1996 Park Avenue Loses Power While Running

[jchriscoe]

I have a 1996 Buick Park Avenue that has started giving me problems that I suspect may be in my computer. It started out as occasionally when trying to crank the car nothing would happen. If I let it sit for about 20 seconds or so then it would crank. It has now progressed to shutting down while driving. And when I say shutting down while driving I don't mean just the engine shutting down, I mean all electrical and the engine shutting down. The only power indication I got was the little red LED's near the gages were slowly blinking on and off. After the car sat for about 5 minutes or so it cranked up and ran fine the test of the way home (about 15 miles or so). I haven't driven it anymore but have been out and cranked it up several times to see if it has a problem.

I have checked all my connections around the battery, replaced the battery (It was about time for this anyway), and verified that the ground is good with an ohm's meter. The problem is still happening.

Any help with this would be appreciated.

[HotZ28]

Well, welcome to the world of “GM” electrical Gremlins! I will assume that you removed the battery positive terminals from within the red insulator and cleaned both sides of the terminals, along with the spacer between the two. If so, and you found corrosion, your original problem could have been arching on the positive side. Now, if everything is clean & tight, check your battery voltage with the car running @ 1000 rpm, you should have 13.8-14.4 volts, with all accessories off. Power surges play havoc with the PCM, especially the OBDII (96-up)! You could very well have a damaged PCM now.

BTW, if it is the PCM, don't pay the dealer price to replace it! ($400-$500)
Send me a PM, and I will point you in the right direction on PCM replacement.

[jchriscoe]

Thanks for the reply. It was corrosion on the negative lead. So far no other symptons are present.

Originally Posted by HotZ28

Well, welcome to the world of “GM” electrical Gremlins! I will assume that you removed the battery positive terminals from within the red insulator and cleaned both sides of the terminals, along with the spacer between the two. If so, and you found corrosion, your original problem could have been arching on the positive side. Now, if everything is clean & tight, check your battery voltage with the car running @ 1000 rpm, you should have 13.8-14.4 volts, with all accessories off. Power surges play havoc with the PCM, especially the OBDII (96-up)! You could very well have a damaged PCM now.

BTW, if it is the PCM, don't pay the dealer price to replace it! ($400-$500)
Send me a PM, and I will point you in the right direction on PCM replacement.

[Nevee1]

I'm having the same exact problem with my 97 PA

[HotZ28]

Welcome to AF! So do you have a question or, do you just want us to know that your; "having the exact same problem with your 97 PA"?