might be just another abs trac light thread

[justav6]

back again. after having the hubs replaced with rotors for almost a grand, symptoms were better but not perfect and still abs trac light. symptoms started coming back graduually. now its worse than before hub replacement. i checked the hubs and they seem ok this time. symtoms in addition to lights are. wobbly feeling like the hub problem, gets bad at 50 and above, worse while accelerating and awful while braking. while braking from highway speed the steering wheel shakes prett bad. there is also a bit of a grinding sound while braking or turning. i tried the turning the wheel while parked thing and i do hear a bit of a clunk. does this sound like a cv joint problem? i guess i should take it somewhere with a good abs scanner reguardless, but could this set the abs tcs lights? finally would most shops have a good abs scanner or should i just take it to a dealer? apparently the last place i brought it to had a junk scanner since no one here ever heard of those codes before. what a headache. i appreciate everyones help. yet again

[richtazz]

FIrst off... a few questions.

What brand hubs did you install?
Did they use an impact wrench on the axle nut?
Did they torque the axle nut to spec with a hand torque wrench?

IF they installed cheapo "white box" chinese made hubs, they may still be teh issue.

IF they used an impact wrench and/or didn't torque the axle nut to the specified torque value, the hubs could still be the issue, as the hammering action ruins the abs sensor and the torque pre-loads the bearing assembly and helps hold it together.

[justav6]

pretty sure they were cheap hubs, because the rotors and pads were done whit the new hubs. pads seem cheap, dont stop good. not sure how the hubs were installed. im just thinking i should be able to tell if its the hubs because the ride feels worse than before they were replaced, and i could move the wheel almost an inch before. they feel pretty solid.

[justav6]

turns out to be the ebtcm itself. wow is that expensive. can someone tell me where its located. i think ill try a junkyard before i cough up all that cash to the dealer.

[davechase]

Hope I'm not too late. Go to www.modulemasters.com. They will rebuild your EBCM for $150 bucks. You can take it off the car and STILL DRIVE IT. You just won't have anti-lock. Call them first at the number on the webpage. Beats paying 900 bucks for anew one.

Dave

[davechase]

Eeek! Sorry, it's modulemaster, not modulemasters.com

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by davechase

Hope I'm not too late. Go to www.modulemasters.com. They will rebuild your EBCM for $150 bucks. You can take it off the car and STILL DRIVE IT. You just won't have anti-lock. Call them first at the number on the webpage. Beats paying 900 bucks for anew one.

Dave

Sounds like you are too late. See link below. Also, not always the case with removing the EBTCM module and still driving the car.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=738376

Originally Posted by modulemaster.com

Remove the Module

Most people have reported successful removal of the ABS controller without disconnection of the brake lines. However, you may have to disconnect all five (5) hydraulic lines for success if the roads are salted and the Torx T20 bolts are rusted in place. In such circumstance, it is best to remove the entire ABS assembly from the truck for easier removal of the ABS controller by drilling out the bolt heads.

There is very little room to access these four bolts under the truck in such stubborn cases. It is suggested that you disconnect the lines and remove the entire assembly. Take the assembly to a workbench or drill press to drill/grind the heads off of the bolts. If this sounds too ugly and disconnecting the five brake lines will ruin your day; you can instead remove the three hex head bolts attaching the ABS pump/manifold to the vehicle frame and CAREFULLY lower it. You must support the heavy pump assembly so you don't kink the brake lines. Then you will have room to get a small grinder or Dremel Tool to grind the heads off of the evil rusted bolts.

Be sure to order the EBCM Repair Kit to replace rusted or stripped out Torx ABS module bolts

Removal of any of the brake lines will require bleeding of the brakes upon re-installation. Your vehicle is probably overdue for a brake fluid flush anyways. Brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water) and the water molecules will congregate in the lowest parts of the brake system eventually corroding critical brake components. Modern vehicles should have their brake fluid flushed on a regular basis; so you are providing your vehicle a much needed service in the process of this repair.

Also, $150 sounds a bit much for a rebuilt unit. There are other options and I don't believe the OP spent that much.