won't start clicking noise fix with pics

[fishes]

OK
My 1994 XE manual trans had the common starting problem. I would turn the key and it made a clicking noise but wouldn't turn over. I'd turn the key a few times and then it would catch and run fine. I tested the battery and alternator, both fine. I cleaned all the corrosion off the battery and replaced the corroded negative terminal, but this didn't help. I was about to replace the starter, but then I realized I was too lazy to do that.

[A]So I replaced the interlock relay and it helped for a while but it started doing it again. that writeup is below.

[B.]so next i reread Mr Reverse's thread and rewired the relay directly to the battery (like he said from the beginning and i misunderstood) and that didn't help either.

[C]So finally i changed the ignition switch (key lock assembly in steering column) for a new one, and now it is PERFECT!!!!! HOORAY!!! that writeup is coming soon.

Disclaimers:
This fix is for manual trans.
Thanks to Mr Reverse at 4x4parts.com forum and his auto trans fix:
http://65.166.200.170/ubbthreads/sho...=&fpart=1&vc=1
If something goes wrong, you can't sue me.

Good luck.

[A] New Relay:

1
go to radio shack and get a 12 volt 30 amp automotive relay, 14 guage wire, 12 guage wire, wire connectors, wire cutter/stripper tool, and electrical tape.



splice about 6 inches of wire onto each connector on the relay. use the thin wire on the electromagnet terminals (85 and 86), the thick wire on the switch terminals (87 and 30).

2
locate the old interlock relay. it is a blue plastic box on the side of the engine compartment right behind the battery. mine was burned by acid from the battery. pull the relay down, off its mounting bracket. it helps to remove the battery or at least move it over so you have some room to work.



before you cut anything, you may want to test the new relay to make sure this works for you. who knows, it really could be your starter. to test it, pull the grey connectors out of the bottom of the relay. stick some wire in the connectors and connect them to the new relay. be sure to use thick wire on the switch side of the relay. start the pathy. if it starts, this is the fix for you. (EDIT:or maybe f-ing not. i did all this and still ended up changing the ignition switch)

cut the wires that run to the relay. be sure to leave enough wire sticking out of the wire harness so you can splice new wire onto it. then remove the mounting bracket.



3
splice the new relay in. thick wires to thick wires, thin wires to thin wires. it is just a magnet and a switch, so polarity does not matter.



4 tape it all up. secure it to the side of the engine compartment with a screw from the mounting bracket into one of the old holes. turn the key and the engine should start.




__________________________________________________ __

[.B]:Connect interlock-RELAY directly to battery:

terms:
IGNITION Switch is where you turn the key by the steering wheel
RELAY-Switch is inside the Interlock-Relay, between terminals 87 and 30, that is closed to power the starter solenoid
Interlock-RELAY is the thing by the battery that i replaced above
(i later found out it is called the "interlock relay" - it makes sure the clutch is depressed, and twice sure the key is turned)

theory:
juice goes from (+) battery -> to ignition switch -> to interlock relay -> to starter



the wiring at the ignition switch is corroded or something
so get juice directly from the battery to the relay to the starter
and skip the ignition switch
and only use the ignition switch for activating the relay.




1. Figure out which wire is which on the relay.
since i had already replaced the relay, i don't know what number it originally was hooked to
so to find which wire was which
a)i put the car in neutral!!!
b)put the key in the ignition to "on"
c)disconnected the thick relay wires (87 & 30)
d)touched the wires from the relay (one at a time) directly to the (+) battery terminal
e)when the starter cranked, i knew that wire went to the starter
f) label it!

2. bypass to battery.
hook that wire you just labeled back up to the interlock relay on # 87
(theory: ok, could go 87 or 30, just not on magnet 85,86)
b)hook up a thick wire directly between the battery
(i used 4 guage cuz i had it, i hear 10 guage is fine).
c)and the other end to interlock relay switch terminal 30.
d) the thick wire that you just replaced with the wire from the battery:
tape it up and tuck it in and tape it down.
e) finish beer

________________________________________________


[C] Replace Ignition SWITCH (the thing in the steering column you turn the key in)

theory:
there is some wiring in the ignition switch on the key side
my theory:
maybe a kill switch so you can't just hammer a screwdriver in there and turn it with a wrench
the key has to fit well
but
the ignition switch is old and contacts are worn out
key is loose, contacts don't "contact"
so replacing just the "switch" part ($45) won't work - that only requires that the key turn
and i THINK that having it rekeyed won't help - it turns fine (rekey $100 at the locksmith)
so must replace the whole assembly - (over $100 for the new OE Beck Arnley assembly - insert cuss word here)


How To:
according to chilton, need to remove steering wheel
i did it with steering wheel on, and had no problems

1
disconnect neg battery wire
don't know why, chilton said so, anybody? no airbag, so, why?

