93 GrandAm No Power

[93GrandAM2.3L]

The blinker noise would not turn off or start by itself when starting the car, was very random every time. I noticed white puffs of smoke coming from the steering column when I would start the car, and stopped after a couple of seconds. It did that about 5-6 times and before the car lost all power it did smoke the last time the car was trying to start. Had it towed home and checked the fuses inside, replaced the relays under the hood by the firewall and the ignition switch too. Had the battery test and checked the battery cables and all were good and not loose. When I turn the key I get nothing, no dash, radio, interior lights...I only get the headlights to come on. No engine crank or attempt to turn over...I'm at a loss. 1993 Grand Am 2.3L 110,000 miles and would appreciated any help or solution or something I just have overlooked. Thanks!

[J-Ri]

Well, the smoke you saw coming out of the steering column is a great place to start. Find the wires with melted insulation and all the melted connectors and replace them all. I wouldn't be at all suprised if that's the fix (probably need to figure out why there was that much amperage flowing through them too, unless the strands started to break inside and that's why they smoked), but they need to be replaced anyway.

[93GrandAM2.3L]

Replaced both turn signal and wiper switches, found no melted or cracked wires on the harness. Turn the ignition and still no power, no dash or fuel pump noise. Nothing at all still, I am at a total loss and frustrated. Please help

[J-Ri]

Check for power to the ignition switch, and for power to the terminals that should ahve it in the different key positions. You'll need a wiring diargam for that. How did the switches you replaced look? If there was smoke coming out, then something was burning the smoke was coming from a wire or electrical component somewhere. I would personally tear the dash apart and find those melted wires, smoke doesn't just show up, something has to make it.

[93GrandAM2.3L]

Took apart again and wasn't able to test ignition switch wire with a tester. Took upper dash off and didn't notice any burnt wires, when I put the steering column back together I found something. The bottom cover that goes around the Ignition has three Star screws that hold it into place. One of the bolt plastic slots had been melted and cracked that is fastened to the ignition part of the steering column. It wasn't a fast burn, but a slow melt and part of it cracked and melted around the bolt. That would explain the white smoke I saw coming from the steering wheel...I think! So, I didn't fasten that bolt just in case. So, I dragged my butt to the local library and checked the reference for the GM and realized the ignition switch comes directly from the Starter Solenoid. I decided to purchase it and replace as a last ditch effort, so unless ya can think of something else let me know would ya? Thanks for all you help, Tony

[J-Ri]

So the melted part is just a cover?

I don't see how a cover could melt, as there are generally no electrical connections to them, so I'm going to assume it's an electrical component of some sort. I've only been in one '93-style steering column, and don't remember much from it... I can usually visualize a description fairly well, but all I'm seeing here is "Image not available". If the melted part has wires going to it, replace whatever part it is, a bad bolt/screw won't cause it to melt.

The power to the ignition switch comes directly from the battery... the positive cable goes to the starter and then the wire that goes to the ignition switch comes off the same terminal that the battery cable goes to, so as long as the nut on the starter B+ terminal is tight and clean it doesn't even matter if the starter is good, bad, or completely separated from the stud, the ignition switch should have power. The ignition switch then will put power to the starter solenoid if the key is in the crank position. There should be a fusable link in the wire that goes between the starter and ignition switch, if that's blown then it could cause your problems. If the link is bad, replace it with one of the same rating. Replacing it with a regular copper wire or a larger guage link will probably cause a fire.

If you can't get to the connector for the ignition switch to backprobe the connectors, you may have to remove the switch to test it. Just move the sliding part with a pick/small screwdriver to simulate key movement. One other possibility is the key cylinder rack is broken if the switch is on top of the steering column and about 2 feet forward of the steering wheel, the rod type with the switch opposite the key cylinder doesn't have that part. If the key turns very easily, check that the mechanical linkage to the switch is good.