Adding Info Stalling 1998 Intrigue

[alienintrigue]

I have spent a lot of time reading all the theads and acquired the a lot of information. I would like to post my problem which is simular but maybe a little different. I just bought a 1998 Intrigue 3.8L engine (for my wife) but we are having stalling problems and they usually occur when driving. I can't let her use it yet because you know when the engine dies it is very hard to steer. My symptoms, One day it may work perfect and another day it may stall 10 times, the engine can be warm or just warming. I can be driving or maybe sitting at a red light when it desides to stall. When it stalls usually it will start right back up but the has been times where it takes a few minutes. One time it took almost 30 minutes. If it stalls while I am driving down the road I can usually put it in neutral, start it and keep going. Here is what I see during a stall... I am driving down the road and I see the RPM's drop then the oil pressure light comes on. Radio is still working etc...... No check engine light or codes. No other lights come on. I have replaced the fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter and a vacuum line attached to the fuel regulator. One time it did not start I got out to check and make sure there was fuel pressure and there was. Couldn't check for spark because I was alone. The reason I am posting in such detail is maybe this information will keep me from have to 10 parts before finding the real problem. I look forward to hear the forums thoughts. Thanks very much!!!

[LittleHoov]

One thing to check would be the battery cables, be sure to pull the boots off the ends and get all the corrosion underneath them, dont just clean the visible part.

Its usually only the positive cable that needs cleaning, but check out the negative as well.

Its a free thing to do, and can cause stalling problems if they are bad enough.

[burijon]

How many miles? What kind of preventative maintenance prior to purchase?

I would guess ignition coil or crankshaft position sensor. Both parts are fairly cheap at rockauto. Possibly could be the mass air flow sensor or the connector or throttle position sensor. TPS is fairly cheap as well. MAF is not cheap however. Try cleaning the connectors and putting electrical grease on it.

Another way around all the guessing is to hook it up to a computer and have it diagnosed. Generally with OBDII there is still a 20% + or - either way for sensors. So one could be at the far end of a sensor variance after the motor is hot. Seems more like a heat issue based your summary.

Let us know!

[alejmr]

another thing I would watch out: coolant consumption

[dtownfb]

Considering some of the common problems of the Intrigue, I agree with burijon. It's most likely the ignition switch or crankshaft position sensor. Also you already confirmed the fuel pressure regulator is working. A issue with the MAF would throw a code.

Don't dismiss alemjr advice in checking the coolant consumption. The 3.8L engine is known for its intake manifold gasket failure which leads to coolant loss in the engine.

Good luck and let us know how it works out.

[alienintrigue]

To everyone that helped. The problem was the crankshaft position sensor. Thanks to all......

[bcgoring123]

If there is any body that knows how to install an ignition switch in an oldsmobile intrigue PLEASE write me a message!!!!!!!!!!!!

[LittleHoov]

Originally Posted by bcgoring123

If there is any body that knows how to install an ignition switch in an oldsmobile intrigue PLEASE write me a message!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=736656

bcgoring123, in regard to the email you sent me if it is not cranking, as in when you turn the key nothing happens, theres a good chance the ignition switch is bad. Or at least needs cleaned.

If it is not starting, meaning the starter is turning the engine, but its not firing your problem is most likely elsewhere.

If you are getting a new ignition switch, the cheaper option is to re-use your old lock-cylinder with the new switch. You also have the option of getting a new-lock cylinder which comes with new keys. This is a pain, because the door keys and ignition keys wouldnt be the same anymore. Not as big of a deal if you always use keyless entry, but could still pose a problem.

I believe there is a learn procedure if you replace the switch. I have never replaced mine, only removed and cleaned it. Others may chime in, and you may want to start your own post, because this one may get shut down.