87 civic si, new fuel pump new coil. NO START Please HELP!!

87sicvic · #1 08-22-2008, 08:52 PM

I have a 87 civic si hatch, I was driving to work one day when it just died. I towed it home and put a new fuel pump & filter in, got nothing. So i checked the spark from the coil, it was very weak, so i replaced the coil. Now it still won't start. the engine acts like it is trying to turn over, but nothing. Any tips?

aquarius · #2 08-22-2008, 10:48 PM

not trying to be a smart allic but ever think it might be the baterry?

87sicvic · #3 08-22-2008, 10:59 PM

I have hooked the jumpers to it, and still nothing

aquarius · #4 08-23-2008, 12:42 PM

ok thats good........ so does it turn at all or jsut clicks and gets nothign?

87sicvic · #5 08-23-2008, 04:48 PM

It trys but it dosnt like pop. it just makes a turning over noise but like never combust or what-not.

aquarius · #6 08-23-2008, 05:19 PM

you might have bent a valve which wont allow the motor to combust. this is a very common problem me adn my older bro figori both bought our crxs adn that was our problem. to check this take off your valve cover and get some one to bump the starter for you and watch your cam shaft to make sure it isnt freezing up or watch for valves that dont move. hope that might help you some!

87sicvic · #7 08-26-2008, 11:40 AM

I figured it out!!! When i pulled my valve cover and had my dad crank it... the cam didn't move at all so i dug into it and found that the little half moon key that locks the cam pulley with the cam was gone. A little more work then i was hoping for but at least i know what it is now and it's probaly not to serious!!

aquarius · #8 08-26-2008, 02:58 PM

well that is very good news then glad my information was able to help you!

Figori · #9 08-26-2008, 09:41 PM

The D15A3 is an interference motor. I suspect you now have bent valves and need to replace them. I would pull the head off before I did anything else. Go to an autoparts store, buy a Haynes manual for our cars, and get cracking. Otherwise, you're just going to do more damage. Be sure to pick up a new Felpro head gasket while you are there.

87sicvic · #10 08-28-2008, 01:01 AM

Okay so it sounds like it is going to be more then i thought. If i do take the head off and have to do valves... is it even worth the time and cost. I mean i do want the car running agian but it's not my only vehicle so i can do with out it

but i was getting 43 miles a gallon before it broke down. can't beet that!

lxndr · #11 08-29-2008, 05:12 AM

My advise would be to install the Woodruff key (half moon key) then run a compression test or leakdown test to check the valves. If the valves are bent then you can't do any more damage by cranking the motor over for a compression test. If test shows that the valves are bad, yank the head and pick up a rebuilt head from your local autoparts store. If the valves are good then fire it up, pat yourself on the back, and crack open a cold one because you just saved yourself a ton of time and cash.

87sicvic · #12 08-31-2008, 12:08 AM

Lxndr, Thanks for the help. I will let you know how it goes. !!!!Gas Mileage here I come!!!!!!

I-HATE-CHEVY · #13 10-01-2008, 09:31 PM

I have a similar problem myself that I have not quite figured out yet. While driving, like 3mph, the engine just quit. Tried to start, nothing. Luckily it was close so I got it home, pushing it. Did a couple of tests, it has fuel (I also sprayed starting fluid), it has spark (seemed realy good) and the valves are turning over like they should (I removed the valve cover). I have heard that it is possible that it may have jumped a tooth or two on the timing belt, so I went about that, my God, what a frickin' nightmare that is!!! Finnally got the engine down to where I could get the main crank pully off (87lbs of torque on that bad boy), finally got that off and the timing cover off, the belt appears to be just fine. When I rotate the crank with a ratchet, it does seem loose. I am hoping that everything is ok, since the vehicle was not on the freeway or anything when this happened. I guess my question is, if it was going that slow, why would it jump a tooth then? How much slack should this belt have? It has about 1/2" to 3/4" slack, either way.

Any ideas on this? I have no idea what else it could be and I just want to get this thing back on the road.

By the way, anyone ever tells you they can do the belt without taking the engine out is very brave. In hindsight, it really would have been much easier.

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