Factory battery hold down 87 Caprice what's it look like?

[deesandvees]

I want to keep my factory battery tray cause it bolts in so nice and all the aftermarket one's I've found are junk. My problem is finding a good way to hold the battery down on the aft side. The other side is held in good because of the nice lip on the tray which goes over the base of the battery. I'm guessing there's some kind of bracket that bolts to the tray using the hole on that side but I can't find one. Anybody have a pic of their factory battery setup?

[rhandwor]

I would make a trip to a junk yard like U-pull-it or any yard that lets you pull your own parts. If it has a hole with a nut welded on it they make a plastic piece that clamps on the bottom hold down on the battery.
Otherwise buy a bar that goes across the top with two cross braces it comes with hold down bolts that are l shaped.
By looking at a yard you should find a couple of types that will work.

[silicon212]

It's a plastic wedge with a bolt in it. They actually sell these at Autozone in the Help section. The bolt is about 2" long, it bolts through the plastic into the tray. Tightening the bolt forces the wedge against the 'lip' on the battery, holding it in place.

[mike561]

yeah its kinda like a triangle shape if i remember, we did one on an impala at work today

[deesandvees]

Yep got it today. Went to Chevy though, only 4 bucks but had get a bolt for it. Damn some standard some metric bolts on this thing! That battery's not going anywhere now!

[silicon212]

The car uses metric fasteners throughout, except for the engine.

[deesandvees]

I had heard that the late 80's were kind of the switchover years. Do 90's cars use metric on the engine so the whole thing is metric or is it still standard on the engine?

That factory setup on the battery tray really is the best way to go IMHO. I found an almost rust free one at the junkyard and sandblasted it and hit it with some duplicolor undercoating. That stuff doesn't seem to ever completely dry though. After I'd put the tray back in the car after letting it dry for about 24 hours in nice weather, I went to take it out and some of the undercoating stuck to the fenderwell. I probably should've just painted it instead of undercoating because I won't be letting this battery corrode or be driving this car in the rain (if I can avoid it, it's not my daily driver). The undercoating is a bit extreme but a good idea if you know it's going to need the extra corrosion protection.

[rhandwor]

I was under the impression that any part designed after the change over was metric. When they redesigned an engine it was all metric. Some metric sizes are very close such as 19mm and 3/4, 22mm and 7/8, 21mm and 13/16,11mm and 7/16, 13mm and 1/2 inch. I purchased metric sockets as needed but eventually got all metric. Due to tooling costs they were aware of some sizes being real close and used these a lot.
A metric bolt has letters on it such as 8.8,10.9,12.9 ect. A standard bolt has 2,3,4,6 marks on it indicating grade. The higher number bolts are harder and have more tensile strength. This is important when working on front end parts or wheels.
Buy a pitch size for both as it is helpful when retapping a bolt hole.

[silicon212]

The original SB engine was SAE throughout its life, into 2003. The LS type engines were designed metric.

The GM cars started becoming metricated in the 70s. My old '75 Grand Am had a few metric fasteners in it. The Caprice is almost all metric, again, save for the engine.

The rear axles were SAE until 1989 when they too became metric. Since my car has a '94 axle in it, it's metric as well.