2 remove steering column cover
a) GENTLY unscrew 6 screws under the cover
b) GENTLY catch bottom half as it falls
c) GENTLY remove top half
(i was kinda rough and broke a lot of places where the wood screws fit into the 15 year old brittle plastic
used a bunch of washers and bolts etc to put it back together
unless you might want to buy her, then nothing broke just kidding)

3
remove turn signal assembly
a) remove 2 screws on side of assembly
othewise you could end up drilling up the signal wiring connector
(theoretically, i didn't of course)



4
remove all the wiring and tuck it out of the way

5
drill out the old ignition switch
two screws with heads sheared off must be drilled out
read somewhere you can use a 1/8" bit then a broken screw remover
i didn't have a remover, so i used a BIG bit and broke my back and it was ugly and messy
and turns out the screws were in there super loose - should have gone to buy the broken screw remover


6
put in new assembly and put it all back together

now it starts perfectly
first time - every time
and the key fits smooth and tight
(say it with me: smooth and tight)
no key jiggling
no praying
no sacrificing chickens
seriously
i was running out of chickens

next -
rekeying the door locks to use the same key
(i think i could have ordered the ignition switch to match my old key
but i didn't know then
and i can't return it after it is installed
so insert favorite cuss word here)

[rus-El]

I just bought a 1988 Pathfinder that I'm happy about, except that a week after I bought it, something like this has happened. I hope to write long, wonderful stories about how I've tricked it out, and read and reply in kind to yours. But right now, I've got to get this thing running. This pointed me in the right direction, but my situation has an added twist.

When I turn the crank, either the 15A fuse to the ECCS blows, and/or the fusable link between the positive terminal on the battery and the starter relay (or the ECCS, I'm not sure). Is this the same thing, or do I have a short somewhere?
Of course, the friend I bought it off of never had this problem in the two years he drove it.

Any help would be welcome, as I can't really afford to take it to a mechanic (I just bought the dang thing).

Thanks. I'll take the Pathy less traveled.

[rus-El]

Fixed it. It was a bald wire down by the starter that was causing the fuse to blow, AND a dead spot in the starter that was fixed with the ol' hammer to the starter trick.

I still need a new starter, but at least I can wait a little while for that.

Now for the good postings!

[hunter5000]

My son's 2004 Pathfinder 4x4 w auto trans is giving one click when the key turns. I replaced the over-4-year-old battery and that helps some, but just in case, besides replacing the starter relay, does anyone know the procedure for starter replacement. It looks like it could get messy...err, beyond my trifling patience when it comes to working in tight confined spaces during cold weather...Any advice?

[fishes]

2 things
first, hunter5000, i don't know if the relay thing works on the newer pathys. 04 still under warranty?

second, my car is doing the clicking thing again. the relay thing worked for a while (i guess it sent enough extra current to fix it for a while).
i guess i'll clean the starter solenoid connections next, if it still clicks, i'll open up the steering wheel and check the ignition contacts.

could be fun

edit:
had to replace ignition switch. that fixed it. been over a year and still starts perfect.

[nissan_240sx]

Nice write up, I'll show it to my friend. +1

-Matt

[fishes]

also
the wire colors on those diagrams are correct for a 94 path

[joeylea]

Originally Posted by fishes

OK
My 1994 XE manual trans had the common starting problem. I would turn the key and it made a clicking noise but wouldn't turn over. I'd turn the key a few times and then it would catch and run fine. I tested the battery and alternator, both fine. I cleaned all the corrosion off the battery and replaced the corroded negative terminal, but this didn't help. I was about to replace the starter, but then I realized I was too lazy to do that.

