Quick Question

[me_190]

I have a 302 thats bored to a 308, and a bunch of engine mods ( cam, shaved heads, Headers, Ect, Ect. My question is, would it be possible for me to turn my engine into a 347 stroker, or has it been bored too much? (if that even affects anything as far as "Stroking" goes.

[351wStang]

A stock 302 has a 4.000" bore X 3.000" stroke.
A 347 has a 4.030" bore X 3.400" stroke.
Your 308 has a 4.040" bore X 3.000" stroke.


So, if you stroked it your cubic inch would be closer to 349.

[me_190]

lol, is it possible to find a stroker kit for my engine or do i have to get the individual parts and create my own?
I know my own would get me more of what i wanted if i knew more about engines.

[351wStang]

I'm sure someone offers a "347 kit" for .020", .030", and .040" bores. Some people even build 352" SBF's ( 4.060" bore x 3.4" stroke).

My next SBF will probably be a Dart block 363ci. Thats a 4.125" bore X 3.4" stroke.

I would suggest putting your own parts together.

[lx351]

im not 100% sure but unless you can get your machine work done cheap, then your best bet would be to take your parts off and just buy a short block already stroked, check out Tand L engines.com they have short blocks waiting or will build to your specs, they just take your old engine as a core

[MrPbody]

In our experience, a couple of things here...

A Ford "production" block should be sonic-tested before it's bored to .060". Due to their "thin wall" technology, .040 is considered the practical limit.

The 3.5" stroke in the short-deck block is a liability. The rod/stroke ratio (5.4" rod) is less than optimum at 1.54:1. Anything over 1.65:1 is much more desirable. For that reason, we recommend the "331" stroker for a driver, over the 347. It yields a R/S ratio of 1.66:1. The result is it won't try as hard to "push" the piston through the cylinder wall. Using the taller deck (Windsor block) allows the use of a much better R/S ratio for strokes up to 3.75", using a 6.25" rod. Beyond that stroke, the same logic applies.

Remember, "race engines" (live on a trailer when not at the track, never see street miles) have different requirements regarding longevity, than do street engines.

Lastly, a high performance engine build should NEVER be based strictly on "price". You get what you pay for...

FWIW

Jim

[lx351]

I'm not gonna argue with an "advisor" lol but i'm not a moron and i wouldnt give bad advice, ppl run 347s on the street everyday, and if you visit TandLengines.com you'll see this
Ford 347 A-1 400 HP 400 Torque - $3695
• 3.400 Scat cast steel crankshaft
• 4340 5.400 I beam forged rods
• S/P hypereutectic coated pistons
• Moly file fit rings
• Ford 302 block
• Dura-bond cam bearings
• Block plug kit
• New oil filter adapter
• T&L custom grind camshaft
• Fuel pump eccentric
• Roller timing setup
• Custom gasket set
• Aluminum front cover
• Professional products balancer
• Balancer bolt
• Melling high volume oil pump
• Melling oil pump drive shaft
• Melling oil pump pickup
• S/P lifter
• Dart aluminum heads
• 7/16 screw in rocker studs
• Comp push rod
• Aluminum roller rockers
• Edelbrock RPM Air Gap manifold
• ARP head bolts
• Chrome valve covers
• Chrome oil pan
• Autolite spark plugs
• Oil filter
• New 12pt bolt kit
Labor
• All parts hand cleaned
• Block sonic checked for thickness
• Block pressure tested @40 psi
• Block stroker clearanced
• Block square decked w/BHJ fixturing
• Aligned hone mains
• Bored and honed w/torque plates
• All clearances checked to the nearest .0001”
• Rotating assembly balanced
• Engine blueprinted w/specs sheet on file
• Engine fully assembled and dressed to customer specifications
• Dyno tested

...if you can build a custom stroker for less than that then more power to ya