Bouncing at idle?

[bhw33191]

Originally Posted by beat88ls

how long did it take you to do that? i know the last plug on both sides can be a B*TCH... i talked to the guy who owned my car before me and in 150,000 miles he never gave it a tune up... damn. i plan on doing cap/rotor plugs and wires this weekend

Yeah the tune up is definately a must. It increases your gas mileage a little too! When i replaced my cap/ rotor i was surprised the car could even run. The inside components were all melted and chewed up for whatever reason.

[Johncrow]

outa curiosity, how do you adjust the timing?

[silicon212]

Originally Posted by Johncrow

outa curiosity, how do you adjust the timing?

With an inductive timing light and a distributor wrench. Disconnect the computer wires (the 'EST' cable - 4 wires) from the distributor and start the engine, with the transmission in park. Adjust your idle RPM to 800 or so while in park. With the inductive pickup on the #1 plug wire, aim the timing light at the timing tab. You might need to move some hoses out of the way while you do this BUT BE CAREFUL as you can lose a finger or more, should you accidentally touch a belt, pulley or the fan as the engine is running. Look at the VECI label on the radiator fan shroud - you want the timing to match that number. Aim the light at the tab and pull the trigger - you should see the mark on the harmonic balancer and it should be located at some point along the timing tab. On a carb engine, static timing should likely be somewhere between 6 and 8 degrees BTC. On an EFI engine, it should be 0.

If you need to adjust the timing, rotating the distributor clockwise will retard the timing, while rotating counter clockwise will advance it. The distributor rotates in a clockwise direction.

Once you have the timing adjusted, plug the EST cable back into the distributor and double check the idle speed. It should match what is on the VECI label. (VECI = Vehicle Emission Control Information).

[Blue Bowtie]

Clockwise? From the top or the bottom?

If your cooling system is up to specs and EGR is working properly, you should be able to get away with running a 305 with at least 6º of base timing advance, especially if you are using fuel with 10% ethanol. That can help you pick up a little mileage and a bit more power.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by silicon212

With an inductive timing light and a distributor wrench. Disconnect the computer wires (the 'EST' cable - 4 wires) from the distributor and start the engine, with the transmission in park. Adjust your idle RPM to 800 or so while in park. With the inductive pickup on the #1 plug wire, aim the timing light at the timing tab. You might need to move some hoses out of the way while you do this BUT BE CAREFUL as you can lose a finger or more, should you accidentally touch a belt, pulley or the fan as the engine is running. Look at the VECI label on the radiator fan shroud - you want the timing to match that number. Aim the light at the tab and pull the trigger - you should see the mark on the harmonic balancer and it should be located at some point along the timing tab. On a carb engine, static timing should likely be somewhere between 6 and 8 degrees BTC. On an EFI engine, it should be 0.

If you need to adjust the timing, rotating the distributor clockwise will retard the timing, while rotating counter clockwise will advance it. The distributor rotates in a clockwise direction.

Once you have the timing adjusted, plug the EST cable back into the distributor and double check the idle speed. It should match what is on the VECI label. (VECI = Vehicle Emission Control Information).

this is how I check the timing also ....mine is 7.5deg at 800rpm... carb..the only difference is,, I mark the 7.5 and the harmonic balancer with white chalk...this makes the check very accurate...and if I need to adjust loosen the distributor so that it will move with some resistance...


with todays fuels you may have to retard timing to 6 degrees...