1994 Escort LX "A/C PROBLEM"

[pdallard]

Ok, I converted my 1994 Escort LX over from R-12. I put in the 134-A and the pressure gauge maxed and stayed on 45 psi but still no cold air.

My compressor is cutting on but only in 3-4 second intervals. I can hear it clicking on by the two switches on my firewall. Sounds like the second one on the right. I am assuming these are relay switches of some sort. The good news is my compresor is working but is being cut short by an electrical problem I hope. Another note is that when I fill the service port and remove the cap all the freon blows out and I have to be really quick to put the port cap back on, "IS THIS NORMAL"?

Are the switches on my firewall the problem and if so are they fairly easy to replace. I have included two photos and any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.......

Paul


http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/3/3/3...64769430_o.jpg

http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/3/3/3...64769439_o.jpg

[mightymoose_22]

I don't believe that is normal at all. Just like removing a pump from a bicycle tire, the valve should close right away.
Sounds like you may not be getting cold air because the refrigerant you just put in may have leaked right back out.

[Davescort97]

MightyMoose22 is right. It shouldn't blow out. Recheck the R-134a conversion for that fitting. Maybe the valve isn't fully seated in the fitting, hence refrigerant leaking out. Take the fitting back out and clean all surfaces with a Q-tip wetted with any kind of oil to pick up any debris keeping the valve from closing.

[pdallard]

Thanks for the advice- I used a different service fitting and all's well as far as the freon comming out. Ok, with that said, I still don't have cold air. My compressor clicks on but only for a second, cuts off then clicks on again in about 20 second intervals. This don't sound right, it should stay on for a few minutes anyway right? The blower is working fine, the fuse under the hood is good and I guess the best thing is the compressor is not froze up.

Is not having cold air due to a switch on my firewall or are there other issues I could repair myself.

Thanks again for all the help

Paul

[Davescort97]

One of the relays on the firewall is for the A/C clutch and one is for the wide open throttle. Don't think either are bad. Check the clutch cycling pressure
switch. It turns the compressor on at 45 PSI and above. It disconnects the compressor at 24.5 and lower. If your freon charge is correct it should work properly. You can check the switch by disconnecting the wire harness on the reciever/dryer and jumping the two wires with a paper clip. If the pressures are right and the compressor stays on it is a bad cycling switch.
If the compressor doesn't come on with the cycling switch jumped it is a bad A/C relay on the firewall. The A/C relay has a dark blue and yellow color for one wire and a dark green and black color for the other wire. You need 3 things working right to get the A/C to come on and stay on. 1. proper freon charge 2. cycling switch working 3. A/C relay working. Check it out. You can do it.

[carlos80]

I'd start by checking the pressures both high and low. The jumping the cycling switch is a good idea just don't forget to once again monitor the pressures. You said you retrofitted your system how did you go about it, did you evacuate your system and add PAG oil?

[pdallard]

Thanks for the replies;

I actually jumped the gun when I bought the car as the previous owner said it needed freon and thats why I’m on this subject. I bought the kit to convert to the R-134a and suddenly found it had already been converted. LOL, a 45.00 mistake...So the R-12 was removed professionally I would guess, I hope...

The high end pressure goes beyond 45 psi, or the yellow on the gauge that came with the kit which is a warning sign. As for the wire harness on the reciever/dryer hook-up, can you tell me what it looks like. I think I know where it is I a just wanna be sure. It’s black, round and has a hook-up above it right near the firewall right.

Can anyone supply a photo of what this would look like...Jumping the wire harness on the reciever/dryer and jumping the two wires with a paper clip.

Love this little car and glad I bought it, just don’t know a lot about it right now. We’re gaining on it though..............

Thanks again for all the input and help,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Paul

[mightymoose_22]

I thought that when I first read your post... I know my 94 Escort came from the factory with 134a... I had thought all of them did. SO no worries on the conversion then.

As for what the jumper will look like, all you will do is unplug the wires from the switch and then use a jumper wire or paper clip to connect the two pins on the wiring harness... it iwll lok somewhat like putting the two ends of the jumper wire into the slots of an electrical socket (you will be jumping the wires on the harness, not the pins on the switch... effectively taking the cycling switch out of the loop).

The cycling switch is on top of the accumulator, which is a vertical cylinder shape in the area of the oil filter. The switch is located on top.

[Selectron]

And here are some diagrams - these are for the '95 but hopefully will be similar to your '94.

Fig.1: Removing connector from the cycling switch
Fig.2: General view of the accumulator/drier in situ - the 1.8L and 1.9L mounting arrangements differ slightly so this view may not be identical to yours
Fig.3: 1.8L accumulator/drier
Fig.4: 1.9L accumulator/drier

Fig.1 Fig.2 Fig.3 Fig.4

[carlos80]

If it does turn out to be the switch you can replace it without having to remove(recover) the freon from the system. the part that it screws on to has a shradder valve(like a tire air valve) just remember to replace the o-ring to prevent leaks once installed.

[pdallard]

You guys are great; Thanks for all the input & support...Gonna try the paper clip test tomorrow and see if thats the problem or hopefully it will work. If it does work I'll replace the proper switch and the o-rings as well, but thats another task/subject, etc...

Been a really hot summer............Whewwww....

Great site everyone and thanks again!!!

Paul

[pdallard]

Originally Posted by Selectron

And here are some diagrams - these are for the '95 but hopefully will be similar to your '94.

Fig.1: Removing connector from the cycling switch
Fig.2: General view of the accumulator/drier in situ - the 1.8L and 1.9L mounting arrangements differ slightly so this view may not be identical to yours
Fig.3: 1.8L accumulator/drier
Fig.4: 1.9L accumulator/drier

Fig.1 Fig.2 Fig.3 Fig.4

Thanks for the diagrams...They really will come in handy!!!

Paul

[12Ounce]

Be careful using jumpers .. the switches are there for the protection and proper operation of the system.

In reading gauges on the suction side of the pump ... don't forget, it's the lowest reading that you are looking for. Is that value over 45 psi? If not, you may need more refrigerant.

[mightymoose_22]

If you use a paper clip... don't forget there is electricity going through that thing... find something to hold it with so you don't zap yourself... you can use a wad of electric tape to make somewhat of a handle on it.