1989 Buick Electra Park Ave T-Type Timing Chain Cover

[jiveabillion]

I am replacing my timing set on my 1989 Buick Electra T-Type and I have run into some trouble. I can't seem to get the cover to break free. I have taken all the bolts off, but it seems to be stuck where the Crankshaft Sensor goes. I removed the cranshaft sensor, but I can't get the bracket off. It seems that whatever is holding the Crankshaft Sensor bracket in the center is what is keeping me from getting the cover off.

Has any one here had any experience with this and could offer some advice?

[HotZ28]

The CKPS bracket has a dowel pin in the center of the two bolts holding it in place. This dowel pin can become corroded and may need some PB blaster to break down the corrosion so you can remove the bracket. Do not try to force it, or you may break the dowel pin.

[Will Help]

Might be a very prudent move to change out that old CPS while everything is apart at this time.

What do you think HotZ28???

[HotZ28]

Originally Posted by Will Help

Might be a very prudent move to change out that old CPS while everything is apart at this time.

What do you think HotZ28???

Yes, not only replace the CKPS, but any other part on the front of the motor that requires service & disassembly of this section again. As Ben Franklin once said; “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure”. BTW, another Ben quote; “Beer is living proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy”.

[jiveabillion]

Does the dowel that holds the crankshaft position sensor bracket on also hold help hold the timing chain cover on? If it does, then I guess that will solve my problem when I get back to work on it this weekend. If not, what else could it be?

P.S.
I broke part of the crankshaft position sensor bracket off so I will definitely be getting a new Craknshaft Position Sensor.

[Will Help]

I don't remember if the dowel goes all the way through to the block. The cover is aluminum and salt water splashing off the road makes it corrode and the steel dowels can rust. Makes for a bad combination when they combine forces. If it does then the same corrosion that made it too hard to remove the sensor bracket is what is keeping the cover from sliding off the dowel. Also remember that there should be another dowel on the opposite side of the cover which may have the same issues, but does not project beyond the cover face. Be extremely careful when prying against the cover. It will damage the seal area or warp the edge of the cover and it may not seal properly again.

You may need to soak them with a good solvent for a day or so. If it still doesn't want to let go, then spray again and tap the end with a brass, lead or copper hammer( slightly straight on the end )and see if you were able to drive the pins slightly in farther. This might be enough to dislodge some of the corrosive affects and let the solvent penetrate.
Be sure not to hit it at an angle or it will break off. They are usually too hard and slick to get out with a pair of vise grips.

The only other recourse is to see if you can rent a dowel puller and jerk it out. This would only work with the one that is out beyond the cover.

Just remember one thing: The oil pump is mounted in the front cover and replaceing the front cover could be an expensive propisition. However the camshaft front thrust plate is also part of the front cover. If it has excessive wear, then the cover must be replaced.

Some extra info if needed:
1. Timing chain cover Torque---22 ft-lbs
2. Oil pum cover to timing cover torque---96 to 98 in-lbs
3. Camshaft sprocket bolts---26 ft-lbs
4. Oil pump specs.
Outer gear to housing clearance 0.008 to 0.015 in.
Inner gear to housing clearance 0.006 in.
Gear end clearance 0.001 to 0.0035 in.
Pump cover warpage limit 0.002