Burning rubber smell.. Rears breaks..

[MSimpson]

Just replaced the rotors and breaks on the rear wheels of my 2002 Blazer.. Compared rotor and pads before changing and everything was fine.... I had some trouble putting the pads on the rotor.. They seemed to be to a bit to thick but did go on.. Now I smell the rubber burning and vehicle doesn't move as well.. Called a buddy and he said that it was normal and that the pad may take a few days to wear down a bit.. Is this true???

HELP!

[rockwood84]

did you back the caliper all the way back even with seal? sounds like you backed them back just enough to get the pads in . which will eventually wear the pads down enough to move the vehicle. but i would redo and back the calipers back enough to put the pads in with a little room to let the vehicle at least move.

[MSimpson]

The smell has gone away, but now I have a different problem.. Now the left rear wheel makes a hummming noise every once and a while.. Sometimes very soft other times very loud..But on visual inspection everythings looks great..

[rockwood84]

probably pad still rubbing rotor

[MSimpson]

Okay.. I kinda thought it would be that, but wasn't sure..

[MSimpson]

When should I start to worry about the sound??

[ericn1300]

Originally Posted by MSimpson

When should I start to worry about the sound??

I'd take a look at it soon, or keep an eye on the brake pad wear. By not resetting the caliper pistons to bottom and resetting them with the brake pedal you might get a stuck or hung piston that doesn't retract causing excessive wear and heat. Remember, noise is energy being wasted and is usualy a symptom of bigger problems

[rockwood84]

the rubber burning smell could have been the caliper seal getting burned by the heat generated by the rubbing pads. as the caliper piston moves back and forth in this seal, sometimes the seal will get old and get hard causing the seal to stick on the piston and keep it from moving smoothly. if you have a loud grinding or rubbing sound then you could be damaging the rotor or see brake fluid leaking then you could have a blown seal . but always back the caliper all the way back then the pads will go in with room to spare and work freely . if you have trouble getting the pads in with the calipers backed all the way to the seal then there is something wrong with pads. if you can't back the calipers back even with the seal the some thing is wrong with the seal or piston and you can buy both just like buying the pads.the pads rubbing generate alot of heat and will melt anything rubber or plastic around them or close to them.

[MSimpson]

Here is the whole story.. I started to hear a poping noise whenever I would hit my breaks but only on the left side rear. I had someone look at it and they suggested getting new rotors and breaks.. During the install process I couldn't get the caliper and pads to go back over the rotor very well.. I had to use force to get them back over.. For the first few days I could smell rubber burning which I just assumed that was from the rotor and the pad rubbing. Now the burning is gone and sometimes I hear this humming noise.. Not all the time just some of the time.. The break peddle works fine as well as breaking, but the noise kind of scares me.

[MSimpson]

Originally Posted by rockwood84

the rubber burning smell could have been the caliper seal getting burned by the heat generated by the rubbing pads. as the caliper piston moves back and forth in this seal, sometimes the seal will get old and get hard causing the seal to stick on the piston and keep it from moving smoothly. if you have a loud grinding or rubbing sound then you could be damaging the rotor or see brake fluid leaking then you could have a blown seal . but always back the caliper all the way back then the pads will go in with room to spare and work freely . if you have trouble getting the pads in with the calipers backed all the way to the seal then there is something wrong with pads. if you can't back the calipers back even with the seal the some thing is wrong with the seal or piston and you can buy both just like buying the pads.the pads rubbing generate alot of heat and will melt anything rubber or plastic around them or close to them.

I took off the wheel tonight and the rotor looked fine.. No damage.. and I don't have any break fluid leaking.

[G.A.S.]

Jack up the rear, start the vehical and apply the break.
have someone help you with this. while you are holding the break have your helper try and spinn the wheel. Of course he shouldnt be able to. Now have him try and spinn the wheel, hold pressure, and you let off the break.
should spinn freely.
If not, I say caliper is sticking or slider assembly is frozen or draging.

[MSimpson]

Sunday I will have to do that and give a better visual inspection.. Thanks

[old_master]

With the burning going on, you might want to look at the pads closely for cracks. If they're cracked, replace them. VERY common problem with rear disc on S/T body vehicles is: The rubber boots that seal the guide pins dry rot which allows the grease out and dirt and moisture in. The moisture turns to rust and the guide pins will seize to the inside of the bores in the bracket. When this happens, the caliper cannot slide easily and as a result the pads are left to drag on the rotor building up heat and wearing the pads too rapidly. Most auto parts stores have the complete remanufactured assembly available. Caliper, pads, hardware, boots, and the bracket. Bolt in on and bleed...no more headaches. At the bare minimum the guide pins and bores should be cleaned and new boot kits installed, along with a good synthetic lube in the bores. Over time and miles, the caliper pistons bind in the bores of the calipers and will not retract completely when releasing the brakes, that also will cause the pads to wear rapidly.