Ok... now I know this is an old post , but I have a few questions and I'm hoping someone cant help. When I read this thread it was like reading my own situation with my 1994 XE manual trans Pathfinder.
I wiggle key, makes clicking noise ... keep wiggleing (& praying) finally awww it starts. I took it to a local mechanic,(because one day no matter how much I wiggled it just wouldn't start) turns out it's not my starter, not battery, not alternator... well you know the story. He tell's me it's the ignition switch... a $380.00+ job. Meanwhile he took apart steering colum and it turns out he finds that the cables inside are all loose, he tightend everything up,charged me $75.00 labor fee and sent me on my way.. car was WONDERFUL again... FOR TWO WEEKS!! It seems like when car is in direct sunlight (hot) it has a harder time... anyways what I would like to do is buy the parts: Key lock assembly, etc. I figure buying the parts myself and just paying someone the labor to fix it.
(if I was a man I'd do it myself )
Any takers out there??
My question
1. what parts exactly do I need
2. & can I buy these parts at my local pep boys, auto zone etc
or do I need to get from dealer.
and #3. Is $380.00+ (parts labor) sound about right for this work to be done!?

Help advise is greatly needed...
Fishes are you there???

[fishes]

Joeylea

I rewrote this article, slightly better, on my website:
http://garage.hotzat.com/PathIgnition.aspx
I also included how to rekey the rest of the locks to match the new ignition.

I got the parts at rockauto:
BECK/ARNLEY Part # 2011585
Key, Lock And Ignition Switch Assembly, Manual Transmission;
1 Per Car
$120.79
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1211982

I suggest you do it your self. Drilling out the old bolts are the biggest pain, but all you need is a drill.
And I think if you call rockauto, they will work with you to get the ignition to match your old key. They are pretty good. I have been very happy with their parts and service. They do not give me freebies to say that, but HEY ROCKAUTO, MAYBE YOU SHOULD, I NEED A FUEL PUMP!

Last, if they replace the ENTIRE LOCK ASSEMBLY - $120.00
and not just the switch - $32.00
then $380 is fine - IF THEY GUARANTEE, IN WRITING, THAT THEY FIX THE PROBLEM, not just replace whatever parts.

Good luck

Fishes

[joeylea]

thanks for your reply fish, however doing the job myself is not gonna happen...
i might break a nail

want to add.... this morning i just happend to look at the fuse box, and I noticed a little wire attached to 15a and another on 10, is this normal? It's like (I'm guessing) it' being bypassed.
my other cars never had any wires attached to a fuse???

[fishes]

Originally Posted by joeylea

thanks for your reply fish, however doing the job myself is not gonna happen...
i might break a nail

want to add.... this morning i just happend to look at the fuse box, and I noticed a little wire attached to 15a and another on 10, is this normal? It's like (I'm guessing) it' being bypassed.
my other cars never had any wires attached to a fuse???

Joey

That is bizarre. Never f with the fuses.
This is the fuse box under the drivers' dash? I am guessing that your cover has a label of all the fuse functions like mine does. Just curious - Which fuses? Pic?

But always remember the most important thing: Take care of your nails.

Fishes

[fishes]

Joey

I meant no insult with the "save the nails" comment.

Also, if the entire ignition assembly seems to wiggle around in the steering column, it is possible that those bolts are very loose, and you wouldn't need to drill them out, just unscrew them using a needle nose pliers or something.

Just a thought.

fishes

[joeylea]

Fishes,
no insult taken! LOL..
No, nothing is loose in the steering colum, (you mean where I stick the key in, right?) So let me tell you this, When I leave for work in the morning it starts fine, 8hrs later to go home... it's starts fine. If I stop at the store on the way home and try to start it it dosnt. I heard clicking noises comming from the relays next to the battery, I kept trying to wiggle key but no start...So I got a long pole and hit the starter a few times, then it finally started. But this confuses me cus the mechanic told me that its not the starter. So it seems to me it has problems starting only when it's hot.
Doesn't this sound like a starter problem to you??

[joeylea]

So guess what???
I took my pathy to a shop "Dautsun Alley" awsome! He knew what to do!
He replaced my starter along with the relay and guess what!!?
ALL BETTER!!!