96 Accord EX-Disc and rotor removal W Pics

[papichuloy2k]

Here is the link to the write up. It shows how to remove those stubborn discs-rotors from your accord. Is my first write-up but I hope you'll find it helpful.


Disclaimer: I am a Honda enthusiast and a DIY mechanic. I am providing this write-up with pictures as a courtesy to the AF members, and any other DIY Honda enthusiast. AF moderators and AF members have always answered my questions in a timely fashion thus providing and assisting me with my projects. Now, it’s time for me to contribute to those like me that need visual aids to finish those projects. Again, I am NOT RESPONSIBLE in any way if you use this write-up. If in doubt, post your questions before you tackle any job/project, and ALWAYS practice SAFETY first. Use
your Personal Protective Equipment (gloves, safety goggles, etc) when working in any project. Now, go to work.

Torque specs: Ft-lbs.
Hub nut 134
Caliper mounting nuts 54
Caliper mounting backets bolts 80
Steering knuckle to hub bolts 33
Hub-to-disc bolts 40

This is the bad boy, a 96 Honda EX-VTEC, two doors with 185,000 miles.


Proceed to loose the 36 mm and the lug nuts when the wheels are on the ground., and then jack up the car.





After removing the whee, you have to loose these four bolts. I managed to use the floor jack handle to secure the wheel-hub while I loosen the four bolts.



You have two bolts in the back of the caliper that holds it. To remove these two bolts, you will need a breaker bar. Mine didn't do it, so I improvised with a piece pipe.



Make sure you secure the caliper with a wire hanger or something to avoid any unnecessary strain in the brake line. This is the look of the rotor without the caliper in place.


Then, there are four more bolts that hold the hub, the disc and the knuckle. They are the closest to the drive shaft splines. To loose these bolts, you will have to move the steering to one side and loose two bolts. Then, steer to the other side to remove the remaining two. Be careful and do not damage the splines of the drive-shaft. One more thing, you have to push the drive shaft from the front in order to make more room in the back. DO NOT DAMAGE the CV boot.

I am loosening those two bolts first.

Now, I moved the knuckle to the other side.

Upon loosening those four bolts, I use W40 again to remove the rotor. One rotor came off easy, but I had to work a little harder to remove the other one.

The hub-disc assembly will come off, and you have to spin the disc to find the opening to slide the disc away from the hub.

Here are the two pieces pulled apart.


Do not forget to protect the drive shaft as you leave it in there. Put some rags, or something around it. To install, reverse the procedures. I hope this write up will comes in handy to you. NOTE: Handle with care the CV because if you let it hang on his own, the bearings inside will dislodge or something and you will have to replace the drive shaft. I just found out and mine have to replace it.

[papichuloy2k]

Done!

[jeffcoslacker]

Cool! Thanks. The inner joint is the one that falls apart if you extend it. Inside it's just three rollers on a spider that ride in grooves in the other side....when you pull it outward, they come out of their grooves and fall off the spider.

Sometimes if you are really talented, you can get a hold of them by squeezing the boot and doing it by feel, put a roller back on each leg of the spider and push the whole assembly back together with the rollers in the grooves on the the other side...or you can cut the bands off, fix it with the boot pulled back out of the way, and put new clamps on. They cost about $2 each and there is a really simple tool you can rent at Autozone for crimping them.

At the age and mileage, a new shaft is probably not a bad idea for you though...