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#1
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Okay heres my story, i got a new fuel filter took everything out to install it (Battery, washer fluid resevior ,brackets and what not, and the intake tube) and i was wrenching away at the bottom bolt to remove the line from the filter(knuckes scraping against rusted metal the whole time)and brought my wrench up ,i was leaning on the waxed corner panel, slipped and almost smacked my skull on teh hood and my hand/wrench goes into the release fork boot and that little assembly moves, nothing there was damaged but i went into my car after everything was done(AND all together again) and i step on the clutch, start the car and... the clutch stuck to teh floor, theres a little boot where the metal rod connected to the pedal passes through to the engine bay and there was fluid leaking from there, i wiped it all up and pushed the clutch a bunch of times and nothing else came out, and the master cylinder lost a little fluid i dont have the daylight to do it today(im not lucky enough to own a garage) but tomorrow im going to bleed the system, im just wondering if anyone knows what happened and if bleeding it is the right thing to do
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~Erik the red~ |
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#2
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Re: I'm and Idiot (Clutch Problems)
If fluid is coming out of that boot connected to the clutch pedal atatched to the firewall, then you have a leaky master cylinder and need to replace or rebuild it. I would reccommend rebuilding it cause it's very very easy to do and much cheaper... you really cant screw it up.
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![]() ![]() Current mods: Cold air intake Magnecor 8.5mm competition wires NGK copper spark plugs Polished Plenum KillerGlass radiator hose |
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#3
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Re: I'm and Idiot (Clutch Problems)
^yup. fluid leaking out of the boot near the clutch pedal indicates a leaky clutch master cylinder. now keep in mind, your little accident of colliding with the clutch slave cylinder probably had nothing to do with the leaking clutch master. the clutch master has probably had a very slow leak for a while. it was just now that you crawled under the dash and noticed the fluid.
but rebuilding is definitely the way to go. you can get rebuild kits for the clutch slave and master for less than $10 each. autozone and o'reillys carry these. you may have to search a bit, but you'll find one. the rebuild process is very simple, as you basically just replace a rubber lined piston. the difficult part is removing the clutch master cylinder. its a bit of a pain in the ass to remove, but if you have any questions, ask and we'll be happy to help. oh, and use a line wrench, or even better crows foot flare wrench, to remove the clutch hard line from the master cylinder. pics of my clutch master rebuild. NOTE: not necessary to remove the brake master cylinder. i did it the hard way.
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93 3000GT base K&N | long tube headers | 3sx crank pulley| testpipe | Addco front/rear sway bars (3SX) | rear strut bar & front 3-point strut bar (by JonVr4 on 3Si) | solid motor mounts | LSD insert | KYB GR-2 struts | intrax springs | adj. control arms | ss brake lines | 16% taller 5th gear (teamrip.com) | H4 conversion | push-button start | datalogger | HKS S-AFR | PLX WB O2 coming soon: adj. cam gears | bi-xenon HID retrofit |
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#4
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Re: I'm and Idiot (Clutch Problems)
everyone here at automotive forums are amazing. every time i needed help i got it
THANK YOU!
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~Erik the red~ |
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#5
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Re: I'm and Idiot (Clutch Problems)
if you wanna bay a brand new master cyl. i have one still in the box
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'93 3000gt VR-4
170k, 27k on JDM motor MBC @ 14.5 psi Datalogger Intake T-Pros Downpipe Gutted Pre Cats Mods to come: Upgraded Fuel System and 75 shot of Nitrous, Full Exhaust and hopefully 15Gs Audio Sony Deck Eclipse 6x8 2 ways in the back Clarion Kevlar cone Component System in the front 2 Alpine Type S 10 inch DVc Subs 1 Audiobahn 10 inch DVC D Jones Series One 800 Watt Jensen amp and a soundstream 300 watt 4 ch to the speakers And still under 4000 lbs w/ me in the car ![]() |
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