corroded. If so, we wouldn't have to worry about future passlock problems. But, that would be too good to be true, so I'm not holding my breath and will see if my husband will do the "resistor" treatment to avoid future issues.

If the technician had a good scanner, he can get inside the BCM and erase any stored codes including PK2 failures. Sometimes just unhooking the battery is enough to do it too.

[ponchonutty]

Originally Posted by dmwh

Our friend talked to a mechanic he's known for years. The mechanic talked him out of using the resistors because he said they would eventually burn out and then we would never be able to start the car again. A new ignition was put in. The real kicker to me is my son was told that this ignition may act up too. If it does, to put the key to the "on" position for 10 minutes and it will start up. He had already been doing this with the old ignition.

My question...how long do the resistors last and do they burn out periodically?

Resistors are inside almost every electronic part. If they burn out so soon then we'd be pitching radios, tv's, microwaves, and even newer refridgerators. Get my drift? Even if they do fail in the PK2 bypass method, just replace them for $3. Yes, even replacing the worn parts is temporary. Just try not to have a huge, heavy keychain and it should be good for another 80k or so miles.

BTW, I've only had to replace the resistors one time out of about 40 cars I've done this to.

[CANTER6]

why wouldnt you be able to reattatch the wire if you had cut it, instead of going to the dealer and having them give you a prostate exam?
I ask B/c i am looking into purchasing an 1998 isuzu hombre with symptoms that sound just like this.
also would any of you know whether this vehicle has passlock 1 or 2.
thanks for the good read alot of great info in here

[ponchonutty]

The hombre is just like the S-10 pickup so it'd be the PK2