Trans finally shifts around 7,000 rpm

[rj45lanman]

Has anyone heard of these Cougar's Automatic transmissions shifting at 7k rpm?
The trans itself is strong and doesn't slip in any gear so it's not the clutches. I'm wondering if there may be a common sensor that may be causing this problem. Anyone???

[jakegday]

since the computer stops the engine at 6250 rpms, i doubt anyone has, (assuming its a 1999-2002) but the problem sounds like its your "throttle pressure cable" also known as a "throttle valve cable", every automatic transmission has one, its the cable that goes from your accelerator pedal to your tranny, so when you floor your accelerator, it pulls the cable, which moves a "switch" and "tells" the tranny to shift (for more power/torque obviously) then when you let off the accelerator it pushes the "switch" back, letting your transmission shift back

[samturner]

On my 91 3.8 the throttle pressure cable retaining clip and the small part that the end of the cable fits into went bye bye causing late shifting. Parts to fix cost around ten bucks at the dealer.

[rj45lanman]

You stated that the cable connects to a switch. Where is this switch located, in the trans? I'm not going to be able to look at this car until this weekend so I want to fully understand this. I know about some of the older cars where they had a "kick down" cable. Is this the same thing?
Please tell me more about this switch.

Also, I read a site on the internet stating that there was a TSB filed on 2-2-04. It states
"CD4E Harsh and Delayed upshift / DTC's Stored
Speed Control Diagnostics - W/O SCP"

Pleae explain this...

[jakegday]

yes, this is the same exact thing as a kick down cable, thats another name for it, and i would think that switch thing would be on the outside of the transmisison

[rj45lanman]

I was able to check this out tonight.
I looked over every inch of the transmission and only saw one sensor that may be the one that you are speaking of. The location of this sensor is all the way on the left side of the tranny. I have no idea what the parts are of this transmission so I'm looking on ebay for a manual. All I can find are these CD copies and I have a hard time buying one of those since I got stuck with one last year. The cd was so generalized, it was useless.
By the way, there were only two cables going to the injection system. One was the throttle and the other is for the cruise control.

[samturner]

The switch your looking at is the neutral start switch.

There is no other switch on the transmission. The throttle body controls the shift and its inside the transmission.

The lower cable on the ejection sustem is the cable thats controls shifting.

I suggest this.
Make sure you transmission fluid is clean and full. If not change it and the filter.

Make sure the throttle cable is hooked up and adjusted correctly. I doubt it could get much out of adjustment if everything is hooked up right.

What RPM does your car shift into high gear under light acceleration or do you have to let up on thr gas for it to shift.

The library has manuals. I bought a Chilton and that was not a good move. I have since bought a Haynes and its a lot better. ISBN 1 56392 311 4

[rj45lanman]

Originally Posted by samturner

The lower cable on the ejection sustem is the cable thats controls shifting.

I suggest this.
Make sure you transmission fluid is clean and full. If not change it and the filter.

Make sure the throttle cable is hooked up and adjusted correctly. I doubt it could get much out of adjustment if everything is hooked up right.

What RPM does your car shift into high gear under light acceleration or do you have to let up on thr gas for it to shift.

The lower cable? There are only two and they are next to each other.
One goes to the gas peddle and the other goes to the cruise mechanism.

I thought about changing the fluid. I would just hate doing this and then finding out that the trans needs to be removed or opened up again.

It's really an odd thing. I haven't been able to pin point the exact cause.
It happens both cold and hot. About 1/3 of the time, it'll shift fine.
Other times, I've been able to accelerate with force and then let off like I'm driving a stick and let it shift. If I let off completely around 4,000rpm, it'll shift faster and with a lot of force, the same as if there were a shift kit installed.
This happens in all gears.
Here's another issue I forgot to mention:
If I let it shift on it's own, shifting around 7k, the computer goes a little wacky. For about 5-10 minutes, I get the transaxle dummy light and the warning light of the OD/off. This would tell me that it's probably a sensor but then again, if the pressures are not correct within the trans, the sensor is picking up false information and processing this information as a fault. If this is the case, why is the Over drive turning off, or is it really off?
Should I be able to pull codes without any check engine lights or warning lights?
If I took it into the trans shop, would they test the pressures on this transmission?

[samturner]

try this link

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/09...0335Medium.jpg

the top two are gas and cruise, the bottom goes to transmission. It is disconnected and the retaining clip and block are missing, If you don't have the bottom one you should at least see where it connects.

[rj45lanman]

Thanks for the photo. I'll have to upload mine when I get home tonight.
Mine seems to be a little different. Just to clarify, I have a 2000 Cougar with a V6.
That picture looks like it's taken from the front of the vehicle. Where the right side of the picture is actually the left side of the car, correct?

If that's the case, my cables are going in the same direction but are on the other side, closer to the firewall. I’ll get the pic uploaded tonight but it’s going to be late.
Thanks a lot for all of your help, it's greatly appreciated.

[rj45lanman]

I'm just getting around to work on this car and update you with further information. I've been working doubles including this weekend and I'm finally taking a couple of days off to work on this car. I drove it for two days and came to the conclusion that I was going to replace the tranny.
I went to a trans shop Saturday morning to have the pressures checked and possibly have the fluid changed. The guy that I spoke to said that with my problem, I needed to power flush it. He told me that the filter was in the middle of the casing and that the only proper way to clean it is by power flushing it. After leaving that business, I jumped on the highway, went to pass a car and when it kicked down the 2nd, it reved up like I was in neutral. I let off the gas and it slammed back in 3rd and let me drive with no problems.
Now, every time I get on it in 2nd or 3rd, it'll start to slip.
The best price that I've found online for a used tranny is $550.
Anyone have any input on this?
Is it relatively easy to pull the engine and trans or can you just remove the trans without the engine?
I'm going to plan a weekend and try to do a tranny swap and maybe a couple of gasket changes within the engine.
I purchased a Ford DVD on Ebay this evening. The person that is selling it said that it was 100 times better then any Chilton or Haynes manual (we’ll see).

[vjb1960]

Our cougar is doing the exact same thing as yours, what finally fixed yours or is it fixed